`
OldMiniBikes.com Home Page Vintage Mini Bike Forum Vintage Mini Bike Pictures
Register Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   OldMiniBikes.com Forum > General > Engines and Modifications > Briggs & Stratton Engines

Become a Supporting Member of OldMiniBikes.com today and enjoy less advertisements, unlimited photo hosting, and many other benefits listed on this page. Supporting Memberships help pay for bandwidth costs, software upgrades and the time that goes into this site.





Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-29-2009, 04:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California
Posts: 2,411
iTrader: (12)
That's how recieved it .

From what I read, the connectors contained the correct diodes for the electrical systems.

Last edited by 5 Horse Fan; 03-29-2009 at 04:17 AM.
5 Horse Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2009, 12:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Jay Wrix's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Houghton/ Allen Park Michigan
Posts: 868
iTrader: (2)
Military makes sense too, Haha, Nice looking motors
Jay Wrix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2009, 03:43 AM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
FordGalaxy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Mountlake Terrace
Posts: 207
iTrader: (0)
Hey 5 horse

the 2 long blocks I ordered finally got here, one has a dent in the shroud but they look pretty good. Tracked down some more info on the alternators in these things 1.5 amp dc only. check the chart here Briggs and Stratton Alternator Briggs & Stratton Charging Specifications

C and D have the same part #. These are D the alternator is no longer made but the end with the connecter and diode is still available.

the pn# for the alternator is 494254 the older 2 wire
:arcadefreak:
FordGalaxy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2010, 05:10 PM   #14 (permalink)
 
roccosbike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mundelein,IL
Posts: 3,932
iTrader: (53)
Hi, Ive been researching this and the two wires from the stator connect to a diode assembly part#394251 and a socket wire assembly part#692306 hope this helps.

Rocco

Last edited by roccosbike; 10-20-2010 at 05:13 PM. Reason: word correction
roccosbike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2010, 07:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California
Posts: 2,411
iTrader: (12)
Yeah, I was doing research on this also.
From what the service manual says, two alternator wires means (1) 1.5 amp 12v lead & (1) 14vac lead for a headlight.

The weird thing is, is that the manual says they never made a two wire alternator for the briggs 5hp......

I took my multi-meter to it and I only got a reading when putting the leads on both wires.
I got nothing with one lead on a wire and one to ground, but then again I was spinning the flywheel by hand.
Possibly not fast enough.
5 Horse Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2010, 08:37 PM   #16 (permalink)
 
roccosbike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mundelein,IL
Posts: 3,932
iTrader: (53)
I used a test light. Put the alligator clip on one wire, stuck the probe on the other with the engine running and it lighted right up.I think the diode keeps
reverse flow of electricity from happening.Although im not sure about that.I am still trying to find out how to regulate it before the battery.

rocco

Last edited by roccosbike; 10-21-2010 at 12:01 PM.
roccosbike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 07:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
MikeBear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,330
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by roccosbike View Post
I used a test light. Put the alligator clip on one wire, stuck the probe on the other with the engine running and it lighted right up.I think the diode keeps
reverse flow of electricity from happening.Although im not sure about that.I am still trying to find out how to regulate it before the battery.

rocco
You need the diode to charge a battery. NO battery, then you don't need the diode... All it does, is change the AC to 1/2 wave DC, and allow the current to go FROM the engine, to the battery. These engines don't put out enough current to even need a regulator. If you don't have a diode, the battery would self-discharge through the alternator coil when the engine wasn't running. Then, your battery would be dead all the time... You can use a Radio Shack silicon diode, and you don't need a very big or expensive one either.
MikeBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 04:24 PM   #18 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: north dakota
Posts: 2,587
iTrader: (24)
i got one of the connectors off a light coil for a briggs ill see if i can dig it up and get the number of the diode in the plug its like a $2 part .
metal man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 07:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California
Posts: 2,411
iTrader: (12)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeBear View Post
You need the diode to charge a battery. NO battery, then you don't need the diode... All it does, is change the AC to 1/2 wave DC, and allow the current to go FROM the engine, to the battery. These engines don't put out enough current to even need a regulator. If you don't have a diode, the battery would self-discharge through the alternator coil when the engine wasn't running. Then, your battery would be dead all the time... You can use a Radio Shack silicon diode, and you don't need a very big or expensive one either.
Thanks for the info !!!!!

Are there numbers on diodes I should look for???
5 Horse Fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2010, 08:11 PM   #20 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
MikeBear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,330
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5 Horse Fan View Post
Thanks for the info !!!!!

Are there numbers on diodes I should look for???
This will work perfectly. There's multiples for extras:

6A, 50V Rectifier Diodes (4-Pack) - RadioShack.com

The diode would be wired like this. The "arrow" is the diode. The "I" is the line you will see on the diodes body. Solder it in the wire from the engine, cover it with heat-shrink tubing, and shrink the tubing over it:

ENGINE --------->I-------- + 12v to battery

Engine frame ------------- - negative to battery, from frame of engine

I didn't add it, but you SHOULD have a fuse in the + 12 volt line, just after the diode, and before the battery. Say 3 amps.

http://www.tulsaenginewarehouse.com/.../allwiring.pdf
MikeBear is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   OldMiniBikes.com Forum > General > Engines and Modifications > Briggs & Stratton Engines

Tags
briggs, coil, hook-up, lighting, wires

Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
hs 40 lighting coil james c Mini Bikes & Parts WANTED 10 01-19-2011 05:59 PM
Lighting Coil? MarksA-C Tecumseh Engines 5 11-08-2010 11:32 AM
techemseh lighting coil wires dandz17 Project Logs 0 10-27-2010 06:28 PM
lighting coil waynelass Briggs & Stratton Engines 1 03-28-2009 02:53 AM
lighting coil ? hayden Honda / Clone / Predator Engines 11 10-27-2008 12:45 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:14 AM.
Style Developed by Andrew Slane

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2 Copyright 2006-2011 OldMiniBikes.com / OMB Group LLC
Contact Us - OldMiniBikes.com Forum - Archive - Top
no new posts