Hey guys was wondering if you could give me any advice on this I need to create my own throttle setup. I saw the thread for the Tecumseh's my concern is i think i might have to do that but flip it to the other side. I have pics at the bottom there the carb is not the original one Previous owner said it was off a 10 hp Tecumseh. Also how could i make something for the choke so its not free and open like it is in the picture. Here is the Link to the Page i saw the throttle set up--> http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/te...-governor.html
hell I couldn't even guess and usually I do.
The choke is an automatic choke. That one looks like maybe a snowblower setup, but usually are on lawn mowers.. You can either swap it out with a manual (if the carb works) or you can just hold it choked by hand until it's started.. OR tie it shut with a piece of wire that unhooks at one end and dangles when you're not using it to choke the carb..
When I let the choke go back from holding the engine dies outbut it holds it a lille longer holding the choke half way any idea what it could be?
Not enough fuel.. Either an air leak between the carb and intake or intake and block..
Passage ways in the carb are gummed up, the carb is the wrong size or worn out..
As long as the carb isn't total junk it should run for the most part though.. The screw sunk into a brass bolt at the vary far bottom of your carburetor is your main fuel mixture.. The small flathead screw penetrating the body of the carb from the left side near the intake manifold is your idle fuel mixture...
GENTLY!! screw them both in till they stop moving (BARELY STOP MOVING) If you can get your fingernail into the slot on the screw, you should be able to screw it in and out without breaking a nail... Overtightenting will ruin screws and jets and stuff..
But.. screw both of those fuel screws in until ya feel them bottom out.. Screw the idle out about 1 1/4 complete turns, and the main on the bottom like 1 full turn out... If the carb is functioning, you SHOULD be able to rev the engine up enough for it to run all by itself with no choke....
About the best you can do is get those screws about half assed right, then hold the throttle full on wide open or as close as needs be, for the engine to continue running with no choke on... Then kinda work on dialing in your main screw slowly until the engine runs good and strong and revs up good with good throttle response.... THEN if ya find that point, the main fuel is pretty close.. Then you can work on setting your idle speed, so that you can leave your hands completely off the motor and it will idle by itself... Then you can move on to adjusting the idle fuel.. Slowly adjust the idle fuel screw in or out until you can hear the engine pick up speed and smooth out and start idleing high.. Then you can go back to adjust the idle speed again.....
It's kind of a trick balancing all of the screws out so everything is working perfectly together.. Sort of a trial and error type thing.. you'll be screwing with screws for a while until ya find a magical medium..
I also ALWAYS test run and dial carbs in with the choke not on... I will shoot it with starting fluid, or hand choke it so it gets a good shot of fuel, and I KNOW it will at least start and run for a second... If it runs for a second, you can start throttling by hand and screwing with screws... It should run with no choke.. So thats how I do them.. Only actually (use) the choke, when starting the engine cold, and it already is known to run good..
Also theres that carb works backwards, as most of the butterflys on these carbs are (pushed open) by the governor... On the OHV Tecumseh engines, the governor (pulls open) your throttle... So you gotta swap the throttle shaft out or re-engineer the system..
And you're missing parts.. in your second post, the rotater thing is supposed to pull on a spring, that pulls on an arm that is missing, then that arm pushes a rod that pushes your throttle open..
Last edited by The Restore Kid; 12-20-2011 at 04:33 PM.
When it runs for a sec the throttle setup i have works i dont have a governor setup on it is this still ok? i think i found the problem the valve gasket is broken and torn could this be the problem?
i meant the intake gasket on the Carb
OH hell yes.. A torn intake or carburetor gasket will cause a big air leak, so it's not sucking through the carb like it should.. People often over tighten the carbs and bend the ears over, so even super tight, theres a gap in the middle where the two port holes line up.. So you'll want to run a file across the face of the carburetor and level it off, to make sure it's gonna seal well against the intake manifold.. Then the same on the intake manifold and engine block...
If it looks like you could bolt everything together with no gaskets, and it still wouldn't leak... It's GOTTA work with good gaskets..