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Old 04-14-2007, 11:11 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Im wondering if your going to like my yellow jacket seat ???
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Old 04-15-2007, 03:04 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Yellowhand my welding buddy use to make aluminum tanks from old air condition units from junk cars. You need two of them to make one tank. But they come out very nice, and that material is cheap from a salvage yard.

Just something to think about if you ever go to a junk yard.
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Old 04-15-2007, 10:51 AM   #33 (permalink)
 
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kbs8ball just e-mailed me some photos of the seat he made for this bike...

I AM SO STOKED!!!!

THIS SEAT IS AWESOME!!!

Check it out...
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File Type: jpg 8ballzkustoms 221.jpg (34.1 KB, 60 views)
File Type: jpg 8ballzkustoms 222.jpg (38.4 KB, 65 views)
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Old 04-15-2007, 10:54 AM   #34 (permalink)
 
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Thanks for the tip, minidragbike...I'll check it out next time I'm shopping for scrap at the yard.
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Old 04-15-2007, 12:01 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Thanks man..Im glad you like it...
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Old 04-15-2007, 02:45 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Looks like a bumble bee seat.
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Old 04-15-2007, 05:05 PM   #37 (permalink)
 
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The Yellowjacket gets an engine and a fuel tank...

Pic 1- Brand new B&S Intek 5.5 hp, purchased at Northern Tools for $209.99. The plastic fuel tank and plastic air cleaner were removed, along with a bunch of extra throttle parts and mounting brackets...

Pic 2- The air cleaner was fabbed from a Mr Gasket 4" die-cast zinc body riveted to a fabbed steel adaptor. The decal for choke operation came from the stock air cleaner.

Pic 3- The throttle was modified to overide the governor, and an exhaust was fabbed from a straight pipe header with a non-functional muffler slipped over and welded to the header.

Pic 4 - No real performance modifications were made to this engine because the wheelset chosen for this build was scavenged from a 1hp pocketbike, and the rear drive sprocket is attached to the wheel by three 1/4" screws. Past builds have proven these sprockets shear off at about 9hp, even when hardened stainless screws are used. The alloy of the wheel is low-grade, and breaks before the stainless screws.

Pic 5- The bung and tab for mounting the fuel tank is tacked to the frame.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 021.jpg (60.0 KB, 125 views)
File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 023.jpg (58.9 KB, 126 views)
File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 017.jpg (59.9 KB, 127 views)
File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 022.jpg (60.4 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 026.jpg (60.9 KB, 87 views)
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Old 04-15-2007, 05:14 PM   #38 (permalink)
 
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Continued...

Pic 6- The length of the bung is precise enough to allow the brass band to clamp down on the bung just tightly enough to prevent any lateral movement of the tank without crushing the thin aluminum shell.

Pic 7- Side view showing overall proportions of the tank and engine.
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File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 029.jpg (60.6 KB, 89 views)
File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 027.jpg (60.6 KB, 116 views)
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Old 04-16-2007, 11:05 AM   #39 (permalink)
 
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Up next...

Pic 1- The sprocket on the left has the mounting holes and axle opening size I want, but the chain pitch is wrong...

The sprocket on the right is the correct chain pitch, but the mounting holes and axle opening are wrong...

I need to fab a sprocket that combines the correct features of these two sprockets...
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File Type: jpg Yellowjacket9 024.jpg (59.3 KB, 55 views)
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Old 04-16-2007, 02:02 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Hey on the sprocket check with APS they have something close to what you need for cheap.
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