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  1. #1
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    New to me.. '69 Briggs 3hp

    Just purchased this setup ...mainly for the motor.

    it's a B&S 3hp .....80232-032201-6901063

    It fires with gas poured in the carb...for maybe 2 seconds. It's pretty rusty and had some really rank liquid mixed with rust in it.

    Anyone want to chime in on what i have here? It's been mated up with this Emglo compressor since at least 1977 the guy said, so i don't think it's got a lot of run time...hopefully.

    Any tips on how i should clean and seal the inside of the fuel tank ?

    Anyone have the correct carb rebuild kit i need for this ?

    TY for any and all replies !!

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    Last edited by badkisson; 05-12-2018 at 08:01 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Harquebus's Avatar
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    Sounds like you identified it with aplomb. I'm curious about the crankshaft and if it is suitable for a bike. Taking that pulley off would be my first order of business.

    I would bet the fuel pump pickup is clogged and the pump diaphragm is toast.

    There's a POR-15 gas tank repair kit that will do several tanks, otherwise you can use home-brew remedies to de-rust the tank such as muriatic acid or white vinegar and a handful of screws, nuts and nails (or pebbles) and a lot of agitation. Then a suitable gas tank coating or sealant.

    Illustrated Parts List:...https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/briggs/...s8991-1094.pdf

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  4. #3
    Senior Member Sprocket86's Avatar
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    That's a cool little 3hp B&S you have there.

    I see it's missing the mesh screen on the flywheel to keep debris out.

    Being a 1969 date coded engine you might want to keep the stock tank and carb to keep original.

    It has the 4 bolt hole mount side cover so that opens up the door for mini bike or kart use.

    I'd investigate the PTO and report back.

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  6. #4
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    Thx fellas....trying to figure out how to post pics here.

    Could post more pics tomorrow as today is kinda busy.

    I'm thinking it DOES NOT have a key slot on the shaft.... :(


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    Last edited by badkisson; 05-13-2018 at 03:03 PM.

  7. #5
    Senior Member Harquebus's Avatar
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    Your shaft looks threaded and sleeved for the pulley to fit the shaft's O.D.

    All is not lost if you could find a suitable crankshaft. Check that popular auction site. . . .

  8. #6
    Dr. Shop Teacher's Avatar
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    Everything you need to know and didn't know where to look is here: https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/b...p-cousins.html

    Covers everything including cleaning the tank and rebuilding carb. Best bet is Rustoleum Rust Remover--coat the tank and let it sit for a few hours, rinse, do again. If the tank is really bad, you could consider Red Kote to seal the tank, just be careful around the bowl built into the top of the tank.
    ~Wilderness~Knight Rider~Trail Bike~

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  10. #7
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    Hey Bad My phone battery went dead sa we knew it would ...... Great conversation though and thank you for the link to that FB site.....

    Plus Tard Mon Ami........ Try to stay cool in that hot spot you in..............

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  12. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boudreaux in La. View Post
    Hey Bad My phone battery went dead sa we knew it would ...... Great conversation though and thank you for the link to that FB site.....

    Plus Tard Mon Ami........ Try to stay cool in that hot spot you in..............
    Great visiting with you also !!! Thank you for the insights Boudreaux !!

    2 Problems today...pull cord broke (fixed) and stripped screw and screw hole in the fuel tank.

    i'm trying to get this motor just in running condition as is....the fuel tank has a leak about halfway up on one side...where it's spot welded and it's not accessible.

    The motor ran today....(40 seconds)..until the bowl in the tank ran dry...i'm thinking it's not picking up fuel from the tank.

    Today, 1 of the 3 screws that screw down from the carb stripped...and now won't/can't go in to attach it to the carb....UGHHH.

    Now i'm up a creek.....trying to locate a used tank now....
    Last edited by badkisson; 05-16-2018 at 09:58 AM.

  13. #9
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    I would use this stuff called Red Kote on your tank. It was recommended to me by a member a few years back. I had a leak on the bottom of a 5hp tank. No way would I weld a fuel cell. Try it ......

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  15. #10
    Havasu Dave's Avatar
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    Lots of good suggestions for you in this thread. My take:

    These tanks are soldered, your concerns of open flame not withstanding. It's very simple to purge them and safely use an open flame for hard soldering.

    In this case, the retaining nuts for the pulsa jet are stripped. You can tap them, and go oversize, or you can tap them and install with an epoxy sealant.

    Red Cote, sure, I like Caswells.

    But I agree with you on going with a new tank.

    Fuel routing is thus: Fuel is picked up from the bottom of the tank, routed through the pulse pump ports, then back down to the tank reservoir where it is then picked up again by the smaller pickup and shot into the plenum.

    It is common to find one of the two pick up tubes clogged with varnish. It is also common for the pump gasket to be worn to the point it wont support pumping. It's one, or both of those conditions. Very reliable fuel system once you get it right. All of it is very rebuildable. The actual jet, which is seated behind the needle valve, is rarely the problem, but part of the carb rebuild.

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