Register

User Tag List

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Flathead Guides

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Southeast, Michigan
    Posts
    155
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0

    Flathead Guides

    I have a flathead that was rebuilt. In the process the guides were not replaced. Now I hear a lot of sounds like valve noise. Kind of like a solid cam in a v8. I suspect the guides may be worn. If memory serves me correctly the valves were not sloppy in the guides. My question is, how hard is it to change them without access to a machine shop? I put a lot of time in this build so I want it to run correctly. The cam is a dyna cam, don't remember what grind it was but remember using the #18 springs. Billet lifters were also used. I really could use the help......
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member Harquebus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Eastern TN
    Posts
    219
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0
    Well, here is the procedure verbatim from the L-Head service manual:

    (sounds like hand tools, primarily)

    VALVE GUIDES
    Service 1/4 (6.40 mm) Valve Guides
    Model Series 60000, 80000, 90000, 100000,
    110000, 120000, 130000
    If flat end of Valve Guide Plug Gauge, Tool #19122 (1),
    can be inserted into valve guide a distance of 5/16
    (7.92 mm), Fig. 10, A, the valve guide is worn and
    should be rebushed.

    Rebush Worn Aluminum Guides
    1. Place pilot of Tool #19064, Counterbore Reamer
    (2), in valve guide.
    2. Slide Tool #19191, Pilot Bushing (4), down over
    reamer until bushing rests on valve seat.
    3. Hold a replacement guide bushing (3), Part
    #63709, on top of pilot bushing and mark reamer
    1/16 (1.57 mm) above it (5), Fig. 10, Illus. B.
    4. Ream worn guide until mark on counterbore
    reamer is even with top of pilot bushing. Use
    kerosene or equivalent to lubricate reamer.
    5. After counterboring guide, continue to turn reamer
    in same direction while withdrawing it, Fig. 10,
    Illus. C.
    6. Position replacement bushing in guide.
    7. Press bushing with Tool #19367, Valve Guide
    Bushing Driver (6), until bushing is flush with top of
    guide, Fig. 10, Illus. D.
    A B C
    D E
    Fig. 10

    8. Finish ream bushing through to breather chamber
    with Tool #19066. Finish Reamer, using kerosene
    or equivalent to lubricate reamer, Fig. 10, Illus. E.
    9. Flush all chips away and remove reamer, as in
    step 5.
    NOTE:Tool #19191 (1), Pilot Bushing, can be
    modified to provide more accurate
    alignment with the valve seat. Counterbore
    with Tool #19064, Counterbore Reamer.
    Use #19367 Driver to press in bushing Part
    #63709, and finish ream with Tool #19066,
    Finish Reamer, Fig. 11.


  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Southeast, Michigan
    Posts
    155
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0
    Wow sounds like I need more college. That is all said and sounds good however I need more detail. Are the tool part numbers Briggs part numbers? I need illustrations.
    Last edited by briggsraptor; 05-24-2018 at 04:31 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Harquebus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Eastern TN
    Posts
    219
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0
    Yes! Briggs Part Numbers, indeed.

    Link to L-head manual here, provided by Dr. Shop Teacher---
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6Na...s3Z2Q2X00/edit

    See section 6, Compression

    What kinda Briggs you got anyway?

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Southeast, Michigan
    Posts
    155
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0
    It is a 5hp IC block with a few aftermarket pieces. ARC rod Weisco piston and Dyno cam. I threw a Raptor carb on her because of the cam. All in all it sounds pretty healthy except for the valve noise. I lapped the valves during assembly and I am running #18 springs. It's been a work in progress for about two years. I suffer from a brain injury from an accident so it's hard for me to remember all the fine details. A friend of mine (125cc) helped me set up the block because of my injury. However I done what I could to the motor. It runs, starts on the 3rd or 4th pull but the noise drives me nuts. Sounds like a Chey running a solid cam......

  6. #6
    Senior Member jeep2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Vestal NY
    Posts
    7,276
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    5
    I doubt worn guides would cause noise like that. Most likely some interference issues with your aftermarket parts

  7. #7
    ole4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Georgetown TX
    Posts
    3,614
    Mentioned
    19 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0
    I agree worn guides should not cause noise. If really loose it will burn oil and blow out oil when exhaust pressure goes down the worn guide and pressurizes the crankcase breather area.
    Ole

  8. #8
    Senior Member Harquebus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Eastern TN
    Posts
    219
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Rides
    0
    I wasn't gonna say anything because I've rebuilt a few and didn't care much about the valves, beyond correcting the valve lash and regrinding the valve faces. Never bothered with the guides, and some were plenty loose with a fair amount of side-to-side play (when each valve is fully open).

    I've never heard noticeable valve noise in any of my "clunkers".

    Anyway, this a decent consensus of opinion for me.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •