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  1. #11
    Senior Member DeadPixel's Avatar
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    https://www.ombwarehouse.com/coleman...age-1-kit.html

    The OMB kit might kill 2 birds with one stone. Makes installing the torque converter easy and is a full bolt on deal.

  2. #12
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    I know everyone is recommending a torque converter, which is what I'll do, but has anybody installed one of these HRM jackshafts? They claim to add top speed and be more durable in sand:

    https://www.hotrodminibike.com/produ...oleman-ct200u/

  3. #13
    Senior Member TheDullCarbide's Avatar
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    @2SlickNick did on one of his builds. Again, it's just a clutch so you'll have that trade-off of torque for top speed. Go for the TAV2.

  4. #14

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    Robotfist, If you have a 3/4" crankshaft, this kit will do fine for 1/4 the price. You might have to use some 1" spacers under your engine depending on what frame you have. The draw back to this cheap kit is really only the belt. The belt supplied could wear quickly. A Comet brand or Bando brand belt will alleviate that concern and still save you 1/2 the money over the other kits (also made in China).
    The cheap kit is $50 with Free Shipping.
    To get more torque AND more speed from your current set up, you probably will have to install a smaller rear sprocket than you have. Just installing a torque converter with current rear sprocket most likely won't increase top speed but will give massive low end torque, meaning wheelies. You can still have low end grunt and gain top speed by using a smaller rear sprocket. I would shoot for 4:1 or 4.5:1 gearing from your chain set up. You asked about a 60 tooth sprocket... What is your current rear sprocket? Do you have #35 chain or the bigger 40/41 chain? If I had to guess... I'd say you already have the bigger 40/41 chain on your minibike.

    Please keep us posted on what you do and on your results.

    Danford1
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMET-TORQU....c100010.m2109
    Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all of its students.

  5. #15

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    More info...
    If you want a simple and super strong way to raise the engine, get this solid piece of aluminum. It is 1" thick and 4" x 7" long.
    $22 with free shipping.
    You can also fab something up using 1" square steel, if you have that. It won't be as stiff torsionally (resistant to twisting), but steel tubing will work.

    Also, the mounting bolts in some of these cheap kits are metric and the engine has SAE threads. You might have to go to the hardware store and buy 4 bolts. They are 1" long and use a 5/16 Fine thread. I usually just get allen head bolts as they are stronger than grade 5 regular bolts. Check the bolt that holds the clutch to the crank. Sometimes you need to buy one of those for the same reason, metric in kit, SAE on crank. If the bolts don't thread easily BY HAND into the engine or crank, then you need different bolts. Don't force the bolts in if they don't go all the way in easily by hand. A lot of guys make that mistake, you don't have to :-)
    Good luck.
    Danford1

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-X-4-ALUMI...IAAOSwvg9Xb0p3
    Time is the best teacher. Unfortunately it kills all of its students.

  6. #16
    Senior Member DeadPixel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danford1 View Post
    Robotfist, If you have a 3/4" crankshaft, this kit will do fine for 1/4 the price. You might have to use some 1" spacers under your engine depending on what frame you have. The draw back to this cheap kit is really only the belt. The belt supplied could wear quickly. A Comet brand or Bando brand belt will alleviate that concern and still save you 1/2 the money over the other kits (also made in China).
    The cheap kit is $50 with Free Shipping.
    To get more torque AND more speed from your current set up, you probably will have to install a smaller rear sprocket than you have. Just installing a torque converter with current rear sprocket most likely won't increase top speed but will give massive low end torque, meaning wheelies. You can still have low end grunt and gain top speed by using a smaller rear sprocket. I would shoot for 4:1 or 4.5:1 gearing from your chain set up. You asked about a 60 tooth sprocket... What is your current rear sprocket? Do you have #35 chain or the bigger 40/41 chain? If I had to guess... I'd say you already have the bigger 40/41 chain on your minibike.

    Please keep us posted on what you do and on your results.

    Danford1
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMET-TORQU....c100010.m2109
    The torque converter will add both torque and top speed. The stock jack shaft is a 2:1 ratio and the torque converters low range is 2.7 with a .90 overdrive. I don't think the belt set up gives you the full .90 in overdrive though cuz there is some slip in the belt.

    The jack shaft set up uses a 10 tooth on the motor to a 20 tooth and then a 10 tooth to a 50 on the rear. Ends up being 10:1 ratio. The stock chain is 420 chain.

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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by robotfist View Post
    Iíve been debating getting the torque converter but I donít know a lot about them. I primarily ride this bike out in the desert near Joshua Tree down in SoCal. So itís very sandy and some of the dry lake beds I ride on are dusty and have a fine, talc like powder. Since a TAV is belt driven, would this be an issue in that type of environment? Just wondering if Iíd end up with the TAV belt constantly slipping on me.
    I live in the Antelope Valley CA (High Desert) and run my CT200U and TAV and it runs great in the desert. Stg 1 and TAV get me 38-40mph. I left rear sprocket stock and dropped to an 8 tooth up front and it is a beast. Torque for days and still approaching 40mph.

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  10. #18
    Raskin's Avatar
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    I love my ct200u and will never part with it..it's my dog..i got extra rims so i can switch big tire to small ones easily and has a tav..it's the one i sneak out on the street..i also got a trailmaster but if i had to own one late model bike the trailmaster mb200 is the way to go coz it's very comfortable off road.
    Last edited by Raskin; 10-17-2018 at 07:29 PM.

  11. #19
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    Ldogg29 has the right idea with that 8 tooth. IMO a 9/60 would make for great gearing on the Coleman. Heck, there were a couple guys in the Coleman group who were running the huge 70 tooth sprocket. The idea is higher RPM during the shift into OD and at top speed.

 

 
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