Recent content by DeadPixel

I agree with EVOL the stock ruixing carb would be a good set up and for $18.50 its probably your cheapest good option. I have 3 of them. 2 stock and 1, .650 bored ruixing. There not perfect but there easy to tune. Stick with a stock one if your still running your governor.

I don't remember how I stumbled on it but found an old post recommending the HS40 tecumseh valve springs part #31672. Any one use these in there clone and are they a direct drop in. I like to frankenstein my motors. Are there any other factory springs that work besides the GX140 for higher RPM...

Ya this was close to 20 years ago the last time I seen one advertised. Don't know the brand or how much power they made. Just remember they were painted black and said they were for the Raptor 2 motors.

I would get the EX if going with a coleman. If you are willing to wait and save I would get the Monster moto 212 though. It has a torque converter, front suspension and a front brake. It sucks trying to stop at 30 with only a rear brake.

I remember when I was a kid they use to sell a super charger for the brigs raptor engine that looked like a roots type blower. Don't know how well it worked but remember wanting one for my go-kart. Wish some one would reproduce them or make a new kit for these and the honda motors.

I would run a larger rear sprocket than run a smaller front sprocket. It was less friction that way. Every little bit helps.

I also swapped my valve cover for the clear GPS cover and like it. That's why I am not running the champion cover right now.

I have the champion rockers but there not installed yet. I believe they require either a valve cover riser or the champion rocker cover which I was running that is taller. There are also a few but expensive taller after market valve covers that will clear. The rockers look cool though. The lash...

The torque converter will add both torque and top speed. The stock jack shaft is a 2:1 ratio and the torque converters low range is 2.7 with a .90 overdrive. I don't think the belt set up gives you the full .90 in overdrive though cuz there is some slip in the belt. The jack shaft set up uses...

Is that with or with out valve stem seals? I have had motors that have had valve steam seals on both intake and exhaust. If you need you can modify the seals and use them as shims. I like to run the intake seal but use the exhaust just as a shim.

https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/coleman-ct200u-torque-converter-stage-1-kit.html The OldMiniBikes kit might kill 2 birds with one stone. Makes installing the torque converter easy and is a full bolt on deal.

Which holes did you slot, the torque converter?

I have thought about this too cuz the intake almost has no length to it for tuning. Its easy to put a long header on the bike and get a little bit of an effect for tuning but the intake is nothing. You really want the length between the carb and head but though that doing like you did might...

My bike is hitting abut 30+ right now. The governor is bypassed. It is limiting my RPMs to a little over 5K at the moment. I have a billet rod, GX160 aluminum flywheel and 22LB springs and a few other mods. I cut some coils out of the return spring to get the extra RPM but you need the rod and...

If keeping the stock cam than 18# springs but don't get the 22mm carb or replace the springs tell you replace your rod and flywheel or it wont last long. You need at least a billet rod as it is right now. Take it easy tell you replace the rod and don't put new springs tell you replace the flywheel.