On my e model there were little wire retaining rings that were a pain to get apart then the innards pull out. Mine were all rusted in and it was difficult to get it apart. I wound up replacing all of it except the inner springs. Made new inner legs and outer legs and made larger bronze bushes.
I took it apart and soaked the laminations in evaporust and it came out like new. Hard part was getting off the coil retainers. I got a new crankshaft from Jacks years ago that i used.
air is a insulator more compression requires more voltage for the same gap. Closing the gap is just a diagnostic test to try to figure out why your test is failing.
The small valve is on the exhaust side, intake valve is the same. Dont overthink this, if you have spark fuel and compression and its timed right and mixture is correct you get boom. One of the three components is missing.
So assuming you have fuel, adequate spark at the right time, and compression, my guess is too lean a mixture as with no carb and an open inlet port it’s getting as much air into the cylinder as possible.
Why would you change the hemi flattop .550 piston? Its already a good piece and is a flattop. with a +.020 rod it should get you close to a zero deck height. Then you need to measure the in the hole measurement and add that to head gasket thickness to get to approx .030 piston top to head deck.
Watch this video to get the concept then keep in mind you do not have rollers but adjusters on the valve side. You want to check your mid lift geometry so that a imaginary line thru the center of the axle to the tip of the adjuster is parallel to the gasket surface. Your valve side geometry is...
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