Sometimes I have a problem where the trailing edge buttons fall out of the pulley at high speeds. I always put a very light dab of high temp silicone on them to convince them not to leave the party early.
As long as the other two buttons on the trailing edge are still good you should be okay. The reason they are there is when you are coasting, the pulley will rotate backward and if the spring can't hold the backtorque, the buttons on the backside of the pulley will limit the amount the pulley can...
To add a noticeable amount of top-end rpm, you need to mess around with the weights and springs in the driver unit. Changing the Driven spring position WILL affect your rpm a little, but it mostly changes the belt tension.
I'm so glad I finally found this version on Youtube. I have it on CD in my shop but I could never find the full 12 minute version online. Definitely in my top 5.
If you want to drive the TAV like a glorified clutch, then yes, gear down the final drive ratio.
I have two problems with that though.
1: When it gets into its highest overdrive ratio, the engine revs into its powerband and then you're stuck driving that speed just like if you ran a clutch...
Your problem lies completely with the TAV2. You need to change weights and garter springs in the torque convertor to "program" it to wait to shift until higher rpms. You'll need these:
https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/-2-genuine-comet-aluminum-weights.html...
The problem is fixed now. I never officially measured the crank end play, but it shouldn't have changed since it was stock. You can "feel" and acceptable amount of play by hand so I'm not worried about it.
It was caused by two problems:
1: The deck surface on the block was slightly warped...
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