Super Bronc 10 Build, from the bone yard.

delray

Well-Known Member
#21
I'm digging in to finding a rear rim that will work.
Found this so far, do you all think it will work?
I haven't dismounted the front tire to measure the rim width yet. The rim below lists the front tire size I posted above in pictures.
RIM 8" X 9" STEEL
49.50

White, Steel Drop Center Rims. (4) 1/2" Holes on a 4" Bolt Hole Circle. Use 9" wide 1006 Rims for 21x12.00-8 or 22x11.00-8 Tires. Valve Stems are available on the Tires Page.
interesting,looks like it also has the beadlock for the tire. who has the rim? gokart supply? I also wonder if it measures only 8 inch from the inside of the rim and there(9inch) measurement is from the outer rim? rim might be spot on if it is all that and the bolt pattern is in the center of the rim?
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#22
if you are missing alot of hard parts, like the rear axle and the brakes,battery bracket ...etc. you might want to pm chatten63 and just go with a repop of the torque converter backing plate that also has the brake on it. unless your into fabricating things up your self?
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#23
I'm digging in to finding a rear rim that will work.
Found this so far, do you all think it will work?
I haven't dismounted the front tire to measure the rim width yet. The rim below lists the front tire size I posted above in pictures.
RIM 8" X 9" STEEL
49.50

White, Steel Drop Center Rims. (4) 1/2" Holes on a 4" Bolt Hole Circle. Use 9" wide 1006 Rims for 21x12.00-8 or 22x11.00-8 Tires. Valve Stems are available on the Tires Page.
found it.
https://www.gokartsupply.com/atvwl.htm#1006
 
#26
Delray, which one is the factory style #40 chain sprocket?
Ken, if you select Delray’s response as i did yours, it will sent him a heads-up email.
Staton folks are great to work with but really don’t like answering the phone, they are super busy. They like folks to order on-line, period. I’ve had to speak to them for thirty seconds once.
Again, great people.
 

KenZ

New Member
#29
also see they make a 72,man you could do some hill climbing with that gear…...lol
Thanks all! :)
Made a little progress this morning.
I got the front axle apart and off the lower fork legs, this was all assembled when I got the assortment of stuff. The bearings tapped out with a 16" long " 3/8" extension bar.
Luckily I was able to see there was a flat snap ring that needed removed before a few taps with the bar and hammer.
As you can see from one of my pictures above of the wheels and tires one has a drum brake drum and the stand off extension from the wheel center attached and I have the shoe assembly that goes to it. It was from a larger vehicle, but I think the inside diameter where the bearing goes is the same.
Going to see if it will work with this front wheel, if not I'll find the proper one eventually.
Taking pictures in "exploded view" {attachment} to assure it all goes back together correctly.
The center hub bolts on the front rim are currently soaking up some Liquid Wrench before I hit them with an impact wrench. They are pretty rusty.
 

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KenZ

New Member
#30
Okay, on to the motor I have. Also compliments of my inveterate junker neighbor Carl.
It's a nearly new Sears Tecumseh 8.5 hp. I know it's not a 10, but it was free.
I know the tank has to go away but it's got the right tank filled carb with float. It has an intake manifold that may or may not work. It has electric start provisions if wanted.
It's also drilled and tapped for a torque converter mount on the output side.
The only downside is it's a tapered shaft, I'll need a straight shaft adapter.
Now for the BIG QUESTION..... what Comet Torque Converter should I get for Left side drive?
 

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delray

Well-Known Member
#31
almost need to find a different engine,but that might just work. first you would have to do some measurements and see if you can turn the crank down to a 3/4 keyway shaft and if you can't do that your self or a friend for free? then you need a new crank or motor. also see you have none adjustable carb. that has to go. no if's or buts on that one. need new tank brackets or fab them ? maybe look for a lighted coil and flywheel so you can have lights on your bike. hey it's a super bronc. you got to have them...lol
if you can save that motor? then a comet 30 series 3/4 shaft driver
hey you live in montana,maybe you could find a10hp tecumseh snow blower w/light cheap. if all your other options run out?
 

KenZ

New Member
#32
almost need to find a different engine,but that might just work.
Did some investigation on the motor.....There was a plastic non tamper cover over the adjustment screw on the carb. Is this the adjustment you say I need?
Next, I found a company that makes the 7/8" to 1" adapter on eBay....See picture.
So maybe I can do this with this motor and not have to start looking for a motor, at least for now.
I agree, I would like to have the battery charging and light functions on a future motor, that is if the kids love this thing, which I believe they will.
Comet makes 2 torque converters that do a 1" shaft, see the pictures, one is for a #35 chain, the other is for a #40 chain. Which would be best, considering number of teeth and chain strength? Another thing to consider, since I am trying to do a left side drive, right side brake a narrower chain and rear sprocket may come into play.
Think about this and let me know any and all. I'm in totally uncharted territory right now. I have not messed with minibikes in nearly 55 years, and back then we made our own from a 20" bike and belt drive to the rear wheel....
Pictures in the following post, they're on the phone and I did this reply on the computer....
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#35
Pics for above.
The third one shows the crankshaft adapter off, left, and on Right.
hey if it works go with the 1 inch driver.
I don't see the main jet adjustment under the bowl, so i am assuming it is a fix jet? not the greatest to have it if you change your exhaust from the stock muffler too header pipe with a stock fix carb. having a header pipe/muffler and adjustable carb,those two things alone will make it run 10x better. you can get new repop carbs cheap on ebay with a adjustable jet. maybe some one can chim in on whats the best one to get?
i can't really give my opinion on that disc brake. only thing i can say it looks just little under power to try stopping a two ton bike. that brake might work good on a doodle bug or some thing small. also you might go through brake pads little faster too. the original disc brake unit on the super bronc's and trikes where bigger and they work ok. big thing is making a good floating disc brake so it stop nice.
 

KenZ

New Member
#37
I seen this too on that web site. disc rotor 6.9 OD for a peerless bolt pattern.
Okay, for Today's exploration... Bare with my guys, I'm getting up to speed here on what I need and the correct terminology for each, I know I'm the FNG, but someone has to be! :D

Drive Hubs : So, the Biggest issue will be the correct size for *Peerless* style drive flanges for the rear chain wheel and brake disc hubs. I've taken pictures of how much room I have with the front wheel positioned as a rear wheel below. I am guessing I'll have to speak to one of the suppliers. See pictures below please.
Seat Dimensons: Next, How long is the seat?, how wide is the seat at the front and back, and what is the distance from the front to the shock mount? I have some good high layer count 3/4" cabinet making plywood I can make a sturdy seat base with. Is there any band iron reinforcement under the seat base tying the front to the shock mount strap? See Nasty Broncs picture below that I scribbled on.
Seat Shocks: How long should they be? I found some on the web that look about right, but I have no idea if they are correct, you all do!
Carburation: I found an adjustable Tecumseh carb # from a YouTube video by a guy that does small engine work. I Googled the # and found a factory Tecumseh carb for about $80 and many knock offs for $15 or less, I think we'll try the less first!
Torque Converters: Looking at what's available and quality I'm going to go with a Comet, the only thing is, with left side drive do you drive directly from the torque converter as supplied from the rear sprocket on the TC to the rear chainwheel? Does there need to be any support at the rear of the TC? or is the TC plate enough for the loads? See pic below of the Red Bronc from OldMiniBikes archives. I believe that the drive goes from the TC to the rear chainwheel without any other support to the motor plate. Correct me please if I am wrong.
 

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KenZ

New Member
#38
Tonight's work after Walking Dead, got the plastic tank back to black.
Scrubbed it with a white non abrasive Scotch Brite and Westleys Bleach White then put Westleys Plastic protector on it.. Almost good as new. The cap is missing the clear dome top and gasket, but I can make a cork gasket with a pinhole in it.
 

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KenZ

New Member
#39
Rear drive wheel with extened flanges:
So here's what I'm attempting to do for a rear drive wheel with flanges for the rear sprocket and disc brake disc utilizing the wheel and hubs from MFG Supply. I'll get the chain wheel and brake disc from Staton. http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=2239
The issue after making a few calls is that no one makes a bolt on drive flange larger than about 3.75 inches deep, so I'll have to cut these in their centers and weld in a section of appropriate size pipe.
The bearings that came out of the front wheel assembly that I have are the snap ring style 499502hnr bearing. Are these the same for the rear on a factory equipped bike?
I made a sketch of what I'm trying to do, I can't get it to post in the right orientation, sorry, any and all let me know if I'm on the right track.
Thanks!
 

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#40
hey if it works go with the 1 inch driver.
I don't see the main jet adjustment under the bowl, so i am assuming it is a fix jet? not the greatest to have it if you change your exhaust from the stock muffler too header pipe with a stock fix carb. having a header pipe/muffler and adjustable carb,those two things alone will make it run 10x better. you can get new repop carbs cheap on ebay with a adjustable jet. maybe some one can chim in on whats the best one to get?
i can't really give my opinion on that disc brake. only thing i can say it looks just little under power to try stopping a two ton bike. that brake might work good on a doodle bug or some thing small. also you might go through brake pads little faster too. the original disc brake unit on the super bronc's and trikes where bigger and they work ok. big thing is making a good floating disc brake so it stop nice.
The jack shaft rear brake on my 1040 is more than enough for dirt riding. Mine will easily lock up the rear wheel, even as big as it is. Any more braking than lock up is just wasted.
 
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