Lil SOB trike suspension conversion

#1
This is my buddies trike that he and I put under the knife last weekend and its turning out pretty good. Switching to suspension because he grenaded the rear diff last time we went riding so we figured better would make it the way he wants it (save some future tail bones too.) Also switching to a hydraulic disk break cause 50 mph runs with band breaks where not cutting it. The suspension geometry isn't perfect but it works and we can fine tune down the road if needed. Also foot controls cause why not let's see how it feels. Figured I'd share, maybe spark an idea for some one else.
 

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#2
Now that you messed with the geometry by extending it and putting a live axle,that thing isn’t going to turn for crap. You need to run a differential on these trikes.
 
#3
From the back of the seat to the rear the bike looks very robust with the added shock absorber.
My concern the the area just in front of the seat where the bent tubing goes horizontal that appears to be the brunt of a lot of shock and force when he hits rough spots while riding.
 
#4
I can tell you from experience. On the gambler 100 last year where it bolts together. Even grade 8 bolts break. Not a good feeling. Now I know why so many were welded. And I did the same after that. Since I ride mine and it’s not for restoratio.
 
#5
Just my ? cents. I used to race autocross and TT scramblers. In both the automotive and the motorcycle venues, I have seen shocks break, in many different ways. It looks to me as though the shocks are what will be taking 100% of the abuse.. That said, as soon as the driver sits down. the shocks are going to compress. That will leave less articulation than appears to be available. A meandering cruise around a few hills may be fine. I just don't see those shocks taking a full season of "fun rides". Like RapidRob said. That is where the brunt of the force will be delivered. Like Gumpit said, you need a differential. Every turn you make, both of those wheels are going to want to turn at the same speed. So, you either make turns at speeds that lift the outside wheel, or you ensure the inside wheel is on a surface it can slip on.. Your other two choices will be a half acre to turn around, or, with enough force, you'll bind the axle.
 
#6
I wouldn’t use that backrest support for the shocks either. I went off a jump and bent that back to where it hit the motor. Or gusset the hell out of it.
 
#7
I like what you are trying to do, but as said above there are some concerns. @gumpit is 100% correct on the backrest. You'll need gussets and then some for it to survive. Also, that third or middle shock appears to be at a different angle then the outboard shocks? That's going to cause geometry issues and binding. I'd ditch the third one and step up the outer shocks to some better quality MX shocks.
 

Steve73

Well-Known Member
#8
How bad was the diffrential that you couldn't rebuild what was broken? Like others have said have fun with that axle now and when going on the right bump and your back gets pushed forward when the back rest bends from the stress. UnBelizable. Looks great tho. Yay!
 
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