Mtd cracked frame.

cfh

Well-Known Member
#2
can you post another picture, but not so close-up please... hard to get perspective with it that close up.
is it terminal? hell no. well it will be terminal for that finish around the crack. But a decent TIG welder can fix that.
 

Bbqman

Active Member
#3
can you post another picture, but not so close-up please... hard to get perspective with it that close up.
is it terminal? hell no. well it will be terminal for that finish around the crack. But a decent TIG welder can fix that.
It is going to powder coat anyways. I am just worried about the strength. I am a big dude. 6'5" 240. Thanks for the input
IMG_20210321_185640779.jpg IMG_20210321_185636718.jpg
 

cfh

Well-Known Member
#4
thanks that adds some perspective. you could have the welder either cut the frame and put a slug inside the tubes, or weld an exterior brace so it can't crack again in the same spot.
 

MJL

Active Member
#5
+1 on a slug. I'm 225-230 and broke the frame on my Baja Warrior at some point doing small jumps and wheelies. Didn't have a slug to fit, so I just welded back together with an AC buzz box and 7014 rod. Holding well so far...
 

Bbqman

Active Member
#6
+1 on a slug. I'm 225-230 and broke the frame on my Baja Warrior at some point doing small jumps and wheelies. Didn't have a slug to fit, so I just welded back together with an AC buzz box and 7014 rod. Holding well so far...
I haven't even ridden it yet lol. Slowly putting it back together. Here is a pick of the whole bike IMG_20210118_141439949.jpg
 
#11
No sir it's trash, never to be ridden again, totally unsafe for you to ride it ever again Bbqman... therefore you must pkg it up and send it to me. I'll dispose of it properly sir! Lol ;)

You're good, easy fix. No biggie. And it'll be safe too
(Still think you should just save the hassle and drop ship it to me! Lol)
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#12
It is going to powder coat anyways. I am just worried about the strength. I am a big dude. 6'5" 240. Thanks for the input
View attachment 276905 View attachment 276906
Common issue with the MTDs, I have one cracked in the exact same spot, poorly repaired with a chunk of scrap steel. I bought a later Western Flyer frame with the larger, updated dropouts to replace it and traced the dropouts to have some made. Project stalled while I figure out CAD software or have someone draw them in CAD for me to send out. Personally I prefer the look of the larger dropouts.

If you're interested in a set I'll try to push that project up.

mtd523gen3.jpg
 

Bbqman

Active Member
#13
No sir it's trash, never to be ridden again, totally unsafe for you to ride it ever again Bbqman... therefore you must pkg it up and send it to me. I'll dispose of it properly sir! Lol ;)

You're good, easy fix. No biggie. And it'll be safe too
(Still think you should just save the hassle and drop ship it to me! Lol)
Lol, thanks
 

Bbqman

Active Member
#14
Common issue with the MTDs, I have one cracked in the exact same spot, poorly repaired with a chunk of scrap steel. I bought a later Western Flyer frame with the larger, updated dropouts to replace it and traced the dropouts to have some made. Project stalled while I figure out CAD software or have someone draw them in CAD for me to send out. Personally I prefer the look of the larger dropouts.

If you're interested in a set I'll try to push that project up.

View attachment 276925
Not sure what you mean by dropouts
 
#16
Those larger "drop outs" will provide a lot more support where obviously there is a design flaw. Perhaps not a "flaw" per se, because none of these machines were ever intended to support upwards of 230 pounds.

Also, using a slug "might" require bending the frame more than it wants to bend WITH those "drop outs" in place. Because I like to weld, and have plenty of time to do this stuff, I'd consider cutting off both of the "drop outs," "then" cutting the cracked area of the frame completely in half, and then separating the two pieces and installing my solid slug. Holes would need to be drilled first on either end to "capture the slug, as well as to gain access to push it back up into the mating section once the two pieces were aligned. Yes, this is probably too verbose and too much information on a social networking platform, but the way I just described is the only way to do this right. Running a weld bead on the crack is not going to mitigate the fact that the design is prone to cracking in the first place.
 

Bbqman

Active Member
#20
a little faster and easier way if you have to pay someone to weld it for you may be to weld the crack and ad a gusset from the bottom of the existing drop out to the frame where the bend starts or just under and past similar to the larger drop out???
I think that is the way I am going to go. I found a guy that will do it. He will cut a "window" where the crack is and put a slug in. Then make a bracket for underneath as you said and wild that on both sides. Thanks for the hints
 
Top