I got "bored"

markus

Well-Known Member
#1
After years of wanting to be able to do Oversize cylinder boring "in house" (literally, I work out of my house :D..... unfortunately so does my wife right now though due to covid :(), I finally had a go at it. My first victim was an H35 steel sleeve I had with a "could have got away with in a pinch" cylinder wall in it. I had a friend who is now gone that did machine shop work many many years ago that used to come help me and give me tips and pointers on stuff like this and he is now gone so I was a bit nervous to do this on my own unsupervised, but it came out pretty good...so far anyway. I'm working on 50 year old engines, and my tools are pretty much the same age/era so you never know what's gonna happen :oops:

Reaming the ridge and Boring it out between customer car repair jobs was easier than sourcing pistons and rings. I have some .020 OS sets and extra rings coming from the UK as I bought out meadowbrook's supply for the H35's since not much was showing up here in the US. I just got in a .010 piston I found on ebay last night and its a fit so my old style small engine bore gauge is working (I actually was checking its accuracy a lot while doing the work since its a pretty simple 1960's setup). I may just take this one up to .020 though...to "hone" my skills a little more ;) (I am the funniest guy I know!), I just got another H35 engine in for rebuild that will need an overbore due to moisture damage on the wall and I think the .010 over will do the trick there. Gonna need a crankshaft too as well as some other things though, she's a hot mess inside!

Checking the measurement after the rough cut.....keeping to about .003 short of the goal and let the fine stones do the finish work
boring.jpg


after final cut and quick hone with the dinglebalz (marks are just stains from the gauge feet)
boring 2.jpg


Block is packed in with some other small frame H's while I wait for some room and parts but I popped the box open and did quick and dirty dry fit soon as I got the package in the mail to see if it actually would fit.....relief, for now. Of course you should do the cutting after you get and have the piston in your hands for best fitment, I knew I had the .020's coming as well so if I did get too fat its not a big deal on this donor block.
IMG_2408.JPG

Now I need to find a donor aluminum bore, process is a little different and with different stones so we will see how that goes!
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#3
I buy everything I can from meadowbrook...pretty quick ship too....
Yea I have used them for many years, I really miss the 12v 3amp NOS alternators and Ball bearing crankshafts for like $50 bucks a piece shipped! Seems like they just blow out their old dead stock.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#4
nice markus, like to see a better picture of that old dial bore gauge. if you do need to open the bore another .003 ? i find trying to use fine stones takes a lot more effort in a steel bore over a aluminum bore. i try to get it closer to .001+ then go with a fine stone. but maybe just be safe and spin away little longer with the fine stones until you get it where you need it....:scooter:
 

Addicted 2 Minis

Well-Known Member
#5
I had a friend in my high school's small engine shop class who tried to bore an engine out with a berry bush hone. He took it home over the weekend and the following Monday when he brought it back to class, there were no berries left on the bush!, Hahahaha. @markus I saw some H35 crankshafts on eBay a while back, they had a John Deere part number and were $60 shipped.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#6
I had a friend in my high school's small engine shop class who tried to bore an engine out with a berry bush hone. He took it home over the weekend and the following Monday when he brought it back to class, there were no berries left on the bush!, Hahahaha. @markus I saw some H35 crankshafts on eBay a while back, they had a John Deere part number and were $60 shipped.
thats just funny.....:D ball style are only good for quick hones that the bore is still square and only has a glaze on them. i guess it's to late to tell your buddy.....LOL
i have found couple external lighted coils for tecumseh's with john deere part numbers on them before.
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#7
Yea I have used them for many years, I really miss the 12v 3amp NOS alternators and Ball bearing crankshafts for like $50 bucks a piece shipped! Seems like they just blow out their old dead stock.
really need to pickup a lathe markus and learn how to use one and then you will have endless amount of bearing cranks.... thumb1.PNG and you could really stay busy rebuilding bearing motors and do lot better job then that ron guy. man he's got some crude ways of doing things and people still pay him....lol
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#8
I had a friend in my high school's small engine shop class who tried to bore an engine out with a berry bush hone. He took it home over the weekend and the following Monday when he brought it back to class, there were no berries left on the bush!, Hahahaha. @markus I saw some H35 crankshafts on eBay a while back, they had a John Deere part number and were $60 shipped.

got a link or or JD numbers for those shafts? Could use some! 5/8" and 3/4" PTO outputs needed.
 
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