Fox Campus Rolling Chassis - Instead of Parting out as Listed Originally

#1
I've assembled a rolling chassis for the Fox Campus Minibike rather than the separate part listing as previously posted.
The asking price on the pictured assembly is $200.00 OBO. Pick up only. I'm in Lexington, KY near Man O'War Blvd.
The frame needs repair at the jack shaft mounts. Also, the frame shows some non-factory welds. Close up pics can be viewed on my parts listing!
Questions welcome!
 

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#3
I understand. The cost of shipping the little scoot would equal or exceed the price/value.

Every other month I drive to Northern Ohio. I travel I75 into Ohio then I71 So anyone/buyer interested in this minibike along I71 clean into Cleveland could possibly work out a deal to meet up.
 
#4
It looks like no takers on my offer to sell, so I decided to finish the project. One of the most perplexing things I delt with is the worn-out openings and misalignment of the original jackshaft mounts on this frame. I finally gave up and installed a weld on jackshaft mount and adjustable jackshaft bearing mount. Next is the engine and associated parts.
Weld on Jack Shaft.jpg Weld on Jackshaft.jpg
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#5
Start you a new thread in the project's and rides section. I'm glad you are going to revive it, sometimes they can be a pain but I think you'll enjoy it when you're done. Please keep us updated on your progress.
So far it looks good.
 
#6
It looks like no takers on my offer to sell, so I decided to finish the project. One of the most perplexing things I delt with is the worn-out openings and misalignment of the original jackshaft mounts on this frame. I finally gave up and installed a weld on jackshaft mount and adjustable jackshaft bearing mount. Next is the engine and associated parts.
View attachment 301351 View attachment 301352
On a swingarm bike, a jackshaft needs to be as close to the swingarm pivot as possible (ideally, the jackshaft would be the swingarm pivot). You should be able to draw a straight line through the jackshaft, swingarm pivot and the rear axle when the suspension is in the middle of its travel. With your jackshaft being so high, chain slack will vary greatly with suspension travel, the chain will become slack when the suspension is compressed and will tighten when the suspension is extended. With this geometry, you will need a spring-loaded chain tensioner on the bottom run of the chain at the very least but it would need a lot of range to compensate for the varying distance between the jackshaft and axle. Before you go further, I suggest you put a chain on it and move the swingarm through its range of motion (remove the shocks to make it easy), and decide if the chain slack problem is something you can deal with. If you don't yet have a chain, measure the distance between the jackshaft and the axle with the suspension compressed and extended.
 
#7
On a swingarm bike, a jackshaft needs to be as close to the swingarm pivot as possible (ideally, the jackshaft would be the swingarm pivot). You should be able to draw a straight line through the jackshaft, swingarm pivot and the rear axle when the suspension is in the middle of its travel. With your jackshaft being so high, chain slack will vary greatly with suspension travel, the chain will become slack when the suspension is compressed and will tighten when the suspension is extended. With this geometry, you will need a spring-loaded chain tensioner on the bottom run of the chain at the very least but it would need a lot of range to compensate for the varying distance between the jackshaft and axle. Before you go further, I suggest you put a chain on it and move the swingarm through its range of motion (remove the shocks to make it easy), and decide if the chain slack problem is something you can deal with. If you don't yet have a chain, measure the distance between the jackshaft and the axle with the suspension compressed and extended.
Many thanks for your advice! Once I get the chain I will report back as to the slack or lack thereof as indicated. I need to move this topic to projects and rides section.
 
#8
I have to share what was found for me. Some longtime friends visiting a surplus store in Shelby, Ohio found new Briggs snowmobile engines.
So, I now have a new 4 hp. 3/4 shaft Briggs snowmobile engine for my project. I happen to have a new carb for a recent bike I sold, 1970 Honda 90. Oddly enough the carb will bolt right up to the Briggs manifold! Only mod is I have to drill out the mounting threads on the carb. I will post pics as soon as I'm done with the mount up. What excites me is the Honda carb eliminates the need to figure out a throttle system.
We will see what happens. Oh, the store? Glens Surplus. The website is their name without a space dot com. So, we have two questions coming up. 1.) Will the jackshaft configuration work using stiff external shock springs (reduce swing arm motion)? 2.) Can a Honda 90 carb be used on a Briggs engine? Glad to finally get back to the little scoot.
 
#10
My surplus Briggs Snowmobile engine on my scoot. I have to once again state that my progress with this minibike is dog slow and somewhat experimental. I pulled the crank cover off and removed the governor mechanism as well as the stand tube for the oil dipstick. No need for the dipstick on the scoot unlike when the engine was buried in the chassis of the snowblower application.

The crankshaft is too long as well. I will cut to size once I fit the clutch. I need a small fuel tank as well. Hopefully by mid-September she will be done. 7 24 23 bike with new motor 1.jpg 7 24 23 bike with new motor.jpg
 
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