Brand new 224 predator with aluminum fly wheel only reaches 20??

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BrownStainRacing

Well-Known Member
#41
#41
Blamejefe said:
Allot of work for it to not do what i want so what do you think the issue is here?
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Did you check those heads bolts and valve lash, i mentioned earlier. A loose head gasket will make it feel weak, also too tight of valve lash. I don't trust any of these engines outta the box. I learned to take em outta the box, throw em on the work bench and pull em apart, and set em the way they should be. I've had to put new top rings in some, cas ring end gap was too much. Check those bolts and torq them to spec. I still think it's a clutch problem.
BTW, I have 1 of those flywheels. I forgot how I ended up with it.
 
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Blamejefe

Member
#42
#42
BrownStainRacing said:
Did you check those heads bolts and valve lash, i mentioned earlier. A loose head gasket will make it feel weak, also too tight of valve lash. I don't trust any of these engines outta the box. I learned to take em outta the box, throw em on the work bench and pull em apart, and set em the way they should be. I've had to put new top rings in some, cas ring end gap was too much. Check those bolts and torq them to spec. I still think it's a clutch problem.
BTW, I have 1 of those flywheels. I forgot how I ended up with it.
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I havnt but i will
 
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BrownStainRacing

Well-Known Member
#46
#46
Blamejefe said:
Oh sweet and i think im gonna remove the governor soon and fine tune gearing
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Don't remove the gov unless you are planning on drag race ONLY. my buddy does 64+mph with gov at 5300 rpm, with a stock style rod. he runs the roads, trails, hill climbs, gravel roads, goes anywhere and everywhere, but it's not a stock 224. My son's 212 ducar runs 55+, goes everywhere with stock rod and gov'ed at 5300. Again not stock. My 224 is way too fast for my weight and the brakes. perfectly fine 40+ on the trails, but too dangerous on curvey, hilly roads with those stock brakes. it's not a stock 224, no gov, and a total p.i.t.a, to clearance the block for a billet rod. That 58mm crank takes up alot room in the crankcase. I spent 3 or 4 days jus checking for .030" clearances, crank, block, cam, rod, had the bottom end together and apart over 10 times. It's not for a inexperienced engine builder.
That 224 makes a ton of power with the gov still working, jus gotta get the right combo of parts to work together.
Take your time and learn as much as you can. It's real easy to go the wrong way with these lil turd motors.
 
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Blamejefe

Member
#47
#47
BrownStainRacing said:
Don't remove the gov unless you are planning on drag race ONLY. my buddy does 64+mph with gov at 5300 rpm, with a stock style rod. he runs the roads, trails, hill climbs, gravel roads, goes anywhere and everywhere, but it's not a stock 224. My son's 212 ducar runs 55+, goes everywhere with stock rod and gov'ed at 5300. Again not stock. My 224 is way too fast for my weight and the brakes. perfectly fine 40+ on the trails, but too dangerous on curvey, hilly roads with those stock brakes. it's not a stock 224, no gov, and a total p.i.t.a, to clearance the block for a billet rod. That 58mm crank takes up alot room in the crankcase. I spent 3 or 4 days jus checking for .030" clearances, crank, block, cam, rod, had the bottom end together and apart over 10 times. It's not for a inexperienced engine builder.
That 224 makes a ton of power with the gov still working, jus gotta get the right combo of parts to work together.
Take your time and learn as much as you can. It's real easy to go the wrong way with these lil turd motors.
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So how do i change my govenor to be set at different rpms
 
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BrownStainRacing

Well-Known Member
#48
#48
Blamejefe said:
So how do i change my govenor to be set at different rpms
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There's more to it then jus setting it. Gotta take the engine apart and start with the crank. Cleaning up area around the journal, setting clearances and making sure every part is right. Crank and cam end play, piston to head, piston to cylinder, ring end gaps, measuring compression ratio, ignition timing with a degree wheel and dial indicator, more of blue printing, measuring again and again, porting the head, cleaning up the ports, runners and combustion chambers, gasket matching, cam timing events, the list goes on and on, before i can tell you how to adjust the gov. Theres more to it then jus setting it. We will wait for that and see how happy you are when it's turning 4500 with the gov.
When I got the 1st 224, still on my bike now, with jus a simple head gasket change .027" thick, crank and cam endplay at.010", a pvl flywheel with ignition timing set at 26 degrees, a .031" main jet in the stock carb, running the stock air box, filter, muffler it turned 4900 with the gov, and over 40 mph with a 20" tire and 5.55:1 gear and tav. After beating on it for 2 or 3 months, I tore it back down and rebuilt it with a better combo of parts. Now it's jus stupid fast outta the hole, and I would have to look at my build sheet to get all the measurements, lol.
But anyways, we can get you to 4500 with what you got and go from there.
 
B

Blamejefe

Member
#49
#49
BrownStainRacing said:
There's more to it then jus setting it. Gotta take the engine apart and start with the crank. Cleaning up area around the journal, setting clearances and making sure every part is right. Crank and cam end play, piston to head, piston to cylinder, ring end gaps, measuring compression ratio, ignition timing with a degree wheel and dial indicator, more of blue printing, measuring again and again, porting the head, cleaning up the ports, runners and combustion chambers, gasket matching, cam timing events, the list goes on and on, before i can tell you how to adjust the gov. Theres more to it then jus setting it. We will wait for that and see how happy you are when it's turning 4500 with the gov.
When I got the 1st 224, still on my bike now, with jus a simple head gasket change .027" thick, crank and cam endplay at.010", a pvl flywheel with ignition timing set at 26 degrees, a .031" main jet in the stock carb, running the stock air box, filter, muffler it turned 4900 with the gov, and over 40 mph with a 20" tire and 5.55:1 gear and tav. After beating on it for 2 or 3 months, I tore it back down and rebuilt it with a better combo of parts. Now it's jus stupid fast outta the hole, and I would have to look at my build sheet to get all the measurements, lol.
But anyways, we can get you to 4500 with what you got and go from there.
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Sweet and also i am trying to drag eace them
 
Thepaetsguy

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#56
#56
Blamejefe said:
Sweet thank you
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The two best running engines I ever will own backfire on decel so loud it’s glorious.. never been a problem for the three seasons I have ran it. On the flip side I think it gave me tinnitus or whatever that ear ringing deal is... so ear protection people. if you don’t intend to tape a dog whistle to your ears for the next life then ear protection... edit: gunshot tune
 
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BrownStainRacing

Well-Known Member
#57
#57
Blamejefe said:
a few people told me my flywheels reving up to the governed rpms too fast so then im stuck going 20 does that make sense
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I swapped flywheels today on the turd 196. Gapped stock coil at .045". It fired right up on 1st pull. It hits 4200 rpm and 23 mph faster now, I'd say about 10-15 ft sooner, then it did yesterday. It actually spins the tire in gravel with me on it, jus for a bit on take off. I know it's never done that with me before, lol. I'm sure it lost 2-4 degrees of ignition timing with stock key, but I'm not worried about that, it's jus a stock low compression engine anyway, so It don't need any more timing.
I DO NOT see any changes to the stall rpm, governor rpm, or top speed, it jus gets there in less distance. That's jus because the lighter flywheel takes a bunch of weight off the crank.
 

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BrownStainRacing

Well-Known Member
#58
#58
Blamejefe said:
Sweet thank you
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Check where your rod is pointing. The rod, under tank, coming out of top of block with the gov arm attached. It may have moved not allowing more rpm. I havnt seen 1 move, but I'm sure it's possibly. Looks like the notch, or cutout of the rod is pointed straight with the crank. Look at these pics and see if yours is close, while the throttle, twist grip is in idle position, the carb throttle lever was about 3/4 the way open. Both the 196, and my son's 212 ducar were the same. Jus something to check, or something else, I should say. Lol
 

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massacre

massacre

#59
#59
Blamejefe said:
Rider weight 160
Rear tire 6in
Fron tooth 12 rear tooth 70
No rear brake
Not sure if clutch is engaging to early
This is ridiculous ive seen them get governed at 36 out of box qnd mine only goes 20 someone mentioned maybe my gap was too big smh
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Again-
Don't worry about the top speed.
Not sure when this trend started, but it needs to go away.
You need to make sure your engine is running correctly first.
Do you have a tachometer? If not not i would recommend one

Once you know the engine is fine, then you can start looking elsewhere for your problem. Process of elimination.
 
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