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I’ve had this work and had them not work. Obviously, it all depends on how wedged in there the broken tap is. If it’s been hammered on, etc. , it’s not likely to work. Heating the tap cherry red and letting it cool to anneal is sometimes a good strategy. Sucks in any case! :p

Same!

Motorized bicycle might be the way to go. If you look for Mustie1 on YouTube, he’s got some interesting builds using engines of that type.

No question, they are fantastic for the money. They just don’t have that vintage look, so I use them as suits my tastes.

I believe this crank was already tapped, but it’s not hard to tap an HS-series Tecumseh crank. I just drain the oil, lay it on the recoil starter, and drill it with the drill press. The crank is cast iron, so it drills and taps pretty easily, and the recoil starter surface is pretty...

I like to use Tecumsehs on vintage bikes I put together, but that said, don’t think Predator and other Chinese Honda clone engines are necessarily crap. I like to use those on later model Chinese bikes when I redo them. That said, I have put a US made Tec engine on a Chinese bike once or...

It’s been on the back burner for awhile… I needed to use the fuel tank and bracket seen in the original picture on another project. That necessitated me reworking the original rear facing bracket into a forward facing one so I could use the original tank. This engine also had a weird throttle...

Looks like that one has had a bit more modern-day modding done to it, but has lots of potential! I’ve made some progress on mine since getting it, mostly in adding a Tecumseh HS50 snowblower engine and cosmetics. The Azusa Tristar wheels are indeed wobblers…:( At least 1/8” of runout; I’m...

Looks like Suzuki GS450 wheels…:) Maybe a BSA OIF tank?

I’ve used Tecumseh H50 engines in the old DB30 Doodlebug frames, and they look and work great as well.

You can always clean the master link and apply a dab of silicone to the clip as a little extra insurance.

Interesting. Still, looks like I can save a dollar or two by doing a 1/2” axle conversion, being that the roached-out Doodlebug I’m putting my scrap riding mower wheel on didn’t come with an axle either.

I saw that, and it looks perfect. However, I became a bit leery when I saw them advertised as 6202 bearings (which have a 15mm ID). Probably not going to risk getting actual 6202 bearings… I think the solution I’m going with is using a 1/2” axle bolt and upsizing the holes in the fork ever so...

That’s a good idea, though it does leave about .03” of extra diametrical clearance. That may or may not be noticeable, but would be hard to tell without trying it. I guess yet another option is to use those bearings and use a 1/2” axle. It wouldn’t be as big a hole enlargement as using the...

Does anyone know of an inexpensive bearing option to use to mount a vintage-style wheel (with 1-3/8” center hole) to a newer-style (Chinese) mini bike with 12mm axles? Essentially, this would be a 12mm ID by 35mm OD by probably 10-11mm thick bearing, though the thickness isn’t really...

Maybe Taiwanese, or some sort of mutt? Hmmm…

Chain guard says Ruttman, front wheel looks like Ruttman, but not sure that it is…

25.4 (mm per inch) x .625” = 15.875mm You might want to measure to be sure of your axle diameter.

Offers?

Fuel in the oil is usually a bad float needle in the carb. This is usually something that happens as it’s sitting. If the petcock is on and the float needle is bad, fuel can leak past the carb into the intake. You didn’t mention if you’d checked your valve clearances. Improperly adjusted...