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Thanks Ole

I have two new 14cc JT-07 clone heads that have been ported and polished. One has 28.5mm intake and 25mm exhaust valves, the other has 27mm intake and 25mm exhaust valves. Ports have a sand blasted finish, combustion chamber unshrouded and polished, & cut multi angle valve seats. Comes with all...

I have a new 14cc head with 27/24 valves that has been ported and flow tested. PM me if interested.

I would look at something like a muffler from a pit bike or small motorcycle. They're relatively cheap and should be able to fit up easily with a small adapter.

They use real Mikuni pilots and jets. As far as I know it's just an OEM piece that Suzuki uses on some of their older bikes, not a dedicated aftermarket carb, and that's why they're cheaper. I get all the jets I need for it from the local Suzuki dealer, they have boxes full of them.

Yes the bolt holds are different, plus you need some type of manifold to transition from the round outlet in the back of the carb to the D-shaped inlet to the port of the head. Most vendors have a kit with the carb, manifold, and air filter priced right around $100.

Thanks Ole. I opened up the CSA on them proportionally, went from about .7 to .8 sqin. I'm hoping for the mid 80s but we'll see once I get it on the bench. I have another 27mm head I'm about halfway done with now. Been thinking about sending it over to you once it's done. I figured you can...

I have two done up in the garage now, I haven't had a chance to flow test them yet. Hoping to have time to one day after work this week.

The video does a fine job of explaining how to set lash. Except on a hemi the adjuster is at the end of the rocker instead of the middle. Still the same procedure though. IMO if you do not know how to properly set lash then you should slow down on the mods. Get yourself an engine shop manual...

IMO a .060 crank is not even worth it for what is basically a welded and reground stock crankshaft. I would get a billet .175 or not at all. Do you have the rest of the package to back up the increased displacement? You said you have a race head but what has been done to it and how much does...

Sold!

You can have a head that flows too much for your desired RPM range. Look at the equation Ole posted above and you can get a good idea. Having a head that flows more than that is just going to move you powerband up out of your desired RPM.

Great thanks guys, sounds like I should shoot for the mid 80's on the next one. Ole I haven't actually tested my bench with a calibration plate. Any idea where I can pick one up for a good price? But from what I've seen of others numbers for stock heads it seems to be good. I get repeatable...

MCSA is around 0.70 sqin, I didn't enlarge the port that much, just the bowl and SSR work, then some chamber work and valve job. Around 105 CFM per sqin. Any body care to share what they've been able to get with larger valve sizes? I'm going to do a 28.5 next and need a goal to shoot for.

What kind of flow numbers are others seeing on their heads? I've been playing with 27mm intake valves recently and the last couple heads I've been topping out in the mid 70's for the CFM. Here's the flow data for the last head I did. Anybody have any tips to share or have I pretty much reached...

$150 shipped

I would agree. Unless you have the rest of the package to support a cam with that much lift you could do more harm then good. IMO an untouched stock head isn't good for much past .230 lift. Pick your parts to work together instead of grabbing parts randomly and hoping they work.

If you do end up going for a new carb I would look into something like this. It's a chinese copy of a Keihin PWK carb similar to the chinese copy of a Mikuni VM that every body uses. I've been having better luck with these recently. OKO 24mm Flat Side Carburetor for Honda ATV Dirt Bike Go...

You don't need pressure, this isn't a car with fuel injectors. All the pump needs to do is bring gas to the carb and then gravity will do the rest. By my the sound of things it seems like your having other issues. Ditch the fuel pump and fix your carb. Where did you buy the carb from and...

If you ran a return line back to the tank and you're still having an issue then that sounds like a carb problem to me. Once you have a return line the float bowl should stop flooding and of your still having problems it's likely in the jetting of the carb. Take the fuel pump out and put a...