Search results

Sometimes I have a problem where the trailing edge buttons fall out of the pulley at high speeds. I always put a very light dab of high temp silicone on them to convince them not to leave the party early.

As long as the other two buttons on the trailing edge are still good you should be okay. The reason they are there is when you are coasting, the pulley will rotate backward and if the spring can't hold the backtorque, the buttons on the backside of the pulley will limit the amount the pulley can...

To add a noticeable amount of top-end rpm, you need to mess around with the weights and springs in the driver unit. Changing the Driven spring position WILL affect your rpm a little, but it mostly changes the belt tension.

What are you trying to do with the bike? Do you want 5000rpm or do you just want to go faster?

I'm so glad I finally found this version on Youtube. I have it on CD in my shop but I could never find the full 12 minute version online. Definitely in my top 5.

This? Pretty pricey for what it is. http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/99101-zh8-ajust.htm

The older non-hemis had a stronger crankcase. Just puttin that out there.

Your videos got freakin amazing since I've started watching you. I don't even fish but I still enjoy watching your videos!

I measured 1 extra degree Maybe this whole problem is caused by valve float and not air density? Maybe??

Kinda sounds to me like mild detonation. Does it only do that when it's hot?

https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/bungholio.49686/page-10#post-1182008

I've never seen that type of switch before!:p

If you want to drive the TAV like a glorified clutch, then yes, gear down the final drive ratio. I have two problems with that though. 1: When it gets into its highest overdrive ratio, the engine revs into its powerband and then you're stuck driving that speed just like if you ran a clutch...

Your problem lies completely with the TAV2. You need to change weights and garter springs in the torque convertor to "program" it to wait to shift until higher rpms. You'll need these: https://www.OldMiniBikes.com/-2-genuine-comet-aluminum-weights.html...

The problem is fixed now. I never officially measured the crank end play, but it shouldn't have changed since it was stock. You can "feel" and acceptable amount of play by hand so I'm not worried about it. It was caused by two problems: 1: The deck surface on the block was slightly warped...

Had this exact same thing happen to me on my 20HP Honda V-twin. My lash was a more reasonable 0.023" though.

I and many others always have to crack the throttle to start. The only reason you dont have to do this on a stock engine is because the governor does it for you.

I have the stock valve cover breather and a 1/4" x 3/8" hose coming out the governor hole both going to a homemade catch can. I only turn about 5500rpm max right now but when this gets sorted out I want to spin to about 6200rpm. I'm wondering if the catch can itself isn't vented enough. All it...

Now this might throw a wrench at the thread. The side cover gasket has most definitely left the building yet the head gasket is unscathed. I mean, it is perfect! Still has every little bit of Viton, squished perfectly flat, no scars or black stains on the head, deck, or gasket... I expected much...

I wonder if Hillary ever ran into this problem...