The plastic basket-looking side cover that keeps your pants leg out of the belt and fails horribly as a scatter-shield. The problem is that the bolt that goes thru the middle and holds it all together will suddenly break loose and back itself out and send the whole assembly flying.
It was a total standard install. Nothing fancy. I had the "predator washer" to shim it out, and the output shaft spacer, and it was straight as an arrow. Rolled totally smooth and easy. Worked great. It just would randomly decide to fly apart.
I dont have any of when it was all together. I could take one of it now, as it sits up on the bench, but Like I said, this last launching was without the benefit of any side cover, so I dont have the driver pulley assembly on there anymore. I never was able to find all of it....
Im going to have...
So.......I built a baja/predator combo with all the same junk on it everyone has(i.e. stage 1 kit, bsp3 cam, 18cc head , etc...) and i put a tav-2 torque converter on it. Love the low-end it gives me. However, I keep having this problem.... It keeps launching the driver unit up through the side...
Picked up a motor and am trying to I D it...
Its red (Honda?) and the head has JT- 04 - 06 - 16 stamped on it. Im guessing gx 160 clone (duh) but what else can i find out about it with these numbers? There are no other numbers or stickers visable on it
Took it apart, then put it together again. The pulley alignment is straight, and the chain isnt binding. The friction is being caused by the belt being stretched tight by the driven pulley pushing it all the way to the top. If i could just get it to open up a little , the belt would go down and...
I recently purchased a chinese knockoff Tav 2 for my predator212 mini bike. It was kind of a pain to install( had to raise the motor in the frame to clear the mounting plate and driven pully) but I got it on and working. Now when I roll the bike forward, the friction from the belt on the pullys...
I recently put a new cam and 1.3 ratio rockers on my predator 212cc motor. The compression release works and the valves are adjusted right. It starts after two or three pulls, but sometimes it yanks the cord out of my hand so hard its kinda scary.
I want to take my rtc6 head down to have it milled to increase the compression ratio. I want as much taken off as possible without having to shorten lifters or pushrods. Im hoping somebody might be able to tell me how much i should take off?
ok.........in your opinion- which would make more power-- the 14cc head or the rtc-6 milled down(something safe like .o5?) Do the slightly larger valves trump the added compression? Do they have similar flow characteristics?
oh, and while Im at it......does anyone know how small i could get the combustion chamber on the rtc-6 head by having it milled? since the rtc-6 has bigger valves, would a little porting plus milling make it a better head to use?
found out my rtc-6 valves wont fit in the new head.
Besides the 5.5mm stem valves, is there anything else I have to order to make this work? the spring perch looks different?
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