1" PTO Centrifugal Clutch Options?

[mustangfrank]

Researching clutches for a 10hp(+?) Tecumseh flathead with a 1" shaft going on one or another jackshaft frames I don't have original engines for. Not going to be racing, just a fun machine build. Have to run the sprocket inboard otherwise I can work with different tooth counts or chain. A quick search and I zeroed in on the Noram Star clutches, probably 15 tooth to get the needle bearings.

Just wondering if anyone has good experiences with any other clutches that would work, especially if less expensive that the $170(ish) Noram? I'm not a total cheapass, just used to using 30 buck Max-Torque clutches on my smaller PTO centrifugal engines, wish they made a 1" clutch! Should I just shut up and pay up?

Thx!

 

[pomfish]

Can't you run the jackshaft 1 to 1 ratio and then use 5/8" or 3/4" (whichever diameter jackshaft you are using) and use regular clutch mounted on the jackshaft?

Then you can really play with odd ratios as well.
This assumes you have height available off of frame.

 

[mustangfrank]

Can't you run the jackshaft 1 to 1 ratio and then use 5/8" or 3/4" (whichever diameter jackshaft you are using) and use regular clutch mounted on the jackshaft?

Then you can really play with odd ratios as well.
This assumes you have height available off of frame.

I like the way you think! My first choice of frame was a swingarm Bonanza which does not have the height (inboard) but I do have a pair of tall jackshaft plates I ordered for a repair job or measure for running the clutch outboard of the jackshaft plates. You got me thinking in a different way, I'm going to stare at 2nd choice MTD roller (10" wheel bike). That frame has the slant engine mount which I thought would be cool but I'm running the Power Sport carb mount (like the H engines) right up to the block, have to fab an intake.

 

[Phil1958]

why not pop out the crankshaft and turn it on a lathe to 3/4"???

 

[mustangfrank]

why not pop out the crankshaft and turn it on a lathe to 3/4"???

Good idea but beyond my shop skills and equipment, I'd have to pay the machinist so the expensive clutch is a bolt-on break even (almost). Had the same dilemma replacing a generator crank, turned the tapered crank down to 3/4" and he had to broach a 3/16" keyway opposite the existing 1/4" factory keyway. It worked fine with a TAV on a Super Bronc but it just looked frail before I hid it with the clutch.

What state are you in? I'll buy the beer and pizza for some machine shop time?

 

[Phil1958]

pm me if you want me to turn the crank.

i'd be happy to do it.

 

[mustangfrank]

pm me if you want me to turn the crank.

i'd be happy to do it.

Appreciate it, I still want to talk to you about those 8" wheel "spacers", I'm thinking of merging these two projects so I get at least one project out the door!

Can the 1/4" keyway be welded up before turning the crank down or am I just asking for trouble?

 

[Phil1958]

those crankshafts are cast iron and welding a key slot isnt worth it. besides a 1/4" slot is only 1/8" deep. if i turn the pto to 3/4" the slot will be pretty much gone. i would mill a new 3/16" key slot, not broach it.

 

[mustangfrank]

On a tangent @pomfish got me going on, the slant mount frame wouldn't be hard to adapt the float carb to with a slant carb adapter, might just have to drill for a through bolt. Capt. America is narrow for an HM but someone already ganked the clutch for a cycle sprocket, I'll have to mock it up tomorrow.