1972 Norton Chopper

#2
It should have a permanent magnet alternator on the drive side with two wires which will be ac. You can wire up a tympanum rectifier/regulator to get your regulated dc. What wires do you see?
 

novadose74

Well-Known Member
#3
It should have a permanent magnet alternator on the drive side with two wires which will be ac. You can wire up a tympanum rectifier/regulator to get your regulated dc. What wires do you see?
3C6BF430-F4EC-4106-823E-25D4733A7D53.jpeg FDBE5DAB-BBCA-4E24-9EC3-368D4F684428.jpeg F250B2B4-9072-483E-9961-ABA8959FE8F9.jpeg F9CA9A94-EC29-463F-B1C9-88B157DDB4C2.jpeg BC002BBE-BB57-4B11-BBCD-10A28D1CCF4E.jpeg 8503697B-F16B-4375-81A6-AAE7EAF1DE05.jpeg 1F4FDC77-1B82-47BF-B383-DF1F750980F9.jpeg These are old pics. The stator does have the two wires. I have the stop/brake/directional unit, have the headlight, key switch , electronic Boyer ignition, two new coils. That’s all I have.
 
#4
So you have a old selenium rectifier (the black thing with the plates and a zener diode which appears disconnected. The rectifier changes the ac to dc and the zener diode limits voltage to 13.5 volts. It may be a positive ground.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#5
That bike is sweeet !!
Look like old Invader wheels.
I would start completely over with all new wire ect, with also soldering & heat shrinking every connector. ;)
 

delray

Well-Known Member
#6
very cool bike. it reminds me of my uncle's chopper in the early 80's. he had the same rims too. his bike was setup with I believe a honda motor. one thing I remember he had a sword welded on the backseat pointing down and all of it was chrome plated.
 

novadose74

Well-Known Member
#7
That bike is sweeet !!
Look like old Invader wheels.
I would start completely over with all new wire ect, with also soldering & heat shrinking every connector. ;)
This is my problem. I don’t know where the wires should go. I’ve looked online at the schematics, but there seems to be so many variations that I don’t know which one applies to that bike. What I need is someone to tell me what wire goes where. I can do the connections and run wires, that’s not the issue, it’s where everything goes! Lol.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#12
Why do you think all the beer is warm in England ?
Lucas made all the fridge's. ''LOL'' !!!!!!!!!!!!!. :p

I do love old classic British stuff though, & worked on ''tons'' of it throughout my career ect..
My first street bike was a 66 Triumph TR6C, & my first car was a 69 Triumph GT6+.
I
 

PatrickCraik

Well-Known Member
#13
Why do you think all the beer is warm in England ?
Lucas made all the fridge's. ''LOL'' !!!!!!!!!!!!!. :p

I do love old classic British stuff though, & worked on ''tons'' of it throughout my career ect..
My first street bike was a 66 Triumph TR6C, & my first car was a 69 Triumph GT6+.
I
LOL!!
 
#14
So you will have a headlight w/ hi/lo, a tailight with running and stop, no turn signals, ignition sw and handlebar sw for kill and hi/ lo correct?
 
#16
So I had a way that I used to wire up my british BSA's They were flattrackers that I modified for the street with the simplest wiring. The one pictured below only had a kill button on the handlebar, a three way switch on the headlight for off, lowbeam, and highbeam. This picture shows the minimal wiring. The 12V ac pair as well as the brake light and brake switch output go into the black harness up to the back of the seat where a tympainum regulator/rectifier was mounted and a capacitor which replaced having a battery. From there the DC returned to go to the headlight and taillight and ignition. In your case you may need a small battery as the boyer looks like the battery version. I looked online and they do have a batteryless version for dirt bikes but yours is not that kind. I can draw you a simple diagram but if you want that ignition switch in the picture you need to show me how many terminals and positions it has and what is N/O and N/C in each key position. I do not have any experience with directional so you would be on your own. PICT0051.JPG
 
#18
Directionals are pretty easy, I just finished figuring out a setup for that.
If you need hazard lights as well, it’s a little more complicated.
I ended up following this diagram, it worked out really well.

 
#19
If you just need directionals, follow this diagram, eliminating the park light feature. Or keep it, but you would need dual filament bulbs and I didn’t want to use 1157 bulbs, too big for a mini bike imho.



So you just put fused power to the flasher, then out of flasher to middle position on the blinker switch.
Then from blinker switch to single filament lights, and then ground them.
 
#20
I also bought a small fuse panel, pretty cheap and small enough to mount on the bike


I used an 8 circuit but they make all different sizes so you could run one with 4 circuits and it would be way smaller.
 
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