20w-50 oil ok in clone engine?

#1
Has anyone run 20w-50 in their clone engine? With very hot weather finally here I thought it might be a good idea to run some of my amzoil 20-50 in the lifan 6.5. I'm sure the engine will be taking more of a beating than it would on a log-splitter or generator and we have some 100 degree days here once in a while. My thinking is: let it warm up for a good 5 minutes before riding. I remember reading somewhere that the engines last longer under severe use
when a heavier oil is used. I'm just concerned with oil flow getting to critical engine parts. I know that a thinner oil is better for speed but I wont be racing. I tried a test run with the engine thoroughly warmed and I didnt notice any reduction in speed. At this point the engine is completely stock.
Waddaya think?
 

Kenny1

New Member
#2
Hey man. I'm getting ready to put a 6.5 clone on a prefab mini kit. I am gonna run the recommended 10w30 for a breif break-in and then drop to a
0w20. We get into the 100's for a couple weeks at a time around here in the summer. Never had a problem with thin oil in anything I have ever owned. Just make sure to keep an eye on the level since it can blow by easier than the heavier weights.


Keep the rubber side down.
 
#3
I'm sure you wont have any problems. I just read on some go-kart website a while back that the engines they ran with a slightly heavier oil lasted longer. By sightly heavier they meant 5w-40 , 10w-40 etc. They made no mention of 20w-50, however, probably because it would'nt be a good choice for speed applications. I'm just wondering if the 20-50 will provide adequate lubrication. I think it should because the military uses straight 50 weight in all of their air-cooled equipent for durability reasons. They use Briggs engines among others. The go-kart website article was about the blue clones.
 
#4
I recommend staying away from the 20w50. Engine uses splash lubrication and 20w50 is thick. Something else to think about is all the extra energy you will waste by trying to move that "mud" in the crankcase. Get some 10w30 Mobil 1 or something along those lines.
 
#5
The briggs flatheads we used in aerospace ground equipment when I was in the U.S. Airforce were also splash lubricated and they were run with straight 50 weight oil in the crankcase. I was just curious if oiling would be different in an overhead valve engine. My
IMZ sidecar motorcycle is splash and pressure lubed and calls for 20w-50. I know the military wasn't concerned about saving energy, just engine longevity. They also found the engines to last longer with heavier oil. I just happened to have some extra amsoil
20w-50 and thought it would be good for the summer. I'm willing to sacrifice some speed
in return for a longer lasting engine as long as I don't screw anything up in the process.
The military made sure the engines were completely warmed-up before a load was applied to them.( because they were splash lubed) and then ran them all day in 100+ degree temperatures out on the flight-line without any oil related failures. If I were racing, I'd use only amsoil or mobil1 10w-30 or 0w-30. Maybe even 0w-20! I just wondered if anyone else has used synth 20w-50 without problems.
 
#6
I recommend staying away from the 20w50. Engine uses splash lubrication and 20w50 is thick. Something else to think about is all the extra energy you will waste by trying to move that "mud" in the crankcase. Get some 10w30 Mobil 1 or something along those lines.
If your worried about the mud, then use Mobil 1 0w20. That's what I use, hot or cold.
 
#7
The briggs flatheads we used in aerospace ground equipment when I was in the U.S. Airforce were also splash lubricated and they were run with straight 50 weight oil in the crankcase. I was just curious if oiling would be different in an overhead valve engine. My
IMZ sidecar motorcycle is splash and pressure lubed and calls for 20w-50. I know the military wasn't concerned about saving energy, just engine longevity. They also found the engines to last longer with heavier oil. I just happened to have some extra amsoil
20w-50 and thought it would be good for the summer. I'm willing to sacrifice some speed
in return for a longer lasting engine as long as I don't screw anything up in the process.
The military made sure the engines were completely warmed-up before a load was applied to them.( because they were splash lubed) and then ran them all day in 100+ degree temperatures out on the flight-line without any oil related failures. If I were racing, I'd use only amsoil or mobil1 10w-30 or 0w-30. Maybe even 0w-20! I just wondered if anyone else has used synth 20w-50 without problems.
AN old school safe approach would be a 10w40.
 
#8
I agree. The best balance of speed and durability would probably be a good diesel rated
synthetic 10w,5w or 0w40 synthetic. They have a very robust additive package.
 
#9
ive run rotella in my lawnmower since i bought it new in 1994 and it has been very faithful. thicker oil=more lubrication [to a certain extent] thinner= rotation is more free
 
#10
rotella is the way to go in my mind. i have tones of it for my truck (2000 excursion with the 7.3 power stroke diesel) every time i change the oil in the clone its dark but not black but running straight 30 weight oil it comes out black every time.
 
#13
I run straight 30 wt in mine, in the winter months I'd run 10 w 30, for like snowblower applications, where snow may accumulate around the crankcase, causing the oil to thicken, here in Ohio, it don't get scorching hot in the summertime, so the extra thicker 50 wt really is not needed.
dave
 
#14
I'ts actually not needed at all, however in severe use applications such as minibike or go-kart use it's been observed that a heavier oil will contribute to a longer lasting engine.
 
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