212 predator stock rod strength

[TankforGod3]

I currently have the 212 predator with the hemi head and I have it modified to run 4500 rpms, keep in mind it still has the stock rod, now when I rode it before I ran about 5 miles usually wide open most of the time. Since my increase in rpms from 3600 to 4500 rpms will the stock rod be safe, I have seen multiple people say the stock rod is good to about 5500, will the stock rod be good to run 4500 rpms for longer periods of time, the governor is still in the engine, however it is modified to engage later so I can rev higher. I don't want to go run it and find out for myself because a blown engine or a rod to the back of the head don't sound fun. I don't really have money right now to buy a billet rod so I wanted to know if it is safe to run until I get money for a billet rod. I have read the thread about governor removal on OldMiniBikes but mine is still in and my rpms are kinda in between.

 

[Stangrcr1]

Ever heard the term "living on borrowed time"?

 

[Camjamsdad]

All that's gonna happen is a slight amount of aluminum will gall to the rod journal of the crank. Then it will build up. Then seize up. At that point is where the magic happens. Things disappear. Things like your money and possibly your life. In true magic fashion things can reappear, like pieces of metal in your body.

Or the wrist pin will pull out of the piston. Less common. But in my opinion the magnet will fly off the flywheel before the rod gives out.

 

[TankforGod3]

well I guess i'll be keeping my riding to a normal level and crank the rpms down to 3900 where I had it before. I ran it around on 3900 and it was fine (I didnt mean to put 3600 in first post) but still until I get a rod I should probably crank it down a little more

 

[Prowler08]

Why is it so different between Mini's and Karting?
We regularly race our motors to 6500rpms and have not had a problem with the stock rod...
The stock flywheel I wouldn't even use it as a paper weight...

 

[cheezy1]

It is like me saying... I am gonna kick you in the nuts. I may do it now....or in two years. But bet your last dollar..I will do it at some point. In other words...it is inevitable. Some are just luckier than others with it.

 

[OND]

It is like me saying... I am gonna kick you in the nuts. I may do it now....or in two years. But bet your last dollar..I will do it at some point. In other words...it is inevitable. Some are just luckier than others with it.

:laugh: RIFLMAO :laugh: It ain't easy ..being cheezy !!!!

 

[Prowler08]

all I am saying is that for all the kart racers racing the stock rod it sure seems that they last quite well.
And for replacing a stock rod now and then is cheap enough insurance...

 

[CarPlayLB]

The BSP motors that OldMiniBikes sells don't have the billet rod, but they do have the billet flywheel option.

Here is my naive rational...if the motor is $100, and a billet rod swap would cost around $100 ($80 for the rod, plus gaskets)...doesn't that make the motor disposable?

 

[cheezy1]

all I am saying is that for all the kart racers racing the stock rod it sure seems that they last quite well.
And for replacing a stock rod now and then is cheap enough insurance...

Last guy that said that to me...later asked if I had a spare short block that wasn't in pieces. Oh...and a spare billet rod to buy. But to each their own. All else fails..refer to my prior comment.:laugh:

 

[youngengines]

The thing is, the clearance specs vary in any mass produced engine. If the engine has enough clearance it will last at higher rpms longer, if not its gonna fail. Our stocker kart builds have the clearance set to race. If yours hasn't been in to, then its a gamble. Most likely if it doesn't have enough clearance and starts to fail, you will "feel" it loosing power before it breaks... that's what I have experienced when I had stock rods.

 

[TankforGod3]

My friend gave me a black mamba jr cam and some springs so when I crack open the casing to install them ill check the clearance, and maybe fiddle with the governor some more until I can buy a rod and flywheel and just remove it.

 

[youngengines]

My friend gave me a black mamba jr cam and some springs so when I crack open the casing to install them ill check the clearance, and maybe fiddle with the governor some more until I can buy a rod and flywheel and just remove it.

I would get a rod and flywheel as soon as possible.. then you should be go to go for a long time. Anything can break, but the chances of the billet rod or flywheel giving problems are very slim. I have yet to have a problem with a arc rod or flywheel..I have broke a couple wrist pins, but they were the .490 pins in the wiseco pistons..no problems at all with the stock piston/pins...and I have punished them.