64 Briggs Powered Schwinn

[Havasu Dave]

Dave,
Your builds are some of the most interesting to watch on this forum, and this one is no exception! I believe that I can speak for (many) others when I say we all wait to see what unique things that you come up with next- we are watching this build with popcorn in hand...
Michael

Michael, At some level, most of us have a need for recognition by their fellow human, and I humbly thank you for that. For the last few years I have been trying to do bikes for my own enjoyment. This particular project is just something I always wanted to do. In researching it, I found some very talented people out there whose work is well beyond my abilities. Many of those people, including yourself and others on this forum have taught me a lot about welding, and construction, and engine building. I believe we are all capable of creating wonderful and beautiful things.

 

[Minimichael]

All of your welds from back to front and at the engine plate, pegs and front tube look incredible. Really nice transitions and everything. And with the jack shaft tabs and all, I can practically hear the sigh of relief I'd be making if that were my project. Super impressive, dude.

 

[Havasu Dave]

All of your welds from back to front and at the engine plate, pegs and front tube look incredible. Really nice transitions and everything. And with the jack shaft tabs and all, I can practically hear the sigh of relief I'd be making if that were my project. Super impressive, dude.

Lol, sigh of relief for sure. This TIG puts a lot more heat in to the metal, and I'm not used to compensating for that. Thanks for your kind words.

 

[sparkwizard]

Your results look fantastic. You caught onto that TIG really fast.
That really is a great looking project.

 

[massacre]

To me, the jack shaft tab welds look overheated. But it could also just be the lighting of the picture. HAZ looks very big and that grey color usually means overheated metal. Just imho

 

[Havasu Dave]

To me, the jack shaft tab welds look overheated. But it could also just be the lighting of the picture. HAZ looks very big and that grey color usually means overheated metal. Just imho

For sure. The entire tab where it gets skinny was cherry red. I'm using 1/16th and this was at 70 amps. With my helmet on, I don't see the surrounding heat. Oh and I consider a successful weld, one where I go to the grinder and the wheel has actually stopped from the last time I was at the grinder after dipping.

 

[sparkwizard]

Maybe you already posted it and I missed it...have you decided what to install between the PTO and the jackshaft?
I did see that you mentioned a belt clutch.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Maybe you already posted it and I missed it...have you decided what to install between the PTO and the jackshaft? I did see that you mentioned a belt clutch.

Primary will be a Comet 20. I like what they do for taller final drive ratios, and tall tires.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Went with vintage Schwinn middleweight bars. Fabricated a belt guard. Sheesh. It was so difficult with a TIG. No excuses. I also cut down some vintage kid's bike cranks, and welded them into the tubing. Repop pedals screwed in, they spin around. Figured I'd keep it bicycle.

 

[RobertC]

Dang that's looking cool Dave !

That forward positioning of the foot rests looks comfortable.

And with the spin, you can still flex your ankle like on a footpeg.

 

[sparkwizard]

I absolutely love your pedal idea! Very creative and so correct. Nice, simple belt guard, too.
It looks like you might be capable of some good speed on your "downhill both ways" cruises.

 

[Tanshanomi]

I am loving that Monark springer. I wasn’t familiar with them. The fat-tire Mega version could be great for my next homebuilt motorbike. I might have to steal your upgraded bushing configuration.

 

[massacre]

Dave, are you using a regular TIG cup? Or a gas lens?

 

[Havasu Dave]

Dang that's looking cool Dave !

That forward positioning of the foot rests looks comfortable.

And with the spin, you can still flex your ankle like on a footpeg.

Thank you Robert. When I sat on it and placed my feet on the pedals, I experienced a desire to actually pedal!

I am loving that Monark springer. I wasn’t familiar with them. The fat-tire Mega version could be great for my next homebuilt motorbike. I might have to steal your upgraded bushing configuration.

They definitely need the bushings. Original, is a brass insert, and two plastic bearings. I accidently faced two of the bushings slightly proud, and when I torque the nuts down, the bushings still float. I was unable to make that "error" on the other two. Lock nuts a must, and I need two longer bolts. The forks are kind of wobbly- there is some slop there. Vendor is great to deal with. And copy is the highest form of flattery! I certainly scoured the web looking for ideas!

Dave, are you using a regular TIG cup? Or a gas lens?

A regular cup. A #6. I went down to a #5 and felt better. Using 3/32 on the heavier stuff. I am constantly out of shape, straining, shaking, blind, etc. (grin) I did order a #17 kit from Weldmonger. About $200 including some more tungstin. Includes a couple of lenses, and a clear cup. Thank you for not pointing out my errors! LOL, there are a couple of places where I made really nice welds. Like "two."

 

[Havasu Dave]

I absolutely love your pedal idea! Very creative and so correct. Nice, simple belt guard, too.
It looks like you might be capable of some good speed on your "downhill both ways" cruises.

Thanks! I believe it's going to be overpowered. Sitting on it, it feels very much like a bicycle.

 

[massacre]

A regular cup. A #6. I went down to a #5 and felt better. Using 3/32 on the heavier stuff. I am constantly out of shape, straining, shaking, blind, etc. (grin) I did order a #17 kit from Weldmonger. About $200 including some more tungstin. Includes a couple of lenses, and a clear cup. Thank you for not pointing out my errors! LOL, there are a couple of places where I made really nice welds. Like "two."

I think you will see a difference with a gas lens. Better gas coverage. You can stick the tungsten out further.
I have just a regular steel folding chair that i use when i TIG weld. Sitting down and resting hands is half the battle.
Couple of clamps and some 2x4s can make a nice place to rest your wrists on. Especially in the beginning phase of learning.
Are you running enough gas?

 

[Minimichael]

It's starting to look built-for-speed, too.

 

[Havasu Dave]

I think you will see a difference with a gas lens. Better gas coverage. You can stick the tungsten out further.
I have just a regular steel folding chair that i use when i TIG weld. Sitting down and resting hands is half the battle.
Couple of clamps and some 2x4s can make a nice place to rest your wrists on. Especially in the beginning phase of learning.
Are you running enough gas?

Thank you for the tips. I was definitely running enough gas. Improper cleaning in some cases. LOL, I am sure you are aware of the many things I could be and probably am, doing wrong. At least those wrong things will become habits.

 

[ZR9B]

What a great build, your motivation and imagination are in a groove! Love the pedals.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Took it for a test ride, very pleased with it. While doing this one, I have also been working on getting things together for the next one. Pictured here is a vintage Rupp Grimeca complete hub I got from Bobco. Using 3mm spokes, I did a Cross Three pattern to a Schwinn Stingray rear rim, called an S2. This will sport a 3" wide slick. This is a bicycle 20", but in reality it is a 16" and I did this for the robust hub and brake, as well as retaining a rim that would take a Schwinn slick. Should provide a hint as to what my next one will be.