Any tips or secrets to removing the fork bushings on my '67 Rupp Continental? I don't want to bugger something up that is hard or impossible to fix. I've soaked them with PB Blaster, but they are not budging. Just get a bigger hammer? And...if I get that far, any tips on re-installing the new ones? - Mike
'67 Continental- steering fork bushings
- Thread starter mroesch
- Start date
- Tags bushings continental- fork steering
It depends on the ID of your tubing / OD of the bushing. On my Bonanza the tubing ID of the neck is 3/4" - about the same diameter as an ordinary 1/4" flat washer. I ended up grinding flats on each side so the width was 5/8" and it would drop down past the upper bushing and rest on the lower bushing. About 5 whacks with the hammer and it dropped right out.
I pressed the new ones in with a pipe clamp just like this:
Lots of other ideas and good advice in this thread here:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tech-section/126594-removing-neck-bushings.html
I pressed the new ones in with a pipe clamp just like this:
Lots of other ideas and good advice in this thread here:
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tech-section/126594-removing-neck-bushings.html
Is it an econocycle or a continental? All the Rupp frames with exception to the econocycle/cub use non sealed flanged bearings for the headtubes, the econo/cub didn't have anything.
To get the bearings out go through the one with a 1/2 drift or something like that (sacrificial old bolt thats long enough etc.) and hammer it out working your way around the bearing as you do. Once out do the other side and can use something bigger now since you can get to it. This of course usually does damage the bearings, they are cheap though and can even be bought at hardware stores usually.
You want to avoid direct pressure on the center of the bearing or the inner race that protrudes out on those when putting them back in, if you press them back in maybe drill a resessed hole in a small block of wood for the inner bearing race to sit into and sandwich that between bearing and whatever you are pressing with....or something to that effect.
To get the bearings out go through the one with a 1/2 drift or something like that (sacrificial old bolt thats long enough etc.) and hammer it out working your way around the bearing as you do. Once out do the other side and can use something bigger now since you can get to it. This of course usually does damage the bearings, they are cheap though and can even be bought at hardware stores usually.
You want to avoid direct pressure on the center of the bearing or the inner race that protrudes out on those when putting them back in, if you press them back in maybe drill a resessed hole in a small block of wood for the inner bearing race to sit into and sandwich that between bearing and whatever you are pressing with....or something to that effect.