'69 Rupp Roadster Torrington Bearing?

[robgmn]

Little by little, my son and I are getting all the parts together and cleaning up those that can be reused for our low-budget restoration.
When we disassembled it, the sprocket with the one-way bearing was seized to the jackshaft and got torn up.
Of course, the lip of the bearing where the part number is is gone (I can read "Patent" and "Torrington" and se the directional arrow just fine, however

Can anyone provide the part number for that bearing?

 

[canuk]

13007

 

[robgmn]

No luck o that.
I thought their part number prefix was RCB, but I may be thinking of something else (?).

 

[UnorthodoxCreat]

Vintage Rupp Minibike NOS One Way Clutch Bearing 13007 1968 TT-500 | eBay

 

[markus]

rcb-162117

 

[Rupp 72]

Vintage Rupp Minibike NOS One Way Clutch Bearing 13007 1968 TT-500 | eBay

The clutch bearing for the TT500 is different than for the 69 Roadster. The inside diameter for the TT500 is 3/4in and the inside diameter for the 69 roadster is 1in. The bearings kept wearing out so in 69 they made accommodations to the jackshaft and sprocket to use a bigger clutch bearing that would hold up better.

 

[Bink]

#13734 1969 ONE WAY ROLLER BEARING, 69 ROADSTER & GOAT

 

[Joe51]

Markus's number is correct. Just ordered 2 myself. I believe Torrington sold off many years ago so it may not come with Torrington on them. PN is good though.

 

[robgmn]

Excellent. Order placed.
I have to give it a good cleaning, but it looks like the original has a lip or a shoulder on one side.
Maybe that's part of the sprocket and the bearing is just pressed in?

 

[Joe51]

You are correct in that the bearing gets pressed in. I have two 69 correct 1st gears. I pressed the bearing out of one of them so I could get the sprocket plated. Using the second as a reference when I press the new bearing in. Then I'll do the other gear. Important that when you press the bearing in that you support it completely on the ID. I made a 1" steel sleeve that will be used to press them back in. I'll try to post up a pic for you tonight so you can visualize what I am explaining. You want to use the press sleeve so the bearing does not collapse during install.
Regards,
Joe

 

[robgmn]

You are correct in that the bearing gets pressed in. I have two 69 correct 1st gears. I pressed the bearing out of one of them so I could get the sprocket plated. Using the second as a reference when I press the new bearing in. Then I'll do the other gear. Important that when you press the bearing in that you support it completely on the ID. I made a 1" steel sleeve that will be used to press them back in. I'll try to post up a pic for you tonight so you can visualize what I am explaining. You want to use the press sleeve so the bearing does not collapse during install.
Regards,
Joe

Only if it's no trouble, Joe.
I understand the need to support the bearing from the inside or else it will fold like a tin can being stepped on (stepped on by a 20 ton press

 

[juraskabrian]

You can't just tap the bearing in using a socket and making sure the surfaces are clean? I've done this before on my 70 Nova steering box without any issues.

 

[juraskabrian]

If you lube the bearing up you can tap it in using a socket, without any negative results. I've done this plenty of times.

 

[markus]

I disagree about "tapping" that type of bearing in, and the only way I would get a socket involved for installation is if it had a 1" O.D. to use as an inner support like Joe suggested . Its too thin and alot of small moving parts, just the slightest tweak on any part of it and its going to mess up how it operates.

the parts listings dont seem to show it so I don't know if an original jackshaft has a removable collar/riding surface for the 1st gear, but the repro is that way and Jim at blackwidow does have it listed with what at least appears to be a Rupp part number (#13909). If it is you could in theory simply use that as the inner support.

I have pressed that bearing in on Fox 2 speeds (same type 1st gear setup) by evenly heating the gear and putting the bearing and inner support together in the freezer for awhile and using a large vice with smooth jaws as the "press" keeping the motion/installation pretty constant and smooth. And of course make sure its going in the right way....I am staring at one on my desk right now from a 1969 with writing all over the gear stating "wrong way" as it got pressed in backward I guess (came with a parts buyout that way) :doah:

Good luck :thumbsup:

 

[Joe51]

Hello.
Explained very well Markus. These bearings surely are sensitive to how they are installed for long life. And function. The inner bearings are supported with a plastic cage. Outer lining is extremely thin as noted. Distortion due to tapping them in place without inner diameter support can cause shorter life. There is another current thread on these units that is asking about, after install of a new bearing they work fine for a short period then slip. Type of lube of the needle bearings should also be considered. I am charging my camera so I can post the pictures I said I would. I am also going to include a picture of a first gear hardened and ground bearing support I have re-produced. It has the built in key as original. At the end of the day, I would encourage folks to go to a one way clutch bearing web site and review their suggestions for the proper install of these bearings. It has helped me for sure.
Regards, Joe51

 

[markus]

Nice on the bearing support, I want to see if I can possibly use this 1st gear I have mated with some comet parts so I may be needing one of those from you :thumbsup: it would be on an open ended jackshaft setup (lil indian mini matic) so I may have room to use this style over the comet big clunky sprag assy.

 

[Joe51]

Hopefully pics will load. In the pics.. #1 is an original 69 Rupp 1st gear with the press in tool I use for the clutch bearing for install. #2 is my modified gear. It has the same tooth count as the original Lil Indian 1st gear. The hub is larger to accommodate the Rupp bearing and shaft collar. The original Lil Indian 1st gear did not use a collar. Instead used a hardened and ground jackshaft. This set up allows the use of a std. shaft. #3 is my reproduction shaft collar used on the 69 Rupp. It is made from hardened and ground stock just like the originals. Hope this helps

 

[robgmn]

OK. Bearing has arrived, new chain is on the way.
Step by step.

In looking at the old stuff and doing online part searches, am I correct in thinking that the engine-mounted clutch is just a standard unit and the jackshaft one is special due to the small bore of the clutch plate and the way that it gets locked to the shaft?
I haven't found anything like it yet in any of my searches.

 

[Joe51]

hello, how about posting a pic of what you have/working with. We can go from there.
Regards,
Joe51

 

[robgmn]

Well Smack My Head.
Shoulda' done that in the first place!

I'll snap a few shots this afternoon and get them posted up.