arc rod bolt socket

[r_chez_08]

Hi,
I have an arc clone rod. They have 12pt 1/4" heads to them, which I cannot find a reasonably priced socket for in the UK.
I have a 7mm 6pt socket which fits perfectly over the 12 points. I have included a rough picture below. It would be pretty difficult to damage the points.
Would this be an OK alternative to the 12pt 1/4" socket?
Thanks!
Rob

 

[minidragbike]

No, it will slip
Look for a 12 point wrench, much easier to find. The next problem is TQ.

 

[r_chez_08]

Ok thanks MDB.
I have a 1/2" torque wrench, if I look harder for a 1/4" double hex socket, would the 1/2" wrench be OK, or do I have to use a little 1/4" one rated in IN LB's?
Cheers

 

[Bill Ellerby]

If you have a wrench that will fit it and can afford to modify the wrench( cut it up). You can make your own special torqueing tool out of it . Measure center of opening outward 2 inches 50mm and weld a 1/4 drive adapter to it so when the torque wrench is attached it will be 90 degrees to the wrench. Cut the excess off. Now when to torque always put your new tool on so its 90 degress to the torque wrench to torque correctly. Any time you add or subtract the length of the torqueing device you chance the required torque valve. Hope all this makes sense. When I was in the Navy I was always making tools to get the job done easier and better. Torque adapters were my favorites.

 

[Bikerscum]

Ok thanks MDB.
I have a 1/2" torque wrench, if I look harder for a 1/4" double hex socket, would the 1/2" wrench be OK, or do I have to use a little 1/4" one rated in IN LB's?
Cheers

You'll never get a 1/2" drive torque wrench in there. A 3/8 is doable, barely.

When I did mine I was ---> <--- close to drilling a hole in the block, putting an extension & a socket through the hole to the bolt & torquing it, then plugging the hole.

I still might on my next one.

 

[r_chez_08]

If you have a wrench that will fit it and can afford to modify the wrench( cut it up). You can make your own special torqueing tool out of it . Measure center of opening outward 2 inches 50mm and weld a 1/4 drive adapter to it so when the torque wrench is attached it will be 90 degrees to the wrench. Cut the excess off. Now when to torque always put your new tool on so its 90 degress to the torque wrench to torque correctly. Any time you add or subtract the length of the torqueing device you chance the required torque valve. Hope all this makes sense. When I was in the Navy I was always making tools to get the job done easier and better. Torque adapters were my favorites.

Thanks. I will do this. Can you please explain the 90* bit?
Also, do I need to recalculate the moment, or is that the point of the 90* bit? i.e. calculate the extra 2" put on to the torque wrench, or does the 90* make up for this?
Moment= force x perpendicular distance from the point of rotation to the line of action, or something like that (did a physics GCSE a few weeks ago!)


I measured the rod clearance today, it appears to be around 3.5 thou after a few goes with plastigauge.
Here is a pic of the last attempt. Look OK?

 

[Newoldstock]

Trade you the socket you need for some whitworth spanners...
Sound fair?
Would also consider a Tilley Storm light or Monitor parafin blow lamp.....

 

[r_chez_08]

I would need a 1/4" or 3/8" (at a push) torque wrench to fit in the engine block. With Bill's idea I can use a 1/2" torque wrench, which I already have access to.

 

[Newoldstock]

I would need a 1/4" or 3/8" (at a push) torque wrench to fit in the engine block. With Bill's idea I can use a 1/2" torque wrench, which I already have access to.

Make holes and you will weaken the block.
Use a 3/8 wrench with the right socket.

Now I was not kidding about my offer young fellow.
I collect oddities.
You come across an old Monitor blow lamp at a boot sale and that's a fair trade for the socket you need....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1rMypZTSss&feature=related
Actualy any one will do that was made in the UK prefered.
I have enough things made in Sweden ( less a certan Primus gasoline fired lantern, but thats another story that takes a long time and doesn't realy go anywhere )

Brand new Gray tools made in Canada socket ready to head across the pond.

So go look around the tool shed chum!

 

[r_chez_08]

Thanks for the offer, I will see if I have any of the tools, highly doubt it. However, if I found that lamp, I think I would rather keep it! It looks way better than any socket LOL :hammer:

However, Bill's idea involved no drilling-

If you have a wrench that will fit it and can afford to modify the wrench( cut it up). You can make your own special torqueing tool out of it . Measure center of opening outward 2 inches 50mm and weld a 1/4 drive adapter to it so when the torque wrench is attached it will be 90 degrees to the wrench. Cut the excess off. Now when to torque always put your new tool on so its 90 degress to the torque wrench to torque correctly. Any time you add or subtract the length of the torqueing device you chance the required torque valve. Hope all this makes sense. When I was in the Navy I was always making tools to get the job done easier and better. Torque adapters were my favorites.

Requires no block modification, just a $3 spanner and any old 1/2" socket.

 

[Newoldstock]

Thanks for the offer, I will see if I have any of the tools, highly doubt it. However, if I found that lamp, I think I would rather keep it! It looks way better than any socket LOL :hammer:

However, Bill's idea involved no drilling-


Requires no block modification, just a $3 spanner and any old 1/2" socket.

There used to be a fellow in the UK I dealt with that went by the name on Ebay "Great British bolts".
He used to suply me with a lot of surplus MoD fasteners Obscolete stuff I pay dearly for over here. Anyways he had a lot of tools whitworth and AN stuff.
He may have the socket you need without resorting to import.

 

[r_chez_08]

Thanks for the help.
However, I cannot use a socket with my 1/2" torque wrench because it would not fit- I would have to either but a new torque wrench of smaller drive where sockets are abundant or modify the 1/4" wrench.

 

[Newoldstock]

Thanks for the help.
However, I cannot use a socket with my 1/2" torque wrench because it would not fit- I would have to either but a new torque wrench of smaller drive where sockets are abundant or modify the 1/4" wrench.

Maybe the local mechanic can help you out.

Actualy thats not a bad idea....
Ask a local mechanic to torque it to spec for you cheaper than a torque wrench and socket.

Had to double check you live in Cornwall.
Ok let fly with the Welshman jokes.
Spend a little if all else fails and have the right tools.

 

[r_chez_08]

Sure, I have no problem spending on tools d they are necessary. Thanks :smile:

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I second the idea of having a local mechanic torque it down. I recommend against using a 1/2" drive torque wrench because they don't have the resolution to do inch-pound values very well.

This is a common problem with '83-current Honda RFVC big singles. The M6x1.0 head cover bolts often get pulled out by people trying to use 1/2" wrenches. "But I torqued it to what the manual states!" they say. The bolt only needs ~6-7ft-lbs, but their wrench has wide 5lb increments and a ±5% error.

 

[r_chez_08]

I second the idea of having a local mechanic torque it down. I recommend against using a 1/2" drive torque wrench because they don't have the resolution to do inch-pound values very well.

This is a common problem with '83-current Honda RFVC big singles. The M6x1.0 head cover bolts often get pulled out by people trying to use 1/2" wrenches. "But I torqued it to what the manual states!" they say. The bolt only needs ~6-7ft-lbs, but their wrench has wide 5lb increments and a ±5% error.

OK I will see what I can do. My mate has a 3/8" wrench but it is still in ft lbs so would this be any better?