B&S 3hp help with mikuni and coil

#1
I have a 3hp briggs that is now ported, polished, eybrows shaved, head milled
.020, and a straight pipe. All of that work is thanks to help of others in a different thread.

Now I am wanting to figure out my carb setup. Another member has a similar engine with a mikuni 22 on it. i thought that was too big but he said it worked great! Anyhow, he had a tilly manifold that was modified to work but I cannot find this anywhere.... any suggestions on the carb or manifold...? also, will a new factory coil work or should i get a better one..?
 
#5
5hp intake will work, many vendors carry em. And the coil is fine but they sell hot coils, it's the same as a 5hp as many things go.:thumbsup:
The 5 horse coils are different from the 3 horse coils.. The radius of the cut is different.. But yeah, the coil is beyond fine.. Theres no need for expensive racing parts for a fairly stock engine.. Hypo coils are for when ya run out of other things to throw money at.. :laugh:
 
#11
well i bought a muffler at the local hardware store and cut off the muffler part and kept the threaded piece. i tried to put a bend in it but it did not turn out to well.... i willl try again and just leave the pipe perfectly straight... then it will be fine.
 
#12
Use black gas pipe, same thread and you can make any length you like and with a double female barrel you can screw a muffler right in. It's what I use and if ya heat it red hot you can bend it to a certain point.:thumbsup: I have a threaded fitting that screws into the block with a lock spanner off a later model that takes a bolt on muffler, a 5hp header bolts right on but you'll want to brace the header should you go that way. I'll be taking some pic tomorrow and will snap some of the fitting and header on an engine so you can see what I'm talking about. I don't have the part# but it's a briggs part and has to be available. Just an alternative to the pipe.
 
Last edited:

oldfatguy

Active Member
#13
u

I used a piece of aluminum conduit pipe with a coupling for the muffler,when I want to run it with an open pipe I just take the muffler off.The Aluminum pipe is threaded like water pipe, it is used for outdoor electrical work.
 
#14
Use black gas pipe, same thread and you can make any length you like and with a double female barrel you can screw a muffler right in. It's what I use and if ya heat it red hot you can bend it to a certain point.:thumbsup: I have a threaded fitting that screws into the block with a lock spanner off a later model that takes a bolt on muffler, a 5hp header bolts right on but you'll want to brace the header should you go that way. I'll be taking some pic tomorrow and will snap some of the fitting and header on an engine so you can see what I'm talking about. I don't have the part# but it's a briggs part and has to be available. Just an alternative to the pipe.
I would love to see pics of that setup. i will call local shop to see if they know what it is called. I understand it screws intot he gas block but did you have to put the flange on the other end to bold the 5hp exhaust on it or was the flange already there.
 
#15
u

I used a piece of aluminum conduit pipe with a coupling for the muffler,when I want to run it with an open pipe I just take the muffler off.The Aluminum pipe is threaded like water pipe, it is used for outdoor electrical work.
was the thread on the pipe the same as the engines gas block.....? i would love to use the removeable muffle setup!
 
#16
I would love to see pics of that setup. i will call local shop to see if they know what it is called. I understand it screws intot he gas block but did you have to put the flange on the other end to bold the 5hp exhaust on it or was the flange already there.
The flange is already on the fitting. I have a couple of 3.5 briggs with the same fittings, they are fairly common on the later models.
 
#20
ROUCH!!! Yeah it probably would, but I think a if ya started a new thread (Raptor intake wanted), on this site might fetch ya something a lot cheaper.. There's guys who would just about gladly hand fashion a custom one on their lathe for less than that..

I would go the smallest bore ya can (down to ) the bore size of your intake port.. Most any Raptor intake is going to be bigger than your 3 horse's intake port, and that is gonna slow ya down.. ALTHOUGH you could probably come up with a piece of copper or steel tubing that would make a great reducer fairly easily at the hard ware store... :thumbsup:
 
Top