Bonanza BC1300 Restomod 20 years later.
- Thread starter Jules The Great
- Start date
For the second brake, I didn't want to weld the supports to the lower forks because the 416 stainless is not good for welding.
I used some 1/4-20 rivet nuts into the Asuza backing plate. You can see my crude mount drawing on the 1/2 aluminum scrap. I did all the maths to make sure it would mount up the way I wanted!
The writing on the cardboard looks a little rough because I am still learning to write with my left hand!
I used some 1/4-20 rivet nuts into the Asuza backing plate. You can see my crude mount drawing on the 1/2 aluminum scrap. I did all the maths to make sure it would mount up the way I wanted!
The writing on the cardboard looks a little rough because I am still learning to write with my left hand!
Here is the completed front drum brake. Thanks to narrowing the drum components the wheel is theoretically centered. The aluminum bracket was initially just going to be a block on each side to prevent the backing plate from rotating but then I realized I could also use it to hold the brake cable and not have to weld anymore 416 stainless! It is held on with two countersunk 1/4-20 screws with rivet nuts in the backing plate.
I don't like the methods of holding the brake cable used by most so I went with a bicycle style system. I drilled out the Azusa lever to 5/16 then drilled a 5/64 hole through a 5/16 bolt right next to the head for the cable. I then solder/ tin the cable so it won't collapse under the compression. Or at least it will resist crush better!
Another thing I noticed was a little twist in the Frame. It's a little hard to see in the picture but the seat mounting tabs are bent, the right side frame half is lower at the back tab by about 1/8th of an inch.
So I laid the frame down and gently flexed the frame back with a crowbar. Now despite this frame being 1" high strength tubing there is nothing really preventing the frame halves from moving in the back so it took almost no force to bend it back!
You can maybe see the right half of the frame here where my cast hand is pointing the frame is lower and the seat bracket looks squiggly.
So I laid the frame down and gently flexed the frame back with a crowbar. Now despite this frame being 1" high strength tubing there is nothing really preventing the frame halves from moving in the back so it took almost no force to bend it back!
You can maybe see the right half of the frame here where my cast hand is pointing the frame is lower and the seat bracket looks squiggly.
Another thing I noticed was a little twist in the Frame. It's a little hard to see in the picture but the seat mounting tabs are bent, the right side frame half is lower at the back tab by about 1/8th of an inch.
So I laid the frame down and gently flexed the frame back with a crowbar. Now despite this frame being 1" high strength tubing there is nothing really preventing the frame halves from moving in the back so it took almost no force to bend it back!
You can maybe see the right half of the frame here where my cast hand is pointing the frame is lower and the seat bracket looks squiggly.
So I laid the frame down and gently flexed the frame back with a crowbar. Now despite this frame being 1" high strength tubing there is nothing really preventing the frame halves from moving in the back so it took almost no force to bend it back!
You can maybe see the right half of the frame here where my cast hand is pointing the frame is lower and the seat bracket looks squiggly.
I purchased this sweet drum brake with no sprocket. It was a little too wide for my purposes, so I turned the lip down and probably took about 1/4 of an inch off the width. I also had to countersink the holes so the bolt heads were not poking up, and chamfered the corner off the brake pad.
After all this the backing plate was still poking out too far. At this point I was considering cutting the brake shoes narrower but then any new shoes would not be a drop in fit(ignoring the chamfer lol), and I really didn't want to subject my cutters to such abuse. The brake shoes have quite a bit of play/room between the back of the shoes and the backing plate so I pressed out the pivot pin and cam bushing and machined 0.060" off the backside of the shoulder as highlighted in red in the one picture. What break drum assemblies is that ?
After all this the backing plate was still poking out too far. At this point I was considering cutting the brake shoes narrower but then any new shoes would not be a drop in fit(ignoring the chamfer lol), and I really didn't want to subject my cutters to such abuse. The brake shoes have quite a bit of play/room between the back of the shoes and the backing plate so I pressed out the pivot pin and cam bushing and machined 0.060" off the backside of the shoulder as highlighted in red in the one picture. What break drum assemblies is that ?
Chain updates!
I have the likely original jack shaft with two sprockets on it, a 12 and 20 tooth. The fact that these were both inside the jackshaft supports us another indicator that this bike was a BC1300.
To avoid premature wear I was planning to run 15 tooth sprockets instead of 12 which meant I would need a 22 instead of a 20 BUT that wouldn't fit in the jackshaft brackets because of the swingarm.
I really wanted to have the original orientation but that was not meant to be with my engine choice. Forcing me to run outside the jackshaft bracket allows me to run my 22 tooth primary driven sprocket!
I'm running a max torque 15 tooth clutch to a 22 tooth sprocket, then 15 tooth to 60 tooth rear. Probably to high a ratio with 8 inch tires but we will see!
All number 35 chain, hope it doesn't rip in half from all this torque lol *sarcasm*
I have the likely original jack shaft with two sprockets on it, a 12 and 20 tooth. The fact that these were both inside the jackshaft supports us another indicator that this bike was a BC1300.
To avoid premature wear I was planning to run 15 tooth sprockets instead of 12 which meant I would need a 22 instead of a 20 BUT that wouldn't fit in the jackshaft brackets because of the swingarm.
I really wanted to have the original orientation but that was not meant to be with my engine choice. Forcing me to run outside the jackshaft bracket allows me to run my 22 tooth primary driven sprocket!
I'm running a max torque 15 tooth clutch to a 22 tooth sprocket, then 15 tooth to 60 tooth rear. Probably to high a ratio with 8 inch tires but we will see!
All number 35 chain, hope it doesn't rip in half from all this torque lol *sarcasm*
Alrighty! Been taking it easy after removing my cast (also playing with a trailhopper I picked up) I finally got around to making the brake/ tail light bracket! As I had said previously I really didn't want to weld on this original frame, even though it could always be ground off later.
Thanks again to t555trailblazer for the dimensions and pictures of the mounting bracket! Much appreciated.
Here is my convoluted bracket. I used 1/2x1/8 flat to grab the shock mounting bolts. Then up and bent back at the top to give a similar location to an original. I should have asked for a height up from the shock bolts but here we are!
Thanks again to t555trailblazer for the dimensions and pictures of the mounting bracket! Much appreciated.
Here is my convoluted bracket. I used 1/2x1/8 flat to grab the shock mounting bolts. Then up and bent back at the top to give a similar location to an original. I should have asked for a height up from the shock bolts but here we are!
I need some help with dimensions again.
I ordered this headlight but I'm not sure where the holes for the switches should be drilled. It seems from pics the on off should be center top about 1.5 inches back.
Hi- lo should be at 1:00 and 2 inches back?
I did search around quickly here but does anyone have any more specific hole locations and angles please?
I ordered this headlight but I'm not sure where the holes for the switches should be drilled. It seems from pics the on off should be center top about 1.5 inches back.
Hi- lo should be at 1:00 and 2 inches back?
I did search around quickly here but does anyone have any more specific hole locations and angles please?