Briggs 5 hp idle issue or HELP my BRIGGS
- Thread starter ReapersRide
- Start date
- Tags briggs idle issue
Terry, what I meant was that you are getting advice from several sources and shotgun troubleshooting. Don't touch the governor until you're sure the carb is right. (for example)
That tank mount gasket being torn is not causing your problem. It is part of another problem involving fuel pump efficiency, but that is not a low RPM situation.
The advice Chris is offering is the same advice I'd use and we're just echoing each other. Didn't mean any offence- Hopefully you will rebuild the carb in it's entirety.
That tank mount gasket being torn is not causing your problem. It is part of another problem involving fuel pump efficiency, but that is not a low RPM situation.
The advice Chris is offering is the same advice I'd use and we're just echoing each other. Didn't mean any offence- Hopefully you will rebuild the carb in it's entirety.
I got ya Dave,
I am placing all tech advise in this thread on note pad, to keep track.
So when I get the gasket on Friday I can check all avenues.
Funny thing Lady Sentinel and I where looking at this engine.
She noticed the throttle plate looked odd, turns out the idle screw wasn't even resting on the idle stop.
It was actually resting on the carb tube a full 1/2 inch short of the stop.
I clamped the throttle plate with vise grips as she nudged the screw to a reasonable resting position on the stop plate.
I still have a little wiggle play on on the shaft of the throttle plate just hope it isn't going to effect the operation.
Also Dave the only thing that offends is people on Ebay who butcher minis to sell piece mill.Terry
I am placing all tech advise in this thread on note pad, to keep track.
So when I get the gasket on Friday I can check all avenues.
Funny thing Lady Sentinel and I where looking at this engine.
She noticed the throttle plate looked odd, turns out the idle screw wasn't even resting on the idle stop.
It was actually resting on the carb tube a full 1/2 inch short of the stop.
I clamped the throttle plate with vise grips as she nudged the screw to a reasonable resting position on the stop plate.
I still have a little wiggle play on on the shaft of the throttle plate just hope it isn't going to effect the operation.
Also Dave the only thing that offends is people on Ebay who butcher minis to sell piece mill.Terry
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Yes Michael I will need to address this issue when I get the new gasket.
I found a YouTube video by donyboy71 that covers the peen, punch, peen process of tightening the throttle shaft.
However I have another concern, Lady Sentinel was kind enough to make me a temporary card board gasket, well I was working on the engine when I note a marked progression in resistance in the pull starter.
I happen to notice the Nile River of gas intake.
Needless to say when I removed the oil plug way much more oil then I put in there started gushing out.
I could hear the Ballad Of Jed Clampett ringing in me head.
What could cause my breather to aspirate gas into my oil?
Now more question are
1. do I need to tear down the engine, or do I merely change the oil and tear down the carb only?
2. if I teardown the engine how much damage could I expect to find in there?
Terry
I found a YouTube video by donyboy71 that covers the peen, punch, peen process of tightening the throttle shaft.
However I have another concern, Lady Sentinel was kind enough to make me a temporary card board gasket, well I was working on the engine when I note a marked progression in resistance in the pull starter.
I happen to notice the Nile River of gas intake.
Needless to say when I removed the oil plug way much more oil then I put in there started gushing out.
I could hear the Ballad Of Jed Clampett ringing in me head.
What could cause my breather to aspirate gas into my oil?
Now more question are
1. do I need to tear down the engine, or do I merely change the oil and tear down the carb only?
2. if I teardown the engine how much damage could I expect to find in there?
Terry
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I'm going to go out on a limb here...I don't think it's possible for the breather tube to transfer gas from the carb to the crankcase unless A) you had the air cleaner on and didn't notice the air intake filling up with a ton of fuel, or B) you were priming the carb with a lot of gas. So, raw gas could have been rolling into the combustion chamber and leaking by the rings into the crankcase. Which then means you have a bigger problem with the piston (re-bore, new piston and new rings). So, I think a tear down is in order.
With no experience other than what I have read, alcohol engines typically have methanol mixing in the crankcase from I imagine from strong compression and a different chemical composition. Methanol engines have to have oil changes after every run. What you're describing seems oddly similar.
With no experience other than what I have read, alcohol engines typically have methanol mixing in the crankcase from I imagine from strong compression and a different chemical composition. Methanol engines have to have oil changes after every run. What you're describing seems oddly similar.
Thank you for the reply DST,
No Dr. I did not have the filter on, just as you can see in my posted videos.
I have not gotten to the point of installing the air filter.
I only primed the card with three sprays of starting fluid when needed no gas ever.
Yet I didn't notice or think to look in the carburetor until near the end the second video.
Nor did I have a clue the gas was going to the crank case.
The engine started nice and easy in the three video, it was not until the fourth start session.
It started great again but would stumble on throttling up.
So I decided that I would just allow it to idle as I used it to clean the driver on the TC.
Well about an hour and a half of idling as I held fine sandpaper to the dirt laden surfaces.
I noticed the engine was starting to lagging.
That was when I opened the oil plug and it like opening flood gates.
So when the oil stopped following out I dump a little more out until oil came to the start of threads in the plug hole.
Anyhow Lady Sentinel and I attempted to do a total carburetor cleaning all went great until time to reinstalling the Welch plug by the jet pilot the ones I have are too small.
So I now must wait to get the correct one.
I tried to plug the chamber but could not start the engine.
I am thinking a new carburetor at this point, but now I question my breather too
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Terry
No Dr. I did not have the filter on, just as you can see in my posted videos.
I have not gotten to the point of installing the air filter.
I only primed the card with three sprays of starting fluid when needed no gas ever.
Yet I didn't notice or think to look in the carburetor until near the end the second video.
Nor did I have a clue the gas was going to the crank case.
The engine started nice and easy in the three video, it was not until the fourth start session.
It started great again but would stumble on throttling up.
So I decided that I would just allow it to idle as I used it to clean the driver on the TC.
Well about an hour and a half of idling as I held fine sandpaper to the dirt laden surfaces.
I noticed the engine was starting to lagging.
That was when I opened the oil plug and it like opening flood gates.
So when the oil stopped following out I dump a little more out until oil came to the start of threads in the plug hole.
Anyhow Lady Sentinel and I attempted to do a total carburetor cleaning all went great until time to reinstalling the Welch plug by the jet pilot the ones I have are too small.
So I now must wait to get the correct one.
I tried to plug the chamber but could not start the engine.
I am thinking a new carburetor at this point, but now I question my breather too
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Terry
Thank you Dr for your kind offer but we have a carburetor line up for $70.00 with free S&H.
So Lady Sentinel was fortunate enough to quickly secure a Welch Plug a local small engine dealer gave her one.
So we placed the Welch Plug set it and sealed it with nail polish.
We also replaced the Spark Plug due to the fact the old one was in the engine when I purchased it back in 2010
The engine starts great very easily however throttling up strong still eludes me.
Also even though it does not appear to be a severe as it was gas still pools in the carburetor body.
Also someone else echoed your theory of gas getting past the rings.
He also added that someone may have tampered with the emulsion tube.
If this is the case would I be able to replace the emulsion tube or are we looking at a new carburetor?
Thank you for any insight in this matter
Terry[video=youtube_share;u7SjwUC8HOc]https://youtu.be/u7SjwUC8HOc[/video]
[video=youtube_share;bfhl6O5YD9E]https://youtu.be/bfhl6O5YD9E[/video]
You're getting blow by around the rings and the carb is pumping too much fuel into the engine. The white puffs are unburned fuel. I think you should pull the head and look at the combustion chamber---bet it has a ton of crud and the top of the piston will be gunked up to. That'll point to a good valve cleaning and reseating. Rotate the engine by hand to get a look at the cylinder walls. If they are glazed they will be yellow-brown. If you are real adventurous and want to spend more time and cash, crack the case and pop the piston out to check ring gap...I'm betting you've got worn rings which is letting fuel into the crankcase. Before you pop 70 bucks for a new carb, post a wanted. Somebody, I'm sure, has one for a lot less than what you'll pay new.
More than likely your engine needs a basic refresh. If the major parts are ok, a good cleaning of the combustion chamber, valve lapping and deglazing the cylinder along with new rings should do the trick. It's a 3-4 hour job and the manuals are located on the forum. With gaskets and rings, perhaps 50 bucks in parts, cheaper if you shop. Ring compressors are pretty cheap and there are other tricks you can use without one to install a piston. The only "uncommon" yet very necessary tool you'll need is the cylinder hone. I got mine at Sears for 25.00.
Pete
More than likely your engine needs a basic refresh. If the major parts are ok, a good cleaning of the combustion chamber, valve lapping and deglazing the cylinder along with new rings should do the trick. It's a 3-4 hour job and the manuals are located on the forum. With gaskets and rings, perhaps 50 bucks in parts, cheaper if you shop. Ring compressors are pretty cheap and there are other tricks you can use without one to install a piston. The only "uncommon" yet very necessary tool you'll need is the cylinder hone. I got mine at Sears for 25.00.
Pete
So I spent some time in my garage and came across my compression tester.
I hooked it up to my 5 HP Briggs engine and after three separate tests.
I could only achieve 73 psi of compression mediocre at best.
Then I removed the head and was hit with the realty that this block is toasted.
I sent the photos to my brother who is a machine operator and he told me the gouge appeared to be at least 15 thousands deep.
So I guess I need a new block if not a whole engine.
Thank you all for your input.
Terry
I hooked it up to my 5 HP Briggs engine and after three separate tests.
I could only achieve 73 psi of compression mediocre at best.
Then I removed the head and was hit with the realty that this block is toasted.
I sent the photos to my brother who is a machine operator and he told me the gouge appeared to be at least 15 thousands deep.
So I guess I need a new block if not a whole engine.
Thank you all for your input.
Terry
Wow !!!
That damage looks similar to an engine I had with a missing wrist pin clip.
Since the damage is almost straight up & down it could be the end of a
piston ring gouging the cylinder or a wrist pin trying to escape.
Might just be dirt scratches also thought.
Thanks to ebay, you can get a decent cylinder for a good price.
These shortblocks look to have 3/4" pto shafts and spare parts is always nice. :laugh:
Just be sure to ask all the right questions.
Briggs and Stratton 5HP Short Block | eBay
Briggs and Stratton 5HP Short Block | eBay
That damage looks similar to an engine I had with a missing wrist pin clip.
Since the damage is almost straight up & down it could be the end of a
piston ring gouging the cylinder or a wrist pin trying to escape.
Might just be dirt scratches also thought.
Thanks to ebay, you can get a decent cylinder for a good price.
These shortblocks look to have 3/4" pto shafts and spare parts is always nice. :laugh:
Just be sure to ask all the right questions.
Briggs and Stratton 5HP Short Block | eBay
Briggs and Stratton 5HP Short Block | eBay