Briggs 5 hp idle issue or HELP my BRIGGS

#61
Hey 5 Horse,
May I ask what are the right questions?
When I was doing my 4 go karts back 20 years ago.
I just bought bolt and go complete engines.
Admittedly this salvaging parts is new territory for me.
Thank you
Terry
Well, I'm just saying that make sure that your not buying broken or damaged parts.
The listing says they came from running engines so that's good, but there is no warranty
so I would ask them to offer shipping insurance or something.

I like to ask about stripped threads or cracks and stuff when buying engine parts.
I also like background information on what the engine was used for if they happened to know that sorta stuff.
 
#62
Hey 5 Horse,
May I ask what are the right questions?
When I was doing my 4 go karts back 20 years ago.
I just bought bolt and go complete engines.
Admittedly this salvaging parts is new territory for me.
Thank you
Terry
Well, I read the description and it says you might not get what's in the picture.
I would ask about the 3/4" pto crankshaft also.
 
#63
Well, I read the description and it says you might not get what's in the picture.
I would ask about the 3/4" pto crankshaft also.
In 7 pages, Terry went from an engine that wouldn't accelerate to an engine that needs a total rebuild. 75 PSI on the compression? I wish I had that kind of compression. Thing is, how do you get a pulse-a-pump to get enough gasoline into the intake to have a noticeable rise in oil quantity and loss of viscosity?

I do not think advising Terry to rebuilt the engine or procure parts on his own is the best course of action. No offense intended, but not everyone can whip out an engine rebuild, and troubleshooting over the internet is almost impossible:

Terry went from an engine that wouldn't accelerate to one that needs to be tossed in the trash can. Someone maybe in the Indy area needs to get this engine and look at it, or Terry needs to send it out to someone like you who can do it justice. My two cents worth.
 
#64
There is the correct answer right there. ^^^^^^^^^^^
I have been following this thread from the beginning and that is the best course of action for THIS member with THIS engine.
Michael
 
#65
I could not agree with you more...
This engine, I thought was going to be a quick fuel tank change and done.
But no this engine is turning into a money pit.
Besides had I found my compression tester before I decided to do anything with this engine.
I would have just left it sit and put a 212 on the dingo.
Terry
 
#67
Here is some information I had gotten off the internet.
You tell me if it is correct or not or even if it applies to my Briggs?

Three specs that are considered critical;
1. The connecting rod cap at 110 in-lbs
2. The sump cover at 110 in-lbs
3. The cylinder head at 165 in-lbs.
Compression isn't specified by the factory, Theoretical minimum of 60 for an engine to function.
However it's good to see at least 120 Less than 90 time for a rebuild.
Less than 90 will mean that after you get it started, it will have a hard time coming off idle because of low vacuum.
Whatever is causing low compression, may also cause low vacuum (bad exhaust valve, scored cylinder wall, worn or broken piston rings, etc.)
Right off of idle is when an engine needs and builds the most vacuum.
Off idle is when the carburetor is making the transition from the Idle Circuit to the Run Circuit.
The carb needs the vacuum to start drawing the fuel from the main jet.
After RPM's increase, the increased airflow takes over and not only draws the fuel through the jet, but forces air into the carburetor fuel bowl.
Slightly pressurizing it to force fuel through the main jet.
 
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