Chain Tensioner Help

#1
So i’ve thrown together a pretty strange setup for my chain tensioner on my minibike. The issue i’m running into however is that the chain is completely destroying the roller wheel. I’ve had on wheel get completely eaten all the way to the bearing and now caused a chain to break. My question is if anyone knows a stronger plastic roller or alternative to my chain tensioner to keep this from happening.
The wheel I used prior was on off of amazon for $12.
 

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#3
You may have too much tension on it and a swinging arm tensioner should be a trailing arm (in relation to chain travel), not a leading arm (the roller should be to the rear of the pivot). A leading arm can pull the roller into the chain with much more force than the spring tension.

http://www.monstercraftsman.com/universal-bolt-on-mini-bike-tensioner-black-wheel/
http://www.monstercraftsman.com/universal-bolt-on-mini-bike-tensioner-green-wheel/
Those look really nice but definitely way out of budget. That would add up to be 1/4 of my minibikes worth if I used that. Do you know of any cheaper ones? If not I’ll just try to reconfigure mine with a trailing arm. The whole setup is pretty meh and was thrown together quickly. But it got the job done while it worked.
 
#4
Those look really nice but definitely way out of budget. That would add up to be 1/4 of my minibikes worth if I used that. Do you know of any cheaper ones? If not I’ll just try to reconfigure mine with a trailing arm. The whole setup is pretty meh and was thrown together quickly. But it got the job done while it worked.
Yeah, those are rather pricey, I just linked them as an example. They appear to be very high quality and I would consider buying a couple if they were half the price. Search eBay, there should be plenty of inexpensive tensioners. I'd look for one with a largish roller, less likely for the chain to slip on it, eating the roller.
 
#5
Those look really nice but definitely way out of budget. That would add up to be 1/4 of my minibikes worth if I used that. Do you know of any cheaper ones? If not I’ll just try to reconfigure mine with a trailing arm. The whole setup is pretty meh and was thrown together quickly. But it got the job done while it worked.
I should have said that a leading arm can work but a trailing arm is better. With a leading arm, the arm should be relatively close to parallel with the chain run. I think your problem was due mainly to the angle of the arm, causing the roller to be jammed into the chain. With a trailing arm, the roller would be pushed away, regardless of the arm angle (close to parallel is still good, though).
 

DaddyJohn

Well-Known Member
#9
Those skate board wheels are a pretty decent deal at what works out to $6 each.
I keep my eye open at the Goodwill for skateboards; picked one up with great wheels for $4 the other day...:)

Be sure to check that the wheel can rotate freely and the bearings aren't binding up. Some of those cheap rollers may either not have an internal space, or one the isn't sized correctly. Be sure you don't have a washer riding against the full width of the bearing on the outside either; only the inner race should be contacted.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#14
Posted on another thread before back in Dec. of modifying Skateboard wheels, but just saw this new thread also..

The wheels, bearings & spacers I get from tgm skateboards, are 50mm,, & a set of 4 is like 11 - 12 bucks.
The bearings I use are the abec7's, which are''semi'' hi speed , & ''better'' quality steel ect. & spin more freely. The ones I get have the blue shields & are house brand, & like around 10 bucks for a set of 8.
Spacer & washer kit is around 4 bucks, think they list the kit as ''dime bag'' brand.

Anyway,,

I make up an arbor with a concave fender washer to hold the wheel, & shim with washers & spacers ,, plus a grade 5 or better 5/16 bolt.

Then I chuck the assy. in a drill, & use a balsa saw for initial cuts, usually 1/2 dz. or so,, & then a hack saw blade, to angle cut the pieces out, then finish with a head of a chisel, files,, & sandpaper ect.

Nice thing about having 4 wheels other than being able to make 4 rollers is,, I can cut each one to different depths, which if I run out of adjustment, I can figure the cuts so a 1/2 link won't have to be used ect.. ;)

I
100_5894.JPG 100_5907 (1).JPG 100_5990.JPG 100_5864.JPG
 
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#15
Make sure the bottom of the tensioner can pivot freely. Maybe move it forward some and try a longer spring. Mine seems to work good.
I think my issue is for sure the roller not spinning freely, may I ask what the roller wheel is rotating around, a bolt, axle, etc. My setup is pretty meh just thrown together, the spring is definitely too tight as well.
 
#17
Posted on another thread before back in Dec. of modifying Skateboard wheels, but just saw this new thread also..

The wheels, bearings & spacers I get from tgm skateboards, are 50mm,, & a set of 4 is like 11 - 12 bucks.
The bearings I use are the abec7's, which are''semi'' hi speed , & ''better'' quality steel ect. & spin more freely. The ones I get have the blue shields & are house brand, & like around 10 bucks for a set of 8.
Spacer & washer kit is around 4 bucks, think they list the kit as ''dime bag'' brand.

Anyway,,

I make up an arbor with a concave fender washer to hold the wheel, & shim with washers & spacers ,, plus a grade 5 or better 5/16 bolt.

Then I chuck the assy. in a drill, & use a balsa saw for initial cuts, usually 1/2 dz. or so,, & then a hack saw blade, to angle cut the pieces out, then finish with a head of a chisel, files,, & sandpaper ect.

Nice thing about having 4 wheels other than being able to make 4 rollers is,, I can cut each one to different depths, which if I run out of adjustment, I can figure the cuts so a 1/2 link won't have to be used ect.. ;)

I
View attachment 262217 View attachment 262218 View attachment 262219 View attachment 262220
Where can I find that little adjustment piece you have?
 
#19
You may have too much tension on it and a swinging arm tensioner should be a trailing arm (in relation to chain travel), not a leading arm (the roller should be to the rear of the pivot). A leading arm can pull the roller into the chain with much more force than the spring tension.

http://www.monstercraftsman.com/universal-bolt-on-mini-bike-tensioner-black-wheel/
http://www.monstercraftsman.com/universal-bolt-on-mini-bike-tensioner-green-wheel/
Has anybody used these guys?

Their BBB page shows a number of complaints, but I really want a couple of these....
 
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