Cleaning up the Rust on the Gas tank and front fender on my 1971 Roadster 2

[GustoGuy]

I used rust remover gel on the outside of the gas tank and Evaporust inside of the tank plus a couple dozen roofing nails inside the tank and then slosh the tank around to remove the rust from the inside. I may get another gas cap since the one that came with the Ebay gas tank was dented. I am using rust remover jelly covered with wet with rust remover paper towels on the inside of the front chrome fender to clean it up. Once clean I will clear coat it to prevent further rusting. I have a slight dent in the front fender that I will try and work out by trying to shape it by hand with a rubber mallet as an anvil.

I am also soaking the side reflectors for the headlight to remove the rust from the backside and edge. The bike was missing the original Rupp headlight assembly and headlamp but It came with a 5 inch Chrome edge Yamaha headlight assembly. I will find a powerful 5 inch LED headlight and a strong 12 volt rechargeable LED battery to power the lights with the stock headlamp switch that I will buy.

 

[Mariah]

My novel trick for cleaning the tank (lazy) is add drywall screws, fasten the tank to the rear wheel of my riding mower with bungee straps and mow the lawn. It works quite well!

 

[GustoGuy]

My novel trick for cleaning the tank (lazy) is add drywall screws, fasten the tank to the rear wheel of my riding mower with bungee straps and mow the lawn. It works quite well!

I already tried too tip my Rupp gas tank upside down and unfortunately my gas cap is not completely leak proof. It started to leak since I was going to see if I could alter the gas tanks position to guarentee all rust removal. Otherwise that would be a great way to do the screw trick or nail trick to mechanically remove rust in addition to rust remover.

 

[markus]

My novel trick for cleaning the tank (lazy) is add drywall screws, fasten the tank to the rear wheel of my riding mower with bungee straps and mow the lawn. It works quite well!

Thats excellent, multi tasking I put the big round tank from my 1947 Cushman scooter in the dryer filled with drywall screws wrapped in blankets to do that job (no heat)........got in a lot of trouble with the wife with that one

 

[capguncowboy]

I've cleaned tanks a few different ways over the years. I've filled them with nuts and bolts, or wood screws and shook them until my arms were numb (pretty effective), I've used electrolytic rust removal (very effective) and I've soaked them overnight in evaporust (pretty effective). All of these methods work but it obviously depends on what you're trying to do.

If you're going to repaint it, use an electrolytic bath -- it's simple and will remove everything from the inside of the tank. All you really need is a manual battery charger and a bucket (and some sacrificial metal).

If you want to salvage the paint and any decals, use the shake method.

I've used Evaporust on decaled tanks and didn't have any issues. It will flake paint if there is rust under it, but it won't effect any other spots. I recall someone saying they had an issue with it taking the color off of chrome decals but I never ran into that with the 10 or so tanks I've done. The downside to Evaporust is it's pretty expensive and a gas tank will really wear that stuff out. I use the shake method first to knock out the bulk of the rust. That should remove the scale and big stuff, and the evaporust will get the rest without neutralizing your supply

There's really no easy way to do this stuff. All of it creates some degree of a mess, but it's worth it to see that shiny metal surface again when you're done.

 

[GustoGuy]

I've cleaned tanks a few different ways over the years. I've filled them with nuts and bolts, or wood screws and shook them until my arms were numb (pretty effective), I've used electrolytic rust removal (very effective) and I've soaked them overnight in evaporust (pretty effective). All of these methods work but it obviously depends on what you're trying to do.

If you're going to repaint it, use an electrolytic bath -- it's simple and will remove everything from the inside of the tank. All you really need is a manual battery charger and a bucket (and some sacrificial metal).

If you want to salvage the paint and any decals, use the shake method.

I've used Evaporust on decaled tanks and didn't have any issues. It will flake paint if there is rust under it, but it won't effect any other spots. I recall someone saying they had an issue with it taking the color off of chrome decals but I never ran into that with the 10 or so tanks I've done. The downside to Evaporust is it's pretty expensive and a gas tank will really wear that stuff out. I use the shake method first to knock out the bulk of the rust. That should remove the scale and big stuff, and the evaporust will get the rest without neutralizing your supply

There's really no easy way to do this stuff. All of it creates some degree of a mess, but it's worth it to see that shiny metal surface again when you're done.

I like the look of clean metal too. Plus rust will clog your carburetor if you don't clean the tank. The Naval jelly really did a great job on the outside of the Gas tank. Did Rupp make Yellow Roadster 2 Minibikes in 1971? I pulled the foot peg since it is cracked and the original color appears to be Yellow. I didn't see that color listed for 12 inch wheel Roadster 2's.

 

[capguncowboy]

As far as I know, the last year they made a yellow bike was in 1969

 

[Mariah]

I already tried too tip my Rupp gas tank upside down and unfortunately my gas cap is not completely leak proof. It started to leak since I was going to see if I could alter the gas tanks position to guarentee all rust removal. Otherwise that would be a great way to do the screw trick or nail trick to mechanically remove rust in addition to rust remover.

The screws go in dry...dry tumble!!!

 

[GustoGuy]

The screws go in dry...dry tumble!!!

Dry works. But I can't do a spin cycle in the dryer.

Right now I have the gas tank filled with Evaporust plus a couple dozen roofing nails in the tank which I shake around every once in a while to scratch off the flakes inside. The liquid inside is pretty dark right now. Evaporust works great if you let it soak for several days.

Lol
My wife would kill me if I did a spin cycle with her nice dryer.

 

[GustoGuy]

As far as I know, the last year they made a yellow bike was in 1969

My frame is definitely a 1971 through 1975 frame with the 12 inch wheels. I heard other than 1971 the frames are black color.I will gently sand through the paint to see what color the bike actually was.

 

[capguncowboy]

Rupp painted all of the frames in 1971 the same color as the fuel tank. In 1972 and later, all of the frames were black. They didn't make a yellow bike during either of those years.

BUT they used the same footpegs the entire time. I don't know if they painted them in the later years, but in the early years, they were chrome (or at least cadmium) plated. That peg of yours looks like it was painted yellow by a previous owner

 

[GustoGuy]

Rupp painted all of the frames in 1971 the same color as the fuel tank. In 1972 and later, all of the frames were black. They didn't make a yellow bike during either of those years.

BUT they used the same footpegs the entire time. I don't know if they painted them in the later years, but in the early years, they were chrome (or at least cadmium) plated. That peg of yours looks like it was painted yellow by a previous owner

Yes, I am looking more closely and it appears that there is underlying black paint underneath the yellow. So my frame must be a 1972+ Roadster 2. Also on the rear swingarm it appears that there is black paint underneath the yellow too especially where the rear shocks attach it is black.

 

[GustoGuy]

Here is how my fender turned out after using the rust removing gel.

 

[GustoGuy]

Here is a picture of my Gas tank. How much does it cost to powder coat a Gasoline tank? I heard it gives a smooth hard finish that is impervious to spilled gasoline which is guaranteed to happen on a gasoline tank

 

[capguncowboy]

Those tanks have a solder joint in them. If you powder coat it, it will melt the solder and the tank will leak. I remember who it was but someone else was able to do it without ruining the solder joint, but I'm not sure what they did to prevent it

 

[Havasu Dave]

If you can't get someone to paint it for you with fuel proof paint, (like your car for example) then several people have got their tanks powder coated.

FYI- 30/70 old school body solder melts at 370F. PC generally needs to be heated up to 400F to cure. This is dependent on what coating, and what coater. ASK one, not an internet expert like me, because some powders and some coaters can go with less heat.

If I needed to have someone powder coat my tank, the first thing I'd do is seal it myself with the recent body solders, like Eastwood's Lead Free solder. It has a wider working range, and won't completely run out in the oven.

 

[GustoGuy]

If you can't get someone to paint it for you with fuel proof paint, (like your car for example) then several people have got their tanks powder coated.

FYI- 30/70 old school body solder melts at 370F. PC generally needs to be heated up to 400F to cure. This is dependent on what coating, and what coater. ASK one, not an internet expert like me, because some powders and some coaters can go with less heat.

If I needed to have someone powder coat my tank, the first thing I'd do is seal it myself with the recent body solders, like Eastwood's Lead Free solder. It has a wider working range, and won't completely run out in the oven.

I heard that you can paint it with a spra

If you can't get someone to paint it for you with fuel proof paint, (like your car for example) then several people have got their tanks powder coated.

FYI- 30/70 old school body solder melts at 370F. PC generally needs to be heated up to 400F to cure. This is dependent on what coating, and what coater. ASK one, not an internet expert like me, because some powders and some coaters can go with less heat.

If I needed to have someone powder coat my tank, the first thing I'd do is seal it myself with the recent body solders, like Eastwood's Lead Free solder. It has a wider working range, and won't completely run out in the oven.

I believe I found a solution to the paint coming off when exposed to gasoline. It called Spray Max 2 part Urethane clear coat in a can. Says you paint the gas tank with your spray bomb to the color you want then use this product to put a 2 part urethane finish which is impervious to gasoline and oil over the paint to protect the surface. The instructions say you must use a VOC organic solvent approved respirator since this stuff can "KILL You" . Once the can is activated you need to use all of it since it solidifies in the spray can after 12 hours or so. It is is a catalyst 2 part clear coat urethane finish in a can. Has anyone here on the forum used this stuff?

 

[Havasu Dave]

. Has anyone here on the forum used this stuff?

Yes. The paint in question (spray max) is instantly mixed when you go to use it. Some have used it with good results. They don't see the same quality of finish you get with a gun, but it looks pretty good. There are several versions of urethane clear on the market in rattle cans.

I and several others here use a gun. We've posted photos of bikes we've restored and painted to a professional finish all over this forum.

Edit: @Dr. Shop Teacher has used the rattle can catalyzed clear top coat and may chime in here, or you could PM him. A side note, since I spend a bit of money on quality paint, I also take the extra step of coating the tank with Caswell's sealer. It is an epoxy coating, clear, and unsurpassed in my opinion. I have never had it fail. This ensures I don't get fuel bleed through the substrate of a quality paint job.

 

[GustoGuy]

Here is the inside of my gasoline tank after soaking in Evaporust. This is just Evaporust without shaking the roofing nails. I wish I took an Evaporust presoak photo it was really rusty inside.

This is after Evaporust plus shaking with roofing nails


Here is my fender after Chrome polishing

 

[GustoGuy]

Well I am disassembling my Rupp roadster 2 and cleaning up all the tusty parts with rust remover. My rear wheel bearing on the sprocket side is frozen in the hub while the brake side bearing rotates. My rear rim is fairly rosy especially in on spot and I doubt that I can get it to look like new shiny Chrome. I seen a company on the internet sells a product called Easy Chrome. It is a spray on Chrome like paint that looks almost as nice as chrome. It costs about $250 though. Has anyone used this stuff. I heard people have Chrome powder coated their rims and they look pretty nice. Real chrome repair cost way more than $250.