I am wondering, if I were to replace the stock cam with an aftermarket cam with higher lift, would I still be able to pull start it without the compression release? Also, if I upgrade my valve springs I am told that the valve stems will mushroom and that I should make sure that there are lash caps on both valves, where do I get lash caps? Anyone?
You can get a compression release on most aftermarket cams. I believe the new Dyno one has a release and most custom grinds will have it unless you specify not to. At the very least I would get real honda valves if you are going to put a cam in, not sure if they will mushroom but that all depends on what else you get.
Lash caps you can get at any karting place. NR Racing should probably have them.
There is also the 1.2 rocker way to go if you just want a little added lift without buying a CAM.
Either way going with real Honda parts or aftermarket parts is cheap insurance instead of clone parts
Lash caps you can get at any karting place. NR Racing should probably have them.
There is also the 1.2 rocker way to go if you just want a little added lift without buying a CAM.
Either way going with real Honda parts or aftermarket parts is cheap insurance instead of clone parts
The cam is the best way to go over just high ratio rockers. But just make sure you have enough valve spring preasure. Yes lash caps are needed to make sure your valve stems down mushroom. They mushroom because of both spring pressure and higher RPM.
Just changing the cam/springs is no good if you don't have a good flowing carb, or header to let the extra flow in and out.
Just changing the cam/springs is no good if you don't have a good flowing carb, or header to let the extra flow in and out.
Well I have an open RLV header, pz22 carb with a higher flow filter. I have a #90 and a #92 jet for the carb, but with an upgraded cam would I need to go another size or two up on the jet size or not? If I get lash caps should I bother upgrading to the Honda stock valves or can I sucessfully use the clone valves with the lash caps?
The stock valves will work, just make sure you don't run into coil bind.
Also what are you looking to make anyway? As in HP?
What are you doing with your motor?
Do you have a billet rod?
Has your ignition timing been advanced?
What size cam are you looking for?
The jetting at most will need to be changed slightly. The tricky part maybe dealing with the low idle quality.
Also what are you looking to make anyway? As in HP?
What are you doing with your motor?
Do you have a billet rod?
Has your ignition timing been advanced?
What size cam are you looking for?
The jetting at most will need to be changed slightly. The tricky part maybe dealing with the low idle quality.
If your thinking about putting a much larger cam in, I agree with MDB definitely need a ARC rod and you might wanna think about the flywheel since they came down in price.
You may also want to think about doing a little work on the head, not necessarily going crazy but a bit of time spent on the short side radius and a few other key areas can make a difference also.
You start spinning it 6500+, your gonna wear the clone crank out sooner or later with a no bearing rod. Also, your gonna need to rebuild often if you use it alot.
If your running gas I would put in a 8deg key also if you didn't already.
You may also want to think about doing a little work on the head, not necessarily going crazy but a bit of time spent on the short side radius and a few other key areas can make a difference also.
You start spinning it 6500+, your gonna wear the clone crank out sooner or later with a no bearing rod. Also, your gonna need to rebuild often if you use it alot.
If your running gas I would put in a 8deg key also if you didn't already.
Well to be honest, I'm a rook, this is the first time I have done any upgrades on an engine. So I have a Champion brand clone. Therefore, without exchanging the head I will not use 1.2 rockers since the champions come with shaft mounted rockers. I have the governor removed, a billet flywheel, I will be getting a billet rod with bearings, an RLV port matched header, an AGK intake with a PZ22 on the end, obviously some jet adjustments, and 18lb. valve springs.
I am just toying with the cam upgrade right now which is why I am asking how it will affect everything else. Sometimes as you know, you upgrade one thing and you have to follow with upgrades on other parts of the motor.
Since I am somewhat new to this, what is coil bind? Is that a binding up of the springs? What do I have to do to avoid this?
Also, I have heard about cleaning up the short side radius but to be honest I do not really know what this means. I understand that this is a matter of port work, but I do not know what someone means when they refer to the port side radius. The timing is not advanced, I had a Honda GX160 flywheel that I was going to work with which I understand would have provided a 4 degree advance, but I decided to go with an ARC flywheel instead due to the lighter weight and durability. I do not have plans to advance timing since I am not really trying to go crazy here, mostly supe it up a little and learn. If there is a benefit to timing advance that I should consider, please let me know. I appreciate any experienced advice on this.
I am just toying with the cam upgrade right now which is why I am asking how it will affect everything else. Sometimes as you know, you upgrade one thing and you have to follow with upgrades on other parts of the motor.
Since I am somewhat new to this, what is coil bind? Is that a binding up of the springs? What do I have to do to avoid this?
Also, I have heard about cleaning up the short side radius but to be honest I do not really know what this means. I understand that this is a matter of port work, but I do not know what someone means when they refer to the port side radius. The timing is not advanced, I had a Honda GX160 flywheel that I was going to work with which I understand would have provided a 4 degree advance, but I decided to go with an ARC flywheel instead due to the lighter weight and durability. I do not have plans to advance timing since I am not really trying to go crazy here, mostly supe it up a little and learn. If there is a benefit to timing advance that I should consider, please let me know. I appreciate any experienced advice on this.
Have a look at this for short side radius, but it would be the radius from the bottom of the intake port into the combustion chamber. See the third picture:
diyPorting.com
Coil bind is when the coils of the spring are basically touching meaning they can not be compressed anymore. Need a taller spring,spring with less coils or less lift to avoid this.
Good picture to show this:
4 Cycle Karting Forums - Know your springs...
Advancing the timing will really make a huge difference. I would really take that into consideration.
What kinda RPMs do you want to turn the motor?
diyPorting.com
Coil bind is when the coils of the spring are basically touching meaning they can not be compressed anymore. Need a taller spring,spring with less coils or less lift to avoid this.
Good picture to show this:
4 Cycle Karting Forums - Know your springs...
Advancing the timing will really make a huge difference. I would really take that into consideration.
What kinda RPMs do you want to turn the motor?