Comet 20 series TC on HS40

[Ding Ding]

I purchased a generic Comet 20 series symmetrical TC for my 1971 HS40. I was hoping this could just bolt on and go, however, there are a couple things that I'm not sure about.

1. The inner sheave of the TC sits extremely close to the engine and damn near rubs the guard that is mounted to the engine. I can't say whether or not it actually will be an issue, but it is concerning. It looks like it might clear with the guard removed but I would really like to keep it on. Should I put some kind of washer or spacer back there to give it a little more room? If so, what should I use?

Almost on....

All the way on, and close to rubbing....

2. This TC came with a bolt and end keeper that is too small for the correct size bolt. Basically, the bolt is useless and the end keeper plate does not work with the larger correct size bolt to keep it on the crank shaft. I either need to buy the correct "end keeper" that has a bore big enough for the correct size bolt OR I need to drill out the current one to make it work.

The "End keeper"

The bolts

The small bolt that doesn't fasten to the crankshaft

The larger correct bolt, not working with the end keeper

I'm sure someone else has run in to these issues before. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Mike

 

[Not so mini bike]

I bought an original comet 20 series drive and it didn't come with that end keeper piece. I just put the correct bolt in with a washer.
If you put a thin washer or spacer on before you put the back plate on you should be good.

 

[Ding Ding]

Well I just talked to a coworker of mine who also had the issue with the end keeper not being large enough bore. He ended up drilling it out and it worked fine.

And I could get this spacer: #15391 ENGINE SHAFT SPACER

That should fix both issues.

 

[Docdc]

Go to your Ace hardware and look for "machine bushings". They are thin washers that work well. Usually in the boxes by the nuts and bolts. Hopefully they have that particular box. Get 5/8" or 3/4" depending on your output shaft.

Doc

 

[joshua. c.]

I think the clutch is to close because you are missing a spacer. the comet 30 series I have came with a spacer and it looks like your 20 series is supposed to have one.

 

[gumpit]

How does it line up when its mounted? Does it need to be moved out? If it is close but lines up and doesnt rub then leave it. If it rubs just a tiny bit but lines up then personally I would grind off just enough from the edge rubbing to keep it from rubbing.

 

[george3]

How does it line up when its mounted? Does it need to be moved out? If it is close but lines up and doesnt rub then leave it. If it rubs just a tiny bit but lines up then personally I would grind off just enough from the edge rubbing to keep it from rubbing.

:thumbsup: Always check your line up first. Maybe you need 2 washers or possibly none.

 

[jrzmac]

I purchased a generic Comet 20 series symmetrical TC for my 1971 HS40. I was hoping this could just bolt on and go, however, there are a couple things that I'm not sure about.


The "End keeper"

I'm sure someone else has run in to these issues before. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Mike

I have the same clutch, and the same problem. I just put the clutch on without the "end keeper" part. and it works fine without it. but if you find a way to drill out that end piece, let me know. maybe you could do mine somehow?

 

[Ding Ding]

How does it line up when its mounted? Does it need to be moved out? If it is close but lines up and doesnt rub then leave it. If it rubs just a tiny bit but lines up then personally I would grind off just enough from the edge rubbing to keep it from rubbing.

This is the way to do it. Just like on a snowmobile.

I bought some 14 gauge thick steel bushings, and using just one of them was enough to provide the clearance I was looking for. I will have to get everything mounted to the bike (driver & driven) to confirm if any additional spacing is needed.

Thank you

 

[Ding Ding]

I have the same clutch, and the same problem. I just put the clutch on without the "end keeper" part. and it works fine without it. but if you find a way to drill out that end piece, let me know. maybe you could do mine somehow?

I just drilled it out not 5 minutes ago. A drill press helps but isn't absolutely needed. The "end keeper" is just mild steel so it's fairly easy to drill through. Just bore out the hole to be 3/8 diameter and your good to go. Pretty easy. If you don't have a drill press you can use a vice and a hand drill.


All of my issues that inspired this thread are now resolved. Thanks guys.