CT200U not starting, not getting a spark

#1
My son and I are trying to get his Coleman CT200U running after it has sat dormant for about 18 months. We've added new gas and oil and can't get the engine to turn over. We pulled the plug out leaving the cable connected to see if we got a spark when pulling the cord but nothing. We've replace the plug and still no spark. We're making sure that the killswitch is in the correct position as well. What else should we be looking at? Carburetor? It was bought new about 3 years ago, btw.
 

Rapidrob

Well-Known Member
#2
Ground the plug to the head of the engine or another good metal grounding point and make sure you are getting a good spark. It needs to be blue or white and not red or orange spark.
If you still do not have a spark, make sure the wires at the on/off switch are connected and not corroded. The other wires are the ignition ground to kill the engine and the oil switch.
If you have a remote kill switch at the handle bars it too must not be shorted out.If you have this kill switch you may also have the on/off switch at the front of the engine. Both have to be On. ( kill switch spring out from handle bars)
On level ground, make sure the oil level is in fact at the full or even slightly over full to ensure the oil level switch is working.
If still no spark take off the starter housing and make sure that the flywheel is clean from rust and the gap at the coil is correct. The gap is Slightly thinner than a business card. The bolts should be tight.
If still no spark you may need to bypass the oil switch, and the on/off switch (s) to prove the coil is bad.
If you have a DVM meter I can tell you how to troubleshoot the electrical system to prove why you have no spark.
 
#3
Regarding the coil gap. Get the coil over the magnet and slide a business card in there. Loosen the bolts and let it suck itself down. Tighten the bolts and you'll be good enough gap wise.

If it ran before you guys let it sit I'd bet it's an issue with the jets in the carb being plugged up. Clean them out. That's the first place to start with any bike that's been sitting for awhile. I've had them clog up within weeks of sitting with our shitty gas here in CA.
 
#6
Regarding the coil gap. Get the coil over the magnet and slide a business card in there. Loosen the bolts and let it suck itself down. Tighten the bolts and you'll be good enough gap wise.

If it ran before you guys let it sit I'd bet it's an issue with the jets in the carb being plugged up. Clean them out. That's the first place to start with any bike that's been sitting for awhile. I've had them clog up within weeks of sitting with our shitty gas here in CA.
We will try that first. We only removed the little sediment pan and checked there but didn't go any deeper in to the carb. I'll have to look up some videos on how-to.
 
#7
Ground the plug to the head of the engine or another good metal grounding point and make sure you are getting a good spark. It needs to be blue or white and not red or orange spark.
If you still do not have a spark, make sure the wires at the on/off switch are connected and not corroded. The other wires are the ignition ground to kill the engine and the oil switch.
If you have a remote kill switch at the handle bars it too must not be shorted out.If you have this kill switch you may also have the on/off switch at the front of the engine. Both have to be On. ( kill switch spring out from handle bars)
On level ground, make sure the oil level is in fact at the full or even slightly over full to ensure the oil level switch is working.
If still no spark take off the starter housing and make sure that the flywheel is clean from rust and the gap at the coil is correct. The gap is Slightly thinner than a business card. The bolts should be tight.
If still no spark you may need to bypass the oil switch, and the on/off switch (s) to prove the coil is bad.
If you have a DVM meter I can tell you how to troubleshoot the electrical system to prove why you have no spark.
We will try all of that and I do have a DVM meter to use if it comes to that. Thank you!
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#8
We will try all of that and I do have a DVM meter to use if it comes to that. Thank you!
If you don't want to use a DVM a quick way to eliminate the kill switch on the handle bar is to remove the green wire that is attached to the gas tank stud with a 10mm nut. It will create an open circuit no matter what position the switch is in. If you still do not have spark you then know the switch was not the problem. If the engine starts the switch was the problem. To shut it off touch the wire from were you removed it. (ground)
 
#9
We will try that first. We only removed the little sediment pan and checked there but didn't go any deeper in to the carb. I'll have to look up some videos on how-to.
You'll need to clean out the jets. Just gas from sitting for a few weeks is enough to clog them up. Looking for sediment doesn't tell you anything really.
 

old shed finds

Well-Known Member
#10
Ground the plug to the head of the engine or another good metal grounding point and make sure you are getting a good spark. It needs to be blue or white and not red or orange spark.
If you still do not have a spark, make sure the wires at the on/off switch are connected and not corroded. The other wires are the ignition ground to kill the engine and the oil switch.
If you have a remote kill switch at the handle bars it too must not be shorted out.If you have this kill switch you may also have the on/off switch at the front of the engine. Both have to be On. ( kill switch spring out from handle bars)
On level ground, make sure the oil level is in fact at the full or even slightly over full to ensure the oil level switch is working.
If still no spark take off the starter housing and make sure that the flywheel is clean from rust and the gap at the coil is correct. The gap is Slightly thinner than a business card. The bolts should be tight.
If still no spark you may need to bypass the oil switch, and the on/off switch (s) to prove the coil is bad.
If you have a DVM meter I can tell you how to troubleshoot the electrical system to prove why you have no spark.
Very Very good advice. ...The oil level kill switch is more useless and often the problem. ..Always check oil level before a ride..We pulled our level switch today while doing the CVT swap.
 

Attachments

#11
Regarding the coil gap. Get the coil over the magnet and slide a business card in there. Loosen the bolts and let it suck itself down. Tighten the bolts and you'll be good enough gap wise.

If it ran before you guys let it sit I'd bet it's an issue with the jets in the carb being plugged up. Clean them out. That's the first place to start with any bike that's been sitting for awhile. I've had them clog up within weeks of sitting with our shitty gas here in CA.
We got it running! It was a dirty carburetor. Completely disassembled it and cleaned thoroughly and we're back in business. Thanks for your help!
 
#14
Wait...So after cleaning the carb you got spark? Or was that a different issue that you also fixed?
Well, after cleaning the carburetor we put everything back as it was and it cranked. Prior to this we weren't getting a spark on the plug. The carb jets were clogged and the sediment cup filthy. As far as the plug goes, we replaced it anyway for good measure before ever touching the carburetor. Anyway, we got it running and just sold it to earn money for a bigger bike.
 
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