Die for tube bender?

#1
Bought a JD2 model 32 manual tube bender the other day but have not got any dies yet. What size and radius do you guys recommend? I was thinking of starting with a 1" die with a 4.5" radius for my first die. There not cheep so cant get more than one die at a time. Was thinking a 1" on the 4.5 and a 7/8 on 4.5 should do pretty much any thing I want with mini bike. Was at first thinking a 3/4 die but think I will be making my exhaust out of 7/8 instead. What are your thoughts?
 
#2
I've got a JD Squared bender to ....I bought a 1'' die and can bend 1'' and 7/8'' tubing with it also .
I make most of my exhausts out of 1'' tubing.
 
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#3
Ya I have a 3/4" exhaust that I bought for my coleman and welded 1/2 of a 3/4" coupler to the end. I have a brigs 5-7HP muffler screwed in to it but it is only 1/2" inside diameter and I feel it is a little too small. My exhaust port is a lot larger than the header I got. On cars my header tubes are usually larger than the port. I figure the 7/8 would be needed for handlebars.
 
#6
4.5 radius is large you will not be able to make a sharp bend for an exhaust to get it into the frame. Even with a 3.5 I have issues. You can see how it comes out toward where you leg would be.

The weld near the head is so I could angle it in more otherwise it would stick out more.

I had to wrap this one after I burnt my leg.
 
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#7
You probably know this but tube is measured by the OD while pipe is ID. Smallest exhaust tube I use is 1" stainless. the ID is around .880.
 
#14
Yes by the way my pro tools bender only lists a 3" radius and larger for 1" so 2.5 would be nice. I also had a rupp continental frame that had the back cut off. the original was two tight bends and a straight in between. My 7/8 die with I think a 3.5 radius had no room for a straight section and it does not match the seat very well. Its too bad the dam dies cost so much but it sure is a nice tool. I only have a 7/8 die and a 1" die. Need to get some more when I have some spare cash.
 
#15
ya dies not cheep. Wife is holding me back on dies at the moment too cuz we got a baby coming next month. Going to have to build a side kart for the mini now :) Looks like I am wrong. I can only get the 2.5 for the 3/4" I can get 3" for the 7/8" and 1". Is 3" too tight for a 1" tube" It would make measuring things a little quicker for me.
 
#16
I don’t think they would make it if it did not work. I’ll check my two dies tomorrow and report back but I’m pretty sure both are 3.5.
 
#17
I guess if I need a tighter bend for exhaust I could take the time and pie cut some tube. I can get a free stick welder from one of my in laws and convert it to a tig. Would look cool to have a tig welded stainless exhaust. I think I need a second job to support my hobby's.
 
#18
Guys don't buy 1 inch and 7/8 inch dies. There is no need to buy both. You can buy a piece of thin wall 1 inch and make a shoe that fits in the die then the 7/8 inch will fit fine. Just figure the wall thickness and you can bend anything under 1 inch by making a shoe. You can bend 1/2 inch with a 1/4 inch wall shoe. 3/4 with 1/8 wall shoe. We bend small tubing with a shoe in larger dies at school. Works like a charm. Just make sure that the seam in the tubing is on the outside and then split it so that it sits flush in the die. All you want/need is the inner half of the bend.

I have a JD squared with 1 inch dies and if I remember correctly they are a 3 inch radius.

We have a Tube Shark at school. Its a bad dude. I still like the simplicity of my JD.....

Tubeshark | Pipe & Tube Bender with Pneumatic Pump Power Unit

TubeShark Pipe & Tube Bender | Tube Bending Die Package

Doug
 
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#19
Not to interject an off topic question into this thread but would one of you guys with a bender be interested in "bending for hire" to help with a frame repair project?

I have a Keystone frame that I am trying to repair and have not been successful in sourcing someone local to me for help.

I am based in DFW area of Texas. Please feel free to contact me via PM or otherwise.
 
#20
If you are just going to fabricate an exhaust, occasionally (not build frames, etc.), I think it makes sense to just buy mandrel bends. There are other sources, obviously, but I recently stumbled upon a retailer that has a great selection, including very tight bends. I made an exhaust from mandrel bent sections for my then new truck 13 years ago; it's still in use and hasn't needed any repairs (surprising since I used carbon steel). I stick welded it using a cheap AC machine and 1/16" electrodes, 6013 root followed by 7014 reinforcement. I sprayed the exhaust with flat black heat paint (don't remember brand) to hopefully make it last longer, but I never would have expected it to last this long.

Mild Steel Mandrel Bends, 16 Gauge

Verocious Motorsports Stainless Steel Mandrel Bends
 
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