Do you need a billet rod and flywheel for governer stuff?
- Thread starter rowanb
- Start date
DO NOT zip tie the governor spring on exterior. The governor plastic gear can break from you over spinning it and it can break your moter. If you want to push your engine to it's limits remove the interior governor and add valve springs, upgraded flywheel, and upgraded rod. What moter do you have? Pictures are great. And I will link the parts you need!!
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Leave the stock carburetor and linkage connected to the governor arm.
When you have a billet rod and flywheel, read and understand how to properly install them. While you have the side cover off to install the connecting rod, remove the governor and the rod that goes through the top of the case. Plug that hole with a bolt and nut or tap the hole and install a plug to keep the oil in the engine. Install the flywheel and now, you are ready for the motorcycle carburetor.
When you have a billet rod and flywheel, read and understand how to properly install them. While you have the side cover off to install the connecting rod, remove the governor and the rod that goes through the top of the case. Plug that hole with a bolt and nut or tap the hole and install a plug to keep the oil in the engine. Install the flywheel and now, you are ready for the motorcycle carburetor.
I have seen them installed with some kind of solder or welded in place. If you can't back it out with a screw driver, just cut it off. That will give you a lot more power and speed without messing with the governor.
After you quit smiling about your speed, come on back and we can show you how to tweak it a little bit without changing anything.
I do not remove governors and I do not (generally) mess with motorcycle carbs on lawnmower engines.
After you quit smiling about your speed, come on back and we can show you how to tweak it a little bit without changing anything.
I do not remove governors and I do not (generally) mess with motorcycle carbs on lawnmower engines.
Rather than zip tying the governor some of the easiest mods you can make to a 196 clone cost nothing. The second easiest costs less than $20 normally. On the governor arm itself there are several holes the governor linkage can be set to. Putting that the furthest out so the governor itself pulls back the throttle less will safely increase speed. There is also a throttle stop screw on the throttle plate that can be adjusted or removed entirely.
The dirt cheap mods are to replace the stock carb with an adjustable stock carb with a bigger emulsion tube and main jet, there are kits you can buy on amazon for ~$20. Just bolt on and there is basically zero adjustment needed typically outside of setting the idle screw. The slide carbs like the VM22 and Nibi carbs typically take a lot of tooling around to get running right. The final cheap thing that can be done is that most of these bikes come with a jackshaft setup that also limits speed, it's common to remove the jackshaft and straight chain it from the clutch to the rear sprocket with an idler added to stop the chain from rubbing the frame.
I've seen enough pictures of things going wrong with stock parts that I don't think it's worth the risk. I know it's also possible to get a bike to go 45mph on a governed engine and that is plenty of speed for a day to day rider, honestly 30mph is enough. One of the last things you want or need is the flywheel magnet coming loose and tearing off the ignition coil. Or the connecting rod giving out, destroying the crank and potentially leaving a hole in the engine block. Better to do safe mods for now, save up for a rod, flywheel and a mild cam before going down the route of removing the governor.
This is a 212 that I stuffed about $300 into. It costs more than the Predator alone did that I got on sale for $100, but it beats buying 4 predators over however long they would survive without governors.
The dirt cheap mods are to replace the stock carb with an adjustable stock carb with a bigger emulsion tube and main jet, there are kits you can buy on amazon for ~$20. Just bolt on and there is basically zero adjustment needed typically outside of setting the idle screw. The slide carbs like the VM22 and Nibi carbs typically take a lot of tooling around to get running right. The final cheap thing that can be done is that most of these bikes come with a jackshaft setup that also limits speed, it's common to remove the jackshaft and straight chain it from the clutch to the rear sprocket with an idler added to stop the chain from rubbing the frame.
I've seen enough pictures of things going wrong with stock parts that I don't think it's worth the risk. I know it's also possible to get a bike to go 45mph on a governed engine and that is plenty of speed for a day to day rider, honestly 30mph is enough. One of the last things you want or need is the flywheel magnet coming loose and tearing off the ignition coil. Or the connecting rod giving out, destroying the crank and potentially leaving a hole in the engine block. Better to do safe mods for now, save up for a rod, flywheel and a mild cam before going down the route of removing the governor.
This is a 212 that I stuffed about $300 into. It costs more than the Predator alone did that I got on sale for $100, but it beats buying 4 predators over however long they would survive without governors.
