Engine paint question

[Smally]

I have just finished bead blasting my HM100 for my super bronc restoration. Can you guys tell me what works for engine paint. Do I do the block with hi temp paint and hit the sheet metal with the regular paint. Thanks for the help.

 

[ole4]

I used summit single stage ureathane on my tec, worked well has a high gloss and is gas resistant. Markus probably has the most experience with this maybe he will chime in.

 

[Fantic Freddy]

If you want to rattle can it, yes, use High temp paint for the engine, or anything that touches the engine. VHT and Rustoleum make good high temperature paint. If you want a pro finish, use what Ole4 said.

 

[Richard Trotter]

Test your paint for gas resistance.

 

[markus]

I used summit single stage ureathane on my tec, worked well has a high gloss and is gas resistant. Markus probably has the most experience with this maybe he will chime in.

Same as ole, After years of trying most all the other ways suggested on this site I have found using single stage mix and spray automotive grade paint for my engines has yielded the best results for me :thumbsup:

 

[Havasu Dave]

Single stage yes, I agree, but I now use acrylic enamel because the urethane builds up too much in the fins and nooks and crannies.

You can use cheap, non high temp spray paint out of a can from the hardware store. However your petroleum vapors will eat it, as will outright fuel spills.

Some of the guys buy premixed single stage automotive paints and clears in aerosol cans- about 20 bucks a can.

 

[delray]

i found by using a automotive etching primer filled in a aerosol can with just a lite coat on the block for the paint to stick well and then couple lite coats of briggs aerosol paint. that just happen to be the color i needed for my project. then two lite coats of automotive ureathane clear mix in a small paint gun did the trick for me. it sealed the decals and protects it from the gas element:thumbsup:. it still kept all the original numbers stamp on the tin cover. if i did the primer stage any different i would of lost the numbers and if i sprayed the color through a gun.:doah:
to much automotive primer and paint sometimes can just kill your project...........

 

[ogygopsis]

i found by using a automotive etching primer filled in a aerosol can with just a lite coat on the block for the paint to stick well and then couple lite coats of briggs aerosol paint. that just happen to be the color i needed for my project. then two lite coats of automotive ureathane clear mix in a small paint gun did the trick for me. it sealed the decals and protects it from the gas element:thumbsup:. it still kept all the original numbers stamp on the tin cover. if i did it the primer stage any different i would of lost the numbers and if i sprayed the color through a gun.:doah:
to much automotive primer and paint sometimes can just kill your project...........

Beautiful job Delray. Better than factory original! Ogy

 

[golden pinto]

I've tried several & vht eng primer & eng. paint Mick purchased at auto zone...works better than dupli color

 

[Smally]

Thanks for all the insight guys. I am looking for that level of quality cause the rest of the mini will be there.

 

[delray]

Smally,post some pictures of the bike when finish....:thumbsup:

 

[Smally]

That, you can count on. I feel like I'm on a west coast chopper build. This is exciting stuff.......

 

[jophisaz]

Rustoleum high temp engine paint and then 4 coats of high temp clear, any oil or gas spills will wipe out with wax after the initial 1 week dry time as long as you don't let the fuel sit on it. like I said and it is just fine as long as you wipe off spills.

 

[chatten63]

I personally use automotive base coat clear coat. All of the aresol paints are thick. Base coat is light and not filling in numbers or stamping marks in the metal. This is if you can spray them this way. Not everyone has access to a paint shop. Tecumseh white i use paint code W101. Honda passport 2001 color. Briggs is a chevrolet color i use but can't recall the code or car its from. I don't clear over the decals mainly because it makes them too shiney. Yes it protects them but this is my personal opinion on this and don't want to get into a pissing match about it with others on here.

 

[aarron]

I wanted to show off some pics of the 5hp Briggs for my T100 build. It's coming out pretty nice. This was PPG base/clear.

 

[mrpat]

looks great!

 

[SCooke123]

Good advice everyone - thanks!!!

 

[Doc1976]

I wanted to show off some pics of the 5hp Briggs for my T100 build. It's coming out pretty nice. This was PPG base/clear.

View attachment 103910 View attachment 103911 View attachment 103912 View attachment 103914

Now THAT is a good looking motor. Nice paint work :thumbsup:

 

[aarron]

Now THAT is a good looking motor. Nice paint work :thumbsup:

Thanks a lot. I spent a lot of time bead blasting and making sure every bit of grease and dirt were off that thing. I rebuilt it and made sure it was running good before I blew it apart to paint.

 

[Doc1976]

for me, paint is always the worst part. Not because I'm bad at it, just takes so much time and prep. that's probably why I have three finished bikes in the shop right now that just need paint!