First build, the "Jimmy Gote"

#41
Why can't you ride off road?
Michael
Forest Service controls most of the state. They have closed a lot of the forest land to motorized traffic. A lot of roads we used to ride are closed. Most roads require a license plate and insurance. Other roads require a Forest Service Off Road permit which requires a title and a special off road license plate if you are not street legal. The area I hunt has some of it closed to even horse traffic.
 
#44
I bought a trailer fender from Tractor Supply and used it for the front fender. But it was too narrow for the rear. But it was too long, so a bit of cutting and welding and I have a wide rear fender and a place to mount the tail light. My first attempt at a TC cover was expanded metal clamped between two pieces of wood cut to form, and some gentle massaging with a hammer. It worked, but was a bit too large and I just didn't like it. So I made this one out of strap. Maybe not the best looking, but hell for stout. Trying to get all the street legal stuff done this weekend for my DMV inspection next wed. Basic insurance is around 140 bucks a year for it. I can't get insurance until I have a VIN number, but can't get a VIN till I get insurance. Insurance company said they would bluff something for me to get titled then change their paper work. I took a couple pics of my chain adjusters. Mostly trying to make it bullet proof, not pretty. Duct taped a cushion on it today and went for a ride in the woods. Rocky rock, lots of bouncing, but nothing fell off and I'm not bleeding. Oh, the front forks have about 3 inches of travel now. I am running around 12-15lbs air pressure, this about right?
 
#45
After my hopefully successful title application I will tear it down, add welds, gussets, prime and paint. Hopefully find someone to do the seat locally. Need to make a battery box where the muffler used to be. I am thinking of adding a pair of ammo cans for saddle bags. Tho cutting around the muffler might be fun. A bit of storage might be a good thing. So far It seems to have lots of power, spinning the tire is almost at will. I think my goal of it hauling me and a few hundred pounds of gear/elk/buddy should be real easily done.
 
#46
Hey jim, thanks for the update. I see you are using a chain tensioner. My experience with mine is that when spring loaded I had a lot of slack in the drive train because of the chain. So, I used the spring to preload the tension and then tightened up the bolt so that the tensioner is rock solid. That improved things dramatically. What has been your experience so far?
 
#48
Hey jim, thanks for the update. I see you are using a chain tensioner. My experience with mine is that when spring loaded I had a lot of slack in the drive train because of the chain. So, I used the spring to preload the tension and then tightened up the bolt so that the tensioner is rock solid. That improved things dramatically. What has been your experience so far?
So far I don't have a lot of miles on it. A problem I did have was the jackshaft slipping under torque. I had to loosen js bolts and pry the pillow blocks where I wanted them, then weld tabs on the frame for the pillow blocks to rest against. Seems to have cured that problem. By using 1/2 links I was able to get the chains pretty tight and do not notice any slop in the drive train. I made sure I put the chain tensioner on the slack side, not the power side and tried to imagine if the spring came off or broke what would happen to the idler sprocket. In some cases the chain could pull the sprocket into the chain like a wedge and break stuff. I wasn't sure how much spring I needed either, I think too much pressure is probably just right. In your case maybe you didn't have enough? I have no way to adjust my chains. I thought of shims under the pillow blocks, but thought that would be a pain to do. Also I have a bronze bushing on the pivot point of the tensioner so have no way to snug it down. But an adjustable bolt in place of the spring would work.
 
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#49
So far I don't have a lot of miles on it. A problem I did have was the jackshaft slipping under torque. I had to loosen js bolts and pry the pillow blocks where I wanted them, then weld tabs on the frame for the pillow blocks to rest against. Seems to have cured that problem. By using 1/2 links I was able to get the chains pretty tight and do not notice any slop in the drive train. I made sure I put the chain tensioner on the slack side, not the power side and tried to imagine if the spring came off or broke what would happen to the idler sprocket. In some cases the chain could pull the sprocket into the chain like a wedge and break stuff. I wasn't sure how much spring I needed either, I think too much pressure is probably just right. In your case maybe you didn't have enough? I have no way to adjust my chains. I thought of shims under the pillow blocks, but thought that would be a pain to do. Also I have a bronze bushing on the pivot point of the tensioner so have no way to snug it down. But an adjustable bolt in place of the spring would work.
I built my chain tensioner bracket with slots to allow for adjustment of the spring tension and even with a lot of tension on the chain I still had the slack drivetrain problem. Even now, the torqued down bolt allows for a little slipping of the chain tension after riding for awhile, so I bought a high strength bolt and nut combo which I have yet to install. I'll be torquing the bolt as much as I think it will withstand. The chain tensioner I bought came with a nylock nut and allows for letting the tensioner rotate or be tightened so it doesn't move (I hope).
 
#50
I built my chain tensioner bracket with slots to allow for adjustment of the spring tension and even with a lot of tension on the chain I still had the slack drivetrain problem. Even now, the torqued down bolt allows for a little slipping of the chain tension after riding for awhile, so I bought a high strength bolt and nut combo which I have yet to install. I'll be torquing the bolt as much as I think it will withstand. The chain tensioner I bought came with a nylock nut and allows for letting the tensioner rotate or be tightened so it doesn't move (I hope).
Can you use two bolts? Would a star type lock washer grip better? You might try ruffing up the contact surface where they mate. A small punch and a bunch of dings or ruff it with sand paper? Maybe a drop of LockTite between them. A larger, fender type, washer for more contact area.
 
#51
Can you use two bolts? Would a star type lock washer grip better? You might try ruffing up the contact surface where they mate. A small punch and a bunch of dings or ruff it with sand paper? Maybe a drop of LockTite between them. A larger, fender type, washer for more contact area.
I have two star washers in place now. If the higher torque of the new bolt doesn't work I may try your other ideas.
 
#52
A few more pics. I added head and tail lights, both LED. Mirror, brake light switch. battery box and I think I got the seat latch figured out. Not as heavy duty as I was hoping for, but I think it will work. I used spring clips for hanging tools, will mount them to the seat with t-nuts and clip on the battery box. Oh, and I built the bumper carrier, just need to make a ramp now.
 

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#59
Jim I have to hand it to you that is one hell of a ride especially built from scratch as you have. I know winging things at certain points can be a little unnerving but the satisfaction is there. My hats off to ya brother. by the way I like the JLO routine LOL. :thumbsup: :scooter:
 
#60
Here in Arizona a lot of women look like they are chewing gum when they walk away, tho a few look more like it's chewing tobacco. I swear I saw one spit in Walmart the other day.
 
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