I searched the hydraulic brake threads and didn't see anything for the front. However, I did see that some have transferred the stock rear brake to the front and replaced the front tire with a rear tire and rotor. I already have the hydraulic kit for the rear. I would like to upgrade the front to hydraulic too, especially with a biger engine in the frame. Does anyone know of a direct bolt on kit for the front with a shorter brake line?
On the cheap you can use the stock rear brake. You really dont want the power of a hydro brake up front and you already have a Stock rear when you did the Hydro rear.
Yes it is a rear rim on the front. Unless you want to make a new hub its the only way to go. You will also have to fabricate a caliper mount. There are currently no kits for front brakes. The one you see are all one off's.
The only Hydro brakes that I know that you can cut and shorten the lines are the Mountain Bike type since it's a reusable compression fitting that clamps down on the tube. The others cant be shortened since the have one time compression fitting around the out side.
ACTUALLY I found one that LOOKS to be a direct bolt on (not sure) and it is for the frond brake.
X7, X15, X18 super pocket bike parts, brakes for super pocket bikes, 4-stroke 110cc brakes
X7, X15, X18 super pocket bike parts, brakes for super pocket bikes, 4-stroke 110cc brakes
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Very true. It would be the most cost efficient way. But it would be nice to say you have hydro front and back, not to mention its a lot more control over the braking as he could adjust the braking force, or have a lot of play in the lever. I would personally put the stock rear brake on there, at least for the time being until you mount the hydro.
I have put the rear mechanical brake on the front of my DB30 and a hydraulic on the back. I would not recommend a hydraulic on the front, it would be too grabby, With the mechanical front brake you have to careful not to lock up the front wheel as it is all ready. It easy to do when riding on anything beside to road.
Someone else ask about this not too long ago, and my advice is the use the money you would send for the front hydraulic brake and put it towards engine hop up parts after you put the mechanical rear on the front of the bike and hydraulic on the rear, It will stop you fast when needed. My upgraded DB30 has the best braking system of all the minibikes I have.
Someone else ask about this not too long ago, and my advice is the use the money you would send for the front hydraulic brake and put it towards engine hop up parts after you put the mechanical rear on the front of the bike and hydraulic on the rear, It will stop you fast when needed. My upgraded DB30 has the best braking system of all the minibikes I have.
I have the stock rear brakes on my bike and they just dont cut it. I think they are damaged or something, the pads are fine i checked them, it just doesnt seem to matter how much i tighten the cable, it always seems as if my brake lever just does not pull the cable far enough for the brakes to lock. any input as to why this may be? its just a regular old mini bike brake lever from OldMiniBikes not the expensive one.
If it is a DB 30, there is a knob right in the middle of the caliper. Fiddle with it and it will put the pads right up next to the disc. What happens to most is that the lever will only move the pads so close no matter how tight you have the cable adjusted. You have to adjust the knob also when the pads get worn down.
I had two 6.5 powered DBs and one had hydraulic and one stock and both stopped equally as good as it turned out. I'm not knocking the juice brakes but a well maintained manual caliper works fine. Locking up a wheel is risky but both mine would do it with a firm pull of the lever, the juice brakes were a bit much if anything. Same pads same area covered, the only difference is the way they are applied. An upgrade would be a larger braking surface regardless of how applied. I run a DB wheel on the Rat Bastard chopper and used a manual caliper that stops it cold.
Mechanical can not compare to hydraulic, I have tested three different DB30's before and after the upgrade. The mechanical is just scary and unsafe for anyone! All DB30's have 6.5hp motors also. You can run a distribution block with brake bias, put more pressure to the back then front. And it would be tunable to your liking.:wink:
