Heald factory headlight.

[Sprocket86]

I am starting to look into wiring this from what appears to be the stock hi/lo beam headlight assembly.

I think these were originally connected directly to the 12v battery and the engines stator AC output was rectified into DC voltage to charge the battery. Makes sense.
If my Tec HM-80 only has a 1 wire lighting coil (3 amp output at 12VAC) it won’t supply enough current to power both the headlight (low beam filament) and the running light portion of the 1157 bulb in the taillight correct?
Also what are the two individual switches on the headlight housing for? I think the high beam indicator lamp is super cool. I want to say this is the original GE sealed beam bulb.
I would like to see if I can restore the chrome finish on the headlight housing.
Not a replate but using some vinegar and steel wool.

 

[chrisr]

By default, the charging system on the older Tec like yours with points I believe would be enough to power the front and rear light without a battery (at least mine can). At idle, you will note the front light is dim and when you are riding it brightens up. However, without a diode this is AC voltage and is unregulated. With AC voltage and/or unregulated DC voltage the battery will not last long. On mine, I do not allow the engine to charge the battery, rather, use a battery tender to re-charge after riding.

 

[ole4]

This is the wiring for the 3 amp HS50.

 

[markus]

what is your magneto assembly part number (if you were to look up the the actual model number on say partstree it will also show "attachments for this model" it will be the MG number). That headlight is 30/30w, and 1157 (running light filament powered only) pull in 5-6w area, if its a true 3amp AC circuit it will be the correct wattage at running RPM range. to run them both at the same time (cant run the brake light filament though!, that pull about 25 watts on its own at 12v)

I have some of those pm711 headlight shells NOS

 

[Sprocket86]

By default, the charging system on the older Tec like yours with points I believe would be enough to power the front and rear light without a battery (at least mine can). At idle, you will note the front light is dim and when you are riding it brightens up. However, without a diode this is AC voltage and is unregulated. With AC voltage and/or unregulated DC voltage the battery will not last long. On mine, I do not allow the engine to charge the battery, rather, use a battery tender to re-charge after riding.

I have had other mini's in the past with a single filament headlight and taillight and the light output would increase with RPM's

I really don't plan on using a small lead acid battery for E start use. If I can get the engine that's currently on the bike (1 wire stator) to power the stock headlight low beam and the tail light I'll be happy. I actually plan on using the factory key ignition switch to control the headlight and taillight.

 

[Sprocket86]

This is the wiring for the 3 amp HS50.

Thank you. This will definitely come in handy if I swap out the current later model HM-80 to the 1971 engine that has the 3 pin connector.

 

[Sprocket86]

what is your magneto assembly part number (if you were to look up the the actual model number on say partstree it will also show "attachments for this model" it will be the MG number). That headlight is 30/30w, and 1157 (running light filament powered only) pull in 5-6w area, if its a true 3amp AC circuit it will be the correct wattage at running RPM range. to run them both at the same time (cant run the brake light filament though!, that pull about 25 watts on its own at 12v)

I have some of those pm711 headlight shells NOS

I would have to assume the engine that came on the bike retains its original blower housing. I don't really have a way of telling as it has been sandblasted and painted primer grey. The numbers are; HM-80-155448P SER 1267B Going off the ignition coil type and flywheel, I want to say this engine (if the OG fan shroud) is from 1991. I will have to run that number through PartsTree.

If I understand what your saying correctly, I can power both hi/lo beam and the running light of a 1157 bulb with said 3amp output AC coil?

Hopefully so. This is a neat headlight and I want to use it.

That's pretty cool and that has to be a rare find!

 

[creia]

The push button switch is the headlight on/off and the toggle switch is the low/high beam. On my VT-8 Bronc the charging system can power the headlight, taillight, and stoplight at the same time when the engine is running at higher rpms. At idle, however, the lights (especially the headlight) go pretty dim.
Michael

 

[Biffmini]

Never use steel wool
Get some quick glo

 

[Skipp]

Aluminum foil and water to start then go to foil and metal polish….

 

[Sprocket86]

The push button switch is the headlight on/off and the toggle switch is the low/high beam. On my VT-8 Bronc the charging system can power the headlight, taillight, and stoplight at the same time when the engine is running at higher rpms. At idle, however, the lights (especially the headlight) go pretty dim.
Michael

Thank you. I thought the push button was the HI/LO beam switch. "Where is the relay" was my thought.

This helps a lot and plan to wire the HI/LO beam and the running light portion of the taillight.

 

[Sprocket86]

Aluminum foil and water to start then go to foil and metal polish….

I'll try that out. The pitting is very minimal so I expect decent results.

 

[Skipp]

I'll try that out. The pitting is very minimal so I expect decent results.

It will cause no damage

 

[markus]

If I understand what your saying correctly, I can power both hi/lo beam and the running light of a 1157 bulb with said 3amp output AC coil?

Hopefully so. This is a neat headlight and I want to use it.

That's pretty cool and that has to be a rare find!

You have too many numbers in your model number. If it is an electronic ignition and does have some type of wiring from underneath the flywheel then you can change the alternator out if what you have is not enough. Usually a single wire is either 18w which will not be enough to do much (those were for like a single bulb headlight on a snow thrower. or a 3amp DC battery charge only. If you have 3 magnets under the flywheel they make/made a 12v 3amp 2 wire setup I bought a bunch of them in the past when I made up a bunch of small and some medium frame lighting setup for electronic ignitions. If its 5 magnet under there I would use maybe a 3/5 split alternator Its 3amps DC for the battery and 5 amps AC for lighting could maybe get away with powering lights and the brake light off that by maybe dropping the bulb size on the tail light.....they have a few options on the 1157 style bulbs to choose from, but it will be a big pull on the circuit when pulling the brake and engaging the switch.

I did some write ups in the past about the alternators, I made a few lighting systems for small and medium frame engines. Same applies for the hm80’s as they used the same systems, just physically larger flywheels on the outside.

neat to see and know that Heald used the PM stamped shells from time to time. Seen them in use pre1968 but most of the time they had the AP stamping. They were actually the same company from what I have researched, just offered different ways.

 

[Sprocket86]

You have too many numbers in your model number. If it is an electronic ignition and does have some type of wiring from underneath the flywheel then you can change the alternator out if what you have is not enough. Usually a single wire is either 18w which will not be enough to do much (those were for like a single bulb headlight on a snow thrower. or a 3amp DC battery charge only. If you have 3 magnets under the flywheel they make/made a 12v 3amp 2 wire setup I bought a bunch of them in the past when I made up a bunch of small and some medium frame lighting setup for electronic ignitions. If its 5 magnet under there I would use maybe a 3/5 split alternator Its 3amps DC for the battery and 5 amps AC for lighting could maybe get away with powering lights and the brake light off that by maybe dropping the bulb size on the tail light.....they have a few options on the 1157 style bulbs to choose from, but it will be a big pull on the circuit when pulling the brake and engaging the switch.

I did some write ups in the past about the alternators, I made a few lighting systems for small and medium frame engines. Same applies for the hm80’s as they used the same systems, just physically larger flywheels on the outside.

neat to see and know that Heald used the PM stamped shells from time to time. Seen them in use pre1968 but most of the time they had the AP stamping. They were actually the same company from what I have researched, just offered different ways. View attachment 298589

Your right I sure do lol. I had 1 too many 8's in there. I spent some time today and I got the headlight wiring sorted out. These sure are cool little units. I definitely need a larger output coil. The light is pretty dim, even when the engine is above idle speed. I ran the model number through partstree and I didn't see any optional charging coils from what I could tell.

I will have to remove the flywheel and have a look and see what one is in there. I feel its the 18w like you mentioned based on the dim light output and the fact that %90 of Tecumseh HM series of engines in the snow belt started life on a snowblower.

Do you happen to have any of those lighting coils by chance and what is the part no#? I don't think I'm going to wire in the brake light portion of the tail light at this time. Maybe at some point if I go full E start with a proper reg/rec and 12v battery.

I'll have to look for those posts you made. I always enjoy reding your posts and detailed Tecumseh information you share and provide.

They are definitely a cool headlight assembly for sure. I would imagine they were used on all sorts of American/Canadian made small vehicles back in the heyday. When I saw the PM 711 stamping I knew i had to share it on here.

 

[Sprocket86]

Here are some photos of the headlight in operation. The red high beam indicator is pretty cool. The output is pretty weak so I’m going to upgrade the coil.