hello from snohomish, wa

toomanytoys

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#22
#22
superflea said:
This one was for the older ones that came with a cable operated disc brake. Sorry to mislead you. It bolted right on to those bikes. He also made a jackshaft bolt on for those same bikes. I'll see if I can find the thread.
Click to expand...
Not your fault! Two bikes in the thread. I just got overly excited to see a hydraulic brake setup that I didn't have to build myself! The drum brakes on the CT bikes work great sometimes! I upgraded the pads and it helps but the hydraulic brakes are always a huge upgrade.
 
creia

creia

#23
#23
superflea said:
I can't remember the name but the guy is a member on here. Also I think the old OldMiniBikes carried his brakes. Someone on here will pipe in I'm sure.
Click to expand...
You are referring to Brad who owned Hotrodminibkes.com. Sadly, he closed up quite awhile ago. His hydraulic brake kits were for the "old style" Baja Doodlebug DB-30. I purchased a couple of sets from him and yes they were bolt on and worked quite well.
Michael
 
Last edited:
G

grilled cheese

Member
#24
#24
thats pretty funny ive been researching hydraulic brake setups for both bikes haha!!!
i have a welder at work and would absolutely love front and rear hydraulic brakes on the bikes.
didnt do anything to the bikes today, too rainy.
i did however splurge on gopowersports to take advantage of the black friday deals, got the 30 series tav and the juggernaut driver, hopefully its a noticeable difference!
new chain also ordered to accomodate new tc, contemplating ordering a new rear sprocket as well.
still waiting for my mikuni vm22, but the bike should be quite the ripper.

currently have new tires in hand, but im at a loss how to get them off or on. anyone have experience taking wheels to a tire shop? my time is important. if it costs less than $100 to have both tires mounted and balanced by a shop, id rather save my one of two precious weekend days off struggling to unmount and mount tires on my minibike by myself.

still floating build ideas around for the coleman, it runs as is and my lil brother can ride w me now so its staying stock for the time being.
needs more power, thinking i might ditch the entire 212 and get a 420cc predator.... time will tell.
will update tomorrow with some beauty pics!
 
toomanytoys

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#26
#26
Remove the valve core. Jump up in the air and land with your feet on either side of the rim close to the bead. It should pop right off. Flip tire and do other side. Use 2 big flat blade screw drivers to walk the tire off the rim.

I had 15 minutes into off and on with new tires. Easy as can be!

If anyone charges you a 100 dollars to do 2 minibike tires they are robbing you blind.

My buddy does small tires for 10 bucks each.
 
G

grilled cheese

Member
#27
#27
toomanytoys said:
Remove the valve core. Jump up in the air and land with your feet on either side of the rim close to the bead. It should pop right off. Flip tire and do other side. Use 2 big flat blade screw drivers to walk the tire off the rim.

I had 15 minutes into off and on with new tires. Easy as can be!
Click to expand...
awesome man thank you for the easy explanation!! i was definitely overthinking it haha
 
Mr. Pink

Mr. Pink

Well-Known Member
#31
#31
A couple of questions:

1. What’s the brand and model of the upgrade forks?
And how’s the ride compared to the original equipment?

2. Why did you remove the original springy foot pegs and go with solid?
 
G

grilled cheese

Member
#32
#32
Mr. Pink said:
A couple of questions:

1. What’s the brand and model of the upgrade forks?
And how’s the ride compared to the original equipment?

2. Why did you remove the original springy foot pegs and go with solid?
Click to expand...
forks are from gopowersports
difference is night and day
when i rode with the foot pegs my feet had a tedency to shift back, the speed of the bike made the pegs rotate and it felt awkward and unsafe
 
G

grilled cheese

Member
#37
#37
50t - 12t
vs.
38t - 10t

16” tires

can anyone shed some light? i was thinking about getting a new chain and cant decide which setup to go with. i have the original 50t from the coleman and the 12t from the tav, just wanted to get a fresh chain since im getting new everything else. this got me curious about my ratio , upon research i could gain a few mph with a new smaller rear sprocket and the 10t #420 that came with the tav.

i did some googling and dont really know what im looking at.

my predator 212 has:
30 series tav w juggernaut driver
mikuni vm22 w jets
upgraded 20lbs. valve springs
open header to briggs and stratton tractor muffler
new 16x6.5-8 tires

i googled the max rpm of a stock predator and found 3600rpm. unsure whether my mods change any of that. with that info and using this calculator i found i currently have a 4.1 gear ratio, with a 41mph max speed.

new 10t front drive sprocket and rear 38t would bring my ratio to 3.8 and a max speed of 45mph.

would the main noticeable difference be more sluggish off the line and take longer to reach the top speed?
 
SAS289

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#39
#39
With the Juggernaut use the 10 tooth and 38 tooth. If you use 10/50 tooth you may get too much RPM at speed with the stock engine internals.

Once you go with a Mikuni you should also go with a billet rod and flywheel. This way higher than governed RPM is much safer for you and the engine.
 
G

grilled cheese

Member
#40
#40
SAS289 said:
With the Juggernaut use the 10 tooth and 38 tooth. If you use 10/50 tooth you may get too much RPM at speed with the stock engine internals.

Once you go with a Mikuni you should also go with a billet rod and flywheel. This way higher than governed RPM is much safer for you and the engine.
Click to expand...
awesome thank you for the input!
been oogling over those billet engine parts for a while, guess nows the time!
if im opening up the engine anyways, is there anything else i should get and install while im in there?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top