Help for a newer flathead Briggs - carb and more

#1
Good evening,

SUMMARY:
Is a PZ19 (or any similar sized carb - PZ20, VM22, etc...) suitable for a B&S Quantum 190cc 124T flathead engine (These models no longer have a power rating but I assume it's a 4-5HP)?

UPDATE: I found some users talking about the Tecumseh HS50 engine (which has similar displacement and power) and they said that stock,
the PZ16 is actually a very good carb and both 19/22mm are suitable if some mods are done and need rejetting. Does anyone have any experience regarding this?

FULL STORY:

I'm learning a lot from reading all the posts here. However, I need some guidance, if possible.
I'm an engineering student and am currently working on a project where I have to modify two flathead engines to compare the performance between stock and opposed piston engine configuration.
Due to the unique configuration and flathead engines not being readily available, I ended up buying two B&S 124T engines.
I've been preparing all the parts for modifying but I lack the experience and would deeply appreciate all your experience regarding a few issues I have.

- Initially, I wanted to use the stock carburetors (reference 799866). However, these flo-jet carbs are very basic and don't allow any tuning. Also, the modifications necessary to be able to throttle and choke make it more complex since I wanta single throttle for both carbs. As such, II'm considering replacing the stock carb with a PZ19 or PZ20 which would make my life easier and allow for tuning the carbs. However, these seem to be for up to 125cc engines, not 190cc such as this engine.

The idea here is not to get the best performance but to compare the performance gains, therefore I do not need the best carb but it should be compatible and suitable to this engine.

I can either install a similarly sized carb (19mm) or adapt the intake to a 27-30mm carb. However, after reading some threads, it seems that for these lower power engines, the PZ19 or PZ20 should be enough since the performance is going to be kept close to stock.
By the way, no port modifications or compression ratio changes are going to be made since that's not the objective of the project.
Also, the ID of the port is 19mm, the original intake manifold pipe is 16mm ID and the carb is 19mm ID as well.

I disassembled the entire engine and will keep the stock exhaust, disable the governor and modify the intake so that the carburetor will end up above the flywheel and starter, through the shroud.
Also, the petrol to be used is 95 octane E5 (it's the standard rating in my country).
Also, I can always make an adapter for a larger carburator and reduce the ID to the 19mm at the engine intake but I feel that I won't have any gains by installing a larger carb. And I may end up reducing the throttle response.
Could you shed some light?

- Also, I've read some people talking about deleting the exhaust muffler. I can delete the muffler and use a 90º bend and straight pipe. It even would be useful in the long run once a turbocharger and electronic injection system are installed. But will it reduce performance, increase or not have any significant impact (due to the back pressure)?
- Any more advice, questions, suggestions?

I can share some pictures of the project as it will go along if you are interered.

Thank you all for the help,
Best regards,

Alexandre

PS: The engine models are similar to the 124T engine.
The shaft output will be horizontal, the exhaust will probably be kept stock (one pointing to the bottom and the other to the top) and for the intake, I am going to make an adapter to remove the 90º bend and go straight to the back.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
#2
First off, turn the blocks so those cylinders will be at the outside of the engine. One cylinder sharing dual carbs and dual exhaust will cause huge problems with induction and exhaust balance. You really need the cooling fins on the heads to avoid detonation and avoid a piston meltdown when running under load. Parasitic drag will be reduced with roller or ball bearings on the crankshaft. Teflon coating applied to the piston or cylinder will help a lot. Using only one thin compression ring will cut drag. A high quality carburetor such as Mikuni that can be precisely adjusted will provide huge gains over the stock carbs that leave much to be desired. These are just my opinions. We usually want more power not 1000mpg minibikes. We might have to change our thinking a bit to help you win this project!
 
#3
First off, turn the blocks so those cylinders will be at the outside of the engine. One cylinder sharing dual carbs and dual exhaust will cause huge problems with induction and exhaust balance. You really need the cooling fins on the heads to avoid detonation and avoid a piston meltdown when running under load. Parasitic drag will be reduced with roller or ball bearings on the crankshaft. Teflon coating applied to the piston or cylinder will help a lot. Using only one thin compression ring will cut drag. A high quality carburetor such as Mikuni that can be precisely adjusted will provide huge gains over the stock carbs that leave much to be desired. These are just my opinions. We usually want more power not 1000mpg minibikes. We might have to change our thinking a bit to help you win this project!
Thank you very much for your input.
Modifing the engines in such a drastic way is not the objective. I really only want to be able to convert the vertical engine to horizontal and install a suitable carb so that it will work fine. My main issue is that even though there are many posts about vertical to horizontal engines, I haven't seen any to modify to the orientation I need as the cylinder is always kept in a vertical position. However, since I need to connect both engines the way that is shown in the picture, I'm not so sure about the lubrication of the engines as they need to be sideways.
 
#4
Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the very first task on your list better be a way to adequately seal and fasten the cylinders together. When you get that worked out, the rest will be a piece of cake! If you make a spacer wide enough to insert bolts facing in opposite directions you will loose so much compression the engine will loose power and efficiency that you can't recover. If you have a practical way to join those cylinders together I would say you just won the project hands down. IMO Don't give up till we all do some brain storming and see how we can overcome this challenge!
 
#5
Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news but the very first task on your list better be a way to adequately seal and fasten the cylinders together. When you get that worked out, the rest will be a piece of cake! If you make a spacer wide enough to insert bolts facing in opposite directions you will loose so much compression the engine will loose power and efficiency that you can't recover. If you have a practical way to join those cylinders together I would say you just won the project hands down. IMO Don't give up till we all do some brain storming and see how we can overcome this challenge!
Can't over come converting a wet sump slinger lubrication system laying it's side. He'd be making a Boxer and it needs a pressurized oil lubrication system, if not a dry sump oil lubricating system. Nothing is impossible, but feasibility comes in to play.
 
#9
Thank you all for your input! In the meantime, I've been busy with the project.

I'm planning on running the engines stock and see if significant oil comes out of the breather tube. If so, the backup plan is to install a PCV Valve (like a HONDA PCV Valve I found on amazon) and block the hole that connects to the valve chamber and, therefore, the breather tube.

My main issue right now is which carb to use. I'm thinking on a PZ19 carb since the intake port is 19mm. Then, I'll get a 0.3-1.6mm (the drill size goes up 0,05mm each) and go up in size as necessary. I think it's a better option than getting a PZ20 or PZ22 since the bottleneck must be the main jet (the engine is going to be tested mainly at WOT).

Also, I'll try installing a PLX or AEM AFR kit on the exhaust. But I'm expecting some issues since the oxygen sensor is supposed to be mounted on a duct about 24'' down the exhaust, not right next to the cylinder.
 
#10
I'll share with you a few pictures.

The models are not exactly the same as the engines I have but pretty similar.
I also included an example of the intake manifold which I'll have to make. It goes straight and thorugh the shroud.
The last picture is a mockup of the engines mounted. Then they'll be connected to a dyno bench to make tests.
 

Attachments

#11
Alex, oxygen sensors need HEAT to operate, they won't even work until they get to a required minimum temperature. Having found this out with my own experience it might be a good idea to make a provision to mount the sensor 12" or 24" from the engine to find the best position for operating. My AFR meter gives bogus readings if it's too far down the tube and gets carboned up with soot.
 
#12
Alex, oxygen sensors need HEAT to operate, they won't even work until they get to a required minimum temperature. Having found this out with my own experience it might be a good idea to make a provision to mount the sensor 12" or 24" from the engine to find the best position for operating. My AFR meter gives bogus readings if it's too far down the tube and gets carboned up with soot.
My first idea was actually to solder a M18 nut on top of the muffler and mount the AFR sensor. But I'm not sure that will work, if it's not too close to the cylinder.

By the way, the kit is a PLX C6AFRG4, a gen 4 with a Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor. Or an AEM 30-4110. We're going to buy it the next days.
 
Top