Help with spark issues

#1
Tecumseh H50 615219h

Can you guys help me get this thing running.
I’ve tried everything and can’t get a spark!

Points are set at 20 thousands
Timing is correct
New condenser
New coil
New points
New carb
I spun it with plenty of RPMs and theres still no spark.
Any and all help is appreciated! IMG_9880.jpeg
 
#3
Did you test your coil…,I’ve had 2/3 bad ones lately….try different plugs? Test your condenser….lately the Tecumseh points with the white plastic thst I have bought, have had a thick film on one or both contacts….fly wheel in good shape?…checked key?.,...just some thoughts….
 
#6
Did you test your coil…,I’ve had 2/3 bad ones lately….try different plugs? Test your condenser….lately the Tecumseh points with the white plastic thst I have bought, have had a thick film on one or both contacts….fly wheel in good shape?…checked key?.,...just some thoughts….
Haven’t tested the coil or sanded the new points down yet.
New keyway, flywheel is good

thanks for all the tips
 
#9
Tecumseh H50 615219h

Can you guys help me get this thing running.
I’ve tried everything and can’t get a spark!

Points are set at 20 thousands
Timing is correct
New condenser
New coil
New points
New carb
I spun it with plenty of RPMs and theres still no spark.
Any and all help is appreciated! View attachment 320303
Never assume that a "new" part will always work properly. You may have some defective parts there. For diagnosing the problem try replacing them one at a time with the same part from another (running) engine.
Michael
 
#10
Never assume that a "new" part will always work properly. You may have some defective parts there. For diagnosing the problem try replacing them one at a time with the same part from another (running) engine.
Michael
Good advice. I’ll swap parts over.

Can I swap parts from a running hs40

coil
Points&condenser
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#12
The engine is off the bike now
While you are sanding the points completely remove the kill switch wire just for test purposes. If it's shorting through the casing and you can't see it,it wouldn't spark..also take a piece of sand paper and sand the inside of the flywheel. Also sand the face of the new coil, just incase they coated it for storage. Should also sand all the connectors and posts
 
#13
While you are sanding the points completely remove the kill switch wire just for test purposes. If it's shorting through the casing and you can't see it,it wouldn't spark..also take a piece of sand paper and sand the inside of the flywheel. Also sand the face of the new coil, just incase they coated it for storage. Should also sand all the connectors and posts
Sound advice. I’ll give that a go.
Thank you
 

Mr. Pink

Well-Known Member
#14
Also sand the face of the new coil, just incase they coated it for storage.
A few years ago, I had a no spark issue on my Briggs powered snowblower.
All the troubleshooting led to a bad coil.
I replaced the coil with a new one, still no spark.
I was not convinced that this still was not a coil issue.
After a day of mulling this over I sanded the lacquer off the armature at the spots that touch the block, and also where the heads of the mounting bolts contact.
And whatta ya know, SPARK!
I then sanded the rust off those same spots on the old coil, and once again had spark with the old coil.
 

Mr. Pink

Well-Known Member
#15
A couple of homemade tools I use for troubleshooting ignition problems.

Remove spark plug and spin engine using a 1/2" drive, 7/8" 12 point deep socket chucked into a drill using a 1/4" bolt.

A.jpg

B.jpg

This clamp fitted with conduit clips, a wire and an alligator clip grounds the plug without zapping yourself.

C.jpg
 
#17
Because im not so familar with Tecumseh coil setups on the outside of the flywheel but worst case do Briggs magnetron units fit on a Tec coil setup? They are really simple to retrofit on a briggs coil of course. Just wondered how different the Tec coils were versus Briggs in width and fitment for a unit as such. A bad coils a bad coil though i do understand that much.
 
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