how do you make a spacer to keep a torque converter out of overdrive?.

gumpit

gumpit

#41
#41
delray said:
randy, I had mention about doing that earlier on a new juggernaut unit. it would be not hard to do. just break off the back side pulley and fab a 20 series on . it might take a lathe and truing the part and tig welding it back on. kind of like having a poor mans jr dragster 340 unit. still not as good,but it would work.
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But the angle is 18 degrees on a juggernaut and on a 20 series It is 15 degrees. A 20 series with a yellow spring is what I had on my trike for a while but the driver would still slip.
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#42
#42
yes your correct randy, the inner unit(pulley) would have to be true up...if there is enough material there? and that part looks to be made out of aluminum.
 
C

cfh

Well-Known Member
#43
#43
If you want to convert a Juggernaut from series30 to series20, it is do-able. Basically you need to make a new fixed sheave. It's not impossible, but it's not easy either. It's not like converting a Comet from series 20 to 30 (or vice versa).
 
gumpit

gumpit

#44
#44
cfh said:
If you want to convert a Juggernaut from series30 to series20, it is do-able. Basically you need to make a new fixed sheave. It's not impossible, but it's not easy either. It's not like converting a Comet from series 20 to 30 (or vice versa).
Click to expand...
It’s not just the fixed sheave. The angle on the other one is different by 3 degrees. May not seem like a lot but it is in the world of symmetry.
 
C

cfh

Well-Known Member
#45
#45
I think you're mis-reading the specs.

On series20, there's a 13 degree angle on *both* sides. it's symmetric.
On series30, there's a 2.5 degree angle (basically flat) on the non-moving side.

So on a comet system, you just change the non-moving sheave, and you can go from series20 to 30 or vice versa "pretty much".
the juggernaut is potentially the same way.

here's the series20 data... note it says "symmetrical 26 degrees" (which means 13 degrees each side.)
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/comet20series_man.pdf

on the series30, it's "20.5 degrees asymmetrical." which breaks down to 2.5 degrees on the flat side and 18 degrees on the moving side.
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/comet30series_man1.pdf

now is 18 degrees versus 13 degrees a lot? well i guess. but in the case of the juggernaut, if you just re-made the non-moving sheave to be 13 degrees, it could be used as a series20 (and probably work just fine that way.)
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#46
#46
maybe this will help little. here is the difference between the two. comet 30 on the left and 20 on the right.


here is the part on the juggernaut that would need to be remachine...if there is enough material on it?
 
C

cfh

Well-Known Member
#47
#47
yup your pictures shows 13 degrees versus 18 degrees.
but you still have to deal with the 2.5 degree flat non-moving sheave.

if you get the 2.5 degrees to 13 degrees (basically a 10 degree difference), you're there. The 5 degree difference on the moving sheave will probably become less of an issue... and perhaps could be put on the lathe and quickly fixed. But making that flat non-moving sheave into 13 degrees... there's the tricky part!
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#48
#48
I mention that earlier about the the flat side. cut the 30 series off. true it up on the lathe and then fab a 20 on to it. also if a could do all this? you want to make sure your spacing would be correct before you glue it back together as a 20 series. still a lot of if's until you have it in front of you.

i'm just so glad I have the real unit(jr dragtster 340) in front of me...:scooter:
 
gumpit

gumpit

#50
#50
cfh said:
I think you're mis-reading the specs.

On series20, there's a 13 degree angle on *both* sides. it's symmetric.

now is 18 degrees versus 13 degrees a lot? well i guess. but in the case of the juggernaut, if you just re-made the non-moving sheave to be 13 degrees, it could be used as a series20 (and probably work just fine that way.)
Click to expand...

Im not seeing where you are getting 13 degrees from.
I think the angles need to be more dead on than you are giving them credit for...
 
C

cfh

Well-Known Member
#51
#51
I hear ya. this probably got lost in the other post...
here's the series20 data... note it says "symmetrical 26 degrees" (which means 13 degrees each side.)
http://www.pinrepair.com/minibikes/comet20series_man.pdf

as for the angles being dead on, you're probably right (otherwise belt wear). but i think if you got close, it would give you an opportunity to test the whole idea. then you could proceed (or not) based on that.
 
gumpit

gumpit

#52
#52
I’m wondering if the 13 to 15 degree difference from the sheave to the belt angles is to allow for compression of the belt material As it engages. I suppose as long as they are the same angles on either side so it rides evenly up and down it would work better than a 30 series anyway. At some point I will have to take the Juggernaut out of the box and look at it. I’m not sure why so many things use 30 series over 20 series other than the spring being outboard allowing the drivens to have the belt location closer to the bearing so it doesn’t cause unnecessary wear.... where they could have still run a 20 series with a reverse/30 series spring.
 
G

gasgas300

Active Member
#53
#53
Charles S said:
The Monster Moto / Mega Moto MM-B212 Pro Series had a "speed limit spacer" that was simply a ring that fit over the bronze bushing of the driver, it limited how far the driver sheaves could close, thus limiting ratio change. The width of the ring would determine how close the sheaves would get to each other. What about a gearing change (larger rear sprocket) that would allow your engine to rev higher while retaining the full ratio range of your TAV?
Click to expand...
if its top speed hes after?? u want a smaller rear sprocket not larger .
 
M

MJL

Active Member
#55
#55
Li'l Popeye said:
How about this?:
Comet part # 218006A

It reduces the travel of the weights. Can be easily adjusted, too.
Someone ever made this with aluminium weights?
Click to expand...
Have you pursued this any further? I do think you are on to something. Makes more sense than the bushing which would allow the weights to keep jamming themselves into the sheaves at high rpms, potentially getting stuck. I was thinking about threading a stock set of weights. Looks like the stock pins may be stainless.
 
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