How to remove old paint without sandblasting?
- Thread starter Sixpac440
- Start date
- Tags paint remove sandblasting
I buy the cheap knock off oven cleaner from the dollar store to clean parts. I do have my own pressure washer so I can do it at the comfort of my home shop. It works best on a hot sunny day you can set the part out and let it heat up. If I'm in a hurry or the weather doesn't agree I will use aircraft stripper but it costs more and I'm cheap.
I clean everything before I blast it just because:
A. in a cabinet it helps the media last longer
B. if I'm outside you use less media before you get to clean metal
I clean everything before I blast it just because:
A. in a cabinet it helps the media last longer
B. if I'm outside you use less media before you get to clean metal
Kevin, that is the best one I have ever used right there^^^^^
**Edit: Just make sure you get the one that has a graphic of an airplane on the (red and blue) can and the words "Klean Strip" There are some imposters out there that do not work nearly as well. This stuff is FAR better than the typical hardware store brands like Jasco.
michael
**Edit: Just make sure you get the one that has a graphic of an airplane on the (red and blue) can and the words "Klean Strip" There are some imposters out there that do not work nearly as well. This stuff is FAR better than the typical hardware store brands like Jasco.
michael
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Using the term "Aircraft Stripper" on that is a marketing ploy. In the late 70's, we used actual aircraft stripper. It looks like baby poop, and one drop flying out of the bin would cause in instant blister. Not a red mark, and a bit of a burn like the hardware store stuff, but real body-dissolving instant blisters.
I haven't found a difference between any of the paint strippers sold by ACE. I have never blasted a mini bike frame, so the 20 or so restorations over the past five years have all been with paint stripper applied with a cheap paint brush, then scrubbed with course steel wool with the stripper still on it, followed by a hosing off with degreaser and a 3M pad.
I use a black plastic drain pan, looks like a triangle, and I pour in about two cups of stripper and work from that.
I use SEMI-PASTE only. It seems to hold on the best.
I wouldn't do any of this if I planned to sand blast later. None. Zero. If I am fabricating on a painted frame, I just take the paint down with a flap brush as required.
I haven't found a difference between any of the paint strippers sold by ACE. I have never blasted a mini bike frame, so the 20 or so restorations over the past five years have all been with paint stripper applied with a cheap paint brush, then scrubbed with course steel wool with the stripper still on it, followed by a hosing off with degreaser and a 3M pad.
I use a black plastic drain pan, looks like a triangle, and I pour in about two cups of stripper and work from that.
I use SEMI-PASTE only. It seems to hold on the best.
I wouldn't do any of this if I planned to sand blast later. None. Zero. If I am fabricating on a painted frame, I just take the paint down with a flap brush as required.
A couple of weeks ago I needed to remove the paint from several parts, and spray-on chemical stripper seemed like just the thing to use. I hadn't used paint remover in a long time, so I did a bit of research first. I found that most commercial paint removers use Methylene Chloride or a variant as the primary active ingredient. Permatex, Aircraft, and Zip-Strip brands all have it at the top of the list of ingredients.
Among the stores in my neighborhood, only Permatex came in a spray bomb. Aircraft brand also comes in spray cans, but the hardware and auto parts stores around me only had the brushable type. From what I saw online, the Permatex spray-on is a smaller package than Aircraft, which seemed better for my small project.
I bought a can of Permatex at NAPA and I was ready to go. I stopped at my buddy's house on the way home to check in on his project. When I told him what I was up to, he said he'd recently stripped some paint w/Citristrip, a citrus-based product that's biodegradable and not nearly as poisonous as Methylene Chloride. He said it worked great, and smelled good, too.
This seemed like the perfect opportunity for a comparison test. Here's what I discovered:
The can of Permatex has lengthy instructions in fine print, describing its use and the safety precautions you should follow and the horrible things that can happen if you do not. I saw very similar language on the can of Aircraft stripper.
After checking to see what was downwind, I sprayed it on some parts outdoors. The paint lifted almost immediately. It's pretty stinky. I got a little on my wrist and it stung, so I washed it right off. Since the parts were small and the instructions didn't specifically say not to, I rinsed them off in my mud room sink. Quick and easy. But if I had been dealing with larger parts or larger amounts of stripper I would not have brought this into the house. I've also read elsewhere that this stuff really shouldn't go into the storm drain or sewer.
The can of Citristrip says that it's made from oranges, has no Methylene Chloride and is biodegradable. The ingredients list includes Dibasic Esters, N-Methyl 2-Pyrrolidine and hydrocarbon propellant. Though there is still strong language about using adequate ventilation and keeping it off of yourself, the warnings don't seem quite as dire as with the Permatex. It smells better, too.
I sprayed it on some parts outdoors. Unlike with the Permatex, nothing happened immediately. But the instructions say that it can take from 30 minutes to 24 hours for things to happen. I set the pieces aside and went on to other tasks. When I looked again the next morning, the paint had lifted nicely and it washed right off in the sink. This was against the recommendations, which say to let the residue dry outdoors before disposal. But the label also says clearly that it is biodegradable, so I don't feel too bad.
The bottom line is that both worked equally well in removing the old finish completely. Permatex works much faster than Citristrip if you're in a hurry. But if you don't mind waiting for it to work and want to ease your conscience just a little about the nasty sh*t you're releasing into the environment, then Citiristrip might be your choice.
Among the stores in my neighborhood, only Permatex came in a spray bomb. Aircraft brand also comes in spray cans, but the hardware and auto parts stores around me only had the brushable type. From what I saw online, the Permatex spray-on is a smaller package than Aircraft, which seemed better for my small project.
I bought a can of Permatex at NAPA and I was ready to go. I stopped at my buddy's house on the way home to check in on his project. When I told him what I was up to, he said he'd recently stripped some paint w/Citristrip, a citrus-based product that's biodegradable and not nearly as poisonous as Methylene Chloride. He said it worked great, and smelled good, too.
This seemed like the perfect opportunity for a comparison test. Here's what I discovered:
The can of Permatex has lengthy instructions in fine print, describing its use and the safety precautions you should follow and the horrible things that can happen if you do not. I saw very similar language on the can of Aircraft stripper.
After checking to see what was downwind, I sprayed it on some parts outdoors. The paint lifted almost immediately. It's pretty stinky. I got a little on my wrist and it stung, so I washed it right off. Since the parts were small and the instructions didn't specifically say not to, I rinsed them off in my mud room sink. Quick and easy. But if I had been dealing with larger parts or larger amounts of stripper I would not have brought this into the house. I've also read elsewhere that this stuff really shouldn't go into the storm drain or sewer.
The can of Citristrip says that it's made from oranges, has no Methylene Chloride and is biodegradable. The ingredients list includes Dibasic Esters, N-Methyl 2-Pyrrolidine and hydrocarbon propellant. Though there is still strong language about using adequate ventilation and keeping it off of yourself, the warnings don't seem quite as dire as with the Permatex. It smells better, too.
I sprayed it on some parts outdoors. Unlike with the Permatex, nothing happened immediately. But the instructions say that it can take from 30 minutes to 24 hours for things to happen. I set the pieces aside and went on to other tasks. When I looked again the next morning, the paint had lifted nicely and it washed right off in the sink. This was against the recommendations, which say to let the residue dry outdoors before disposal. But the label also says clearly that it is biodegradable, so I don't feel too bad.
The bottom line is that both worked equally well in removing the old finish completely. Permatex works much faster than Citristrip if you're in a hurry. But if you don't mind waiting for it to work and want to ease your conscience just a little about the nasty sh*t you're releasing into the environment, then Citiristrip might be your choice.
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OK ... its like this ...
Heald frame, factory blue was removed and there was a coat of silver and a coat of dark green.
I sprayed Walmart Premuim stripper ... let it set 15 mins ... hosed it off with a "jet" sprayer on my hose.
it loosened up some of the green top layer.
I then got some aircraft stripper, let it set 15 mins ... hosed off ...
less impressive than the premium ...
If I would have went to the carwash or used a pressure washer the result would have been no different.
I think the premium stripper left sitting 12 hours(?) would have given me a more desirable result.
As it was after 2 applications there was lots of dried paint still on the metal.
Went out in the garage today, spent 4 hours with a wire wheel on a 90 degree grinder and got 90% of the paint off ...
There is an extra layer of god knows what below the green and silver on the bottom of the mounting plate .. its white ... its sitting with a coat of goo gone on it .. we will finish it up tomorrow and get some primer on the metal.
Heald frame, factory blue was removed and there was a coat of silver and a coat of dark green.
I sprayed Walmart Premuim stripper ... let it set 15 mins ... hosed it off with a "jet" sprayer on my hose.
it loosened up some of the green top layer.
I then got some aircraft stripper, let it set 15 mins ... hosed off ...
less impressive than the premium ...
If I would have went to the carwash or used a pressure washer the result would have been no different.
I think the premium stripper left sitting 12 hours(?) would have given me a more desirable result.
As it was after 2 applications there was lots of dried paint still on the metal.
Went out in the garage today, spent 4 hours with a wire wheel on a 90 degree grinder and got 90% of the paint off ...
There is an extra layer of god knows what below the green and silver on the bottom of the mounting plate .. its white ... its sitting with a coat of goo gone on it .. we will finish it up tomorrow and get some primer on the metal.
Use Naval Jelly (at most hardwares). It works great but is very caustic. I was cleaning cabinet hinges during a kitchen remodel. I put the hinges in a gallon paint can along with a bunch of Naval Jelly. I put the lid on tight and went out to the curb with a running garden hose. I shook the crap out of the can to agitate the solution, bad idea. The lid blew off and doused my face with Naval jelly. Burned liked a SOB and I thought for sure my eyes were gone. Luckily, with the hose running right there, I doused my self and was okay. But the paint on the hinges was ALL gone.
Fred
Fred
If you have an engine machine shop with a vat that is large enough to put the frame in, that would be my suggestion. They only take steel, not non ferrous materials. It sure will spoil a guy starting out with clean parts. 
I'm in favor of the Klean-Strip brand too. I haven't tried the aircraft flavor but I'm sure it's great, probably the strongest of their many options. I used this premium version on a frame with some super tough paint that laughed in the face of my sandblaster.
I had to do 2-3 rounds of gooping it on, wait time, and scrubbing it off with a stiff wire brush but it cut through faster than the sandblaster. I then cleaned up the hard to reach or stubborn spots with the blaster, but could probably have used sandpaper or additional gel coats. Do not skimp when applying.
As others said, you MUST use thick heavy chemical grade long gloves and eye protection, a face shield is best. I'd wear long sleeves too. It is a messy process and you will sooner or later get it on your skin. I kept a bottle of clean water nearby just in case.
Pour it into a metal container when working with it. I used a couple of disposable "solo" cup bowls and within 15 minutes, the bottoms of the bowls were gone, reduced to goo. I suppose a butter tub or Tupperware might work but depends on the specific type of plastic.
I had to do 2-3 rounds of gooping it on, wait time, and scrubbing it off with a stiff wire brush but it cut through faster than the sandblaster. I then cleaned up the hard to reach or stubborn spots with the blaster, but could probably have used sandpaper or additional gel coats. Do not skimp when applying.
As others said, you MUST use thick heavy chemical grade long gloves and eye protection, a face shield is best. I'd wear long sleeves too. It is a messy process and you will sooner or later get it on your skin. I kept a bottle of clean water nearby just in case.
Pour it into a metal container when working with it. I used a couple of disposable "solo" cup bowls and within 15 minutes, the bottoms of the bowls were gone, reduced to goo. I suppose a butter tub or Tupperware might work but depends on the specific type of plastic.