HS40 governor shaft wobble fix???

markus

Well-Known Member
#1
Rebuilding an HS40, has some severe wobble on the governor shaft running through the block. Ate up both the shaft and the block pretty good. Still have alot of wobble and open area on the block hole even with a good shaft so I am planning on drilling it out and installing a bushing made out of some appropriate sized tubing.

If anyone has done this any preference to type of tubing and did you affix the bushing to the block, shaft, or since it cant go anywhere let it float?


 
#3
I am interested in this thread as well. I have a 1970 HS40 that is worn about that bad which results in oil seeping from there all the time.
Michael
 
#4
UPDATE:
My son and I had some time in the shop together today so we decided to come up with a fix for the shaft wobble in our 1970 HS40. What we came up with is relatively easy and the parts are readily available. After disassembly, we saw that our shaft hole was significantly worn in an oblong shape with much more wear up and down than side to side, very similar to the photo Marcus posted.

We went to our local Orchard Supply Hardware and purchased a section of aluminum tubing ("K & S Precision Metals # 8104 Round Aluminum Tube") that we used as a bushing. The size on the package stated 3/16" X .014". (The latter number is the wall thickness). You need a length cut to a hair less than 5/8". Don't try to use a tubing cutter to cut it to length, as you will crush the ends (we tried!). We used a small metal cut off wheel in a Dremel. Using a good precision caliper we measured the tube ID at 0.154" and the OD at 0.187". Make sure and clean up any burrs on the ID or OD of the tubing.

You will need a good-quality & SHARP 3/16" twist drill to drill out the worn shaft hole in your block for the new bushing, however, I would recommend working up to that size with a couple of smaller drills first. We used a hand-held cordless drill on high speed holding it steady, square and level to the engine block. The 3/16" drill bit we used measured exactly 0.187" (Hint: We noticed that different drill brands measured larger than others by up to .006" even though they are all sold as 3/16"- we selected the largest one we could find (.0187") which was a "Dewalt Industrial Cobalt # DWA1212").

The new bushing was a nice snug fit in the newly bored governor shaft hole, just pressing it in with our fingers. After lubing and reinserting the governor shaft it was a HUGE improvement over the previous slop of the shaft. Also, after running the engine I have no more oil leak there like I had before.
Michael
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#5
Thanks for the info criea, I was planning to go to the hardware store yesterday and cross my fingers there was some tubing still left (our good hardware store in town has decided its more beach themed home decor crap is "hardware" and whats left of the k&S rack is shoved in a dark corner slowly dwindling in stock never to be restocked again) got involved in making up some fixtures to shape some brackets on the press for Bonanzas and never got around to it. Since chances are slim the tubing will still be local you posting up the number helps in case I have to just order it online. Thank you:thumbsup:
 

MB165

Active Member
#6
this issue should be able to repair with simple hand tools/ drill press. measure out and see what available first, drill out worn hole and drive in appropriate sized brass tube, possibly need to finish ream it. maybe something from the hardware store assortment would go right in...?

this one was machine turned and pressed in, h3govbush (2).JPG

h3govbush (1).JPG
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#7
this issue should be able to repair with simple hand tools/ drill press. measure out and see what available first, drill out worn hole and drive in appropriate sized brass tube, possibly need to finish ream it. maybe something from the hardware store assortment would go right in...?

this one was machine turned and pressed in, View attachment 100949

View attachment 100950
nice :thumbsup: I did thankfully find a few pieces left at my hardware store this morning. I found some thinwall brass and spotted a thickwall piece of aluminum tubing that I had to ream out to fit the rod. I decided to try the aluminum one so I could definitly get past the oval shape on the outside of the block plus it gave me some meat to slice a few grooves on the outside of the tubing. I used a little JB weld on the outside and in the grooves and pressed it in. Only downside to this tubing is the retaining washer that goes on the rod on the inside is only about .002 wider than the tubing so I'll feel better with a wider washer there in case the bushing did come loose, so it could never work its way outward. The outside C clip seems to have more than enough spacing to be fine.

They had some flanged plastic bushings in stock but they were to sloppy of a fit to the shaft, would have been nice if they were a little tighter, just slip one in on each side with a small gap between them in the hole to retain a little lubricant.

thanks everyone :thumbsup:
 
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