HS40-Takes 50 pulls to start "HELP"
- Thread starter manchester1
- Start date
- Tags help hs40-takes pulls start
HM... if it likes to be not choked it may be too rich... But that seams like it would just get worse and worse as you pulled on it... It's probably not getting enough air..
The governor or throttle should be like maybe 1/2 way open.. The governor should hold it right around 1/2 or wide open when the engine isn't running to help allow it air, to start and accelerate up to speed... It honestly does not need to be open very far to start... About 1/4 to 1/2 way open works best from what I've noticed as all of my engines are Ungoverned Tecumseh carbs and I physically look to see where the throttle plate is before I pull it...
It may be a case of your governor is too light or not adjusted right so the throttle isn't opening up to allow the cold engine some air to breath.. Look at your throttle plate on the carb... If it is sitting dead flat on the idle speed screw.... Crank your throttle wide open until you SEE the throttle go wide open and know it's breathing.... If it starts let off obviously.. :doah:
Also check all of your intake and carb bolts and gaskets.. Sometimes the gaskets will get bad or someone will rip one messing with it before you ever owned it.. :doah:
The governor or throttle should be like maybe 1/2 way open.. The governor should hold it right around 1/2 or wide open when the engine isn't running to help allow it air, to start and accelerate up to speed... It honestly does not need to be open very far to start... About 1/4 to 1/2 way open works best from what I've noticed as all of my engines are Ungoverned Tecumseh carbs and I physically look to see where the throttle plate is before I pull it...
It may be a case of your governor is too light or not adjusted right so the throttle isn't opening up to allow the cold engine some air to breath.. Look at your throttle plate on the carb... If it is sitting dead flat on the idle speed screw.... Crank your throttle wide open until you SEE the throttle go wide open and know it's breathing.... If it starts let off obviously.. :doah:
Also check all of your intake and carb bolts and gaskets.. Sometimes the gaskets will get bad or someone will rip one messing with it before you ever owned it.. :doah:
ut:
Thats a possibilty too.. :shrug: Although they usually come pre gapped as long as it hasn't fell on the floor or something..
The governor when looking at it from the back of the motor will be all the way left when the engine is at no go... The farther the spring pulls the arm over to the right, the faster you go.. I would not adjust the arm over so far that the throttle plate can not close that way.. Usually as long as that arm has never been monkied with, it should be about right... It's the spring that needs the tweaking.. :hammer:
I would just hold the throttle wide open and it should pull the carb wide open and have the same effect.. I wouldn't mess with that arm unless it's way off..
BUT!!!!
Adjusting the governor arm itself... Thats kind of a hard one to explain I guess... Typically.... If you are looking at that arm... There is the little squared looking piece at the bottom that attaches the arm to the rest of the internal governor stuff, and has the little adjsutability screw in it....
If that square piece and the arm itself are a nice strait line of each other, The engine is trying to run too fast... They like to be tipped to the left maybe like 7 or 8 degrees..
What I do is remove the spring that pulls on the arm.. That way I get the arm doing it's own thing correctly without help of the spring trying to mess me up.. :glare:
Then I will even screw the idle speed setting screw down to super low idle like one or two complete turns JUST SO I know that the engine WILL GO all the way down PLENTY far enough, just remember to put the idle screw back to it's correct setting when you're done playing with the arm... :doah:...
But with those two things out of the way you can go on to get that arm setup right... I will loosen that screw in the arm just a little, just enough that I can move the arm if I really want to, then I rotate that square piece attached to the internals all the way to the left to dead idle setting, no pressure being exerted from the non running engine.. Make sure it is for sure the internal governor parts stopping your leftwards travel, and not just the throttle plate on the carburetor.. :hammer:
Then when you know the internal parts have came tight to each other and it will not move any more.... Turn the upper part of the arm itself slowly around until the throttle on the carburetor closes all the way.... Tighten the screw and it should be good... Manually run it open and closed a few times checking to make sure everything is traveling smooth with no binding up and stuff.. :thumbsup:
The SPRING should be ready to pull the throttle open at a moments notice.. That has adjustablility on the arm via all of the different holes.... The farther up the arm that you attach the spring, the more amount of pull you can gain on the arm, and faster you can get the engine turning... You can remove coils from the spring to make it pull harder too and help pull the throttle open just a fuzz when the engine isn't running.. but DEFINITELY KNOW for sure which hole you want the spring to attach to, AND remove one coil at a time.... Once it's too short, it's too short.... :censure:
But like I said earlier... I would just grab a handful of throttle and crank it wide open... OR however far ya have to hold it until ya have about 1/2 throttle on the carburetor... :wink:
The governor when looking at it from the back of the motor will be all the way left when the engine is at no go... The farther the spring pulls the arm over to the right, the faster you go.. I would not adjust the arm over so far that the throttle plate can not close that way.. Usually as long as that arm has never been monkied with, it should be about right... It's the spring that needs the tweaking.. :hammer:
I would just hold the throttle wide open and it should pull the carb wide open and have the same effect.. I wouldn't mess with that arm unless it's way off..
BUT!!!!
Adjusting the governor arm itself... Thats kind of a hard one to explain I guess... Typically.... If you are looking at that arm... There is the little squared looking piece at the bottom that attaches the arm to the rest of the internal governor stuff, and has the little adjsutability screw in it....
If that square piece and the arm itself are a nice strait line of each other, The engine is trying to run too fast... They like to be tipped to the left maybe like 7 or 8 degrees..
What I do is remove the spring that pulls on the arm.. That way I get the arm doing it's own thing correctly without help of the spring trying to mess me up.. :glare:
Then I will even screw the idle speed setting screw down to super low idle like one or two complete turns JUST SO I know that the engine WILL GO all the way down PLENTY far enough, just remember to put the idle screw back to it's correct setting when you're done playing with the arm... :doah:...
But with those two things out of the way you can go on to get that arm setup right... I will loosen that screw in the arm just a little, just enough that I can move the arm if I really want to, then I rotate that square piece attached to the internals all the way to the left to dead idle setting, no pressure being exerted from the non running engine.. Make sure it is for sure the internal governor parts stopping your leftwards travel, and not just the throttle plate on the carburetor.. :hammer:
Then when you know the internal parts have came tight to each other and it will not move any more.... Turn the upper part of the arm itself slowly around until the throttle on the carburetor closes all the way.... Tighten the screw and it should be good... Manually run it open and closed a few times checking to make sure everything is traveling smooth with no binding up and stuff.. :thumbsup:
The SPRING should be ready to pull the throttle open at a moments notice.. That has adjustablility on the arm via all of the different holes.... The farther up the arm that you attach the spring, the more amount of pull you can gain on the arm, and faster you can get the engine turning... You can remove coils from the spring to make it pull harder too and help pull the throttle open just a fuzz when the engine isn't running.. but DEFINITELY KNOW for sure which hole you want the spring to attach to, AND remove one coil at a time.... Once it's too short, it's too short.... :censure:
But like I said earlier... I would just grab a handful of throttle and crank it wide open... OR however far ya have to hold it until ya have about 1/2 throttle on the carburetor... :wink:
weak spark ? clean the points if it has them,you should have a nice hot blue spark. try a shot of starting fluid to see if that kicks it off. It could be a carb problem,like the float set too low. It should start right up with one or two pulls with the choke on . it will flood if you keep pulling it with the choke closed. also try holding the throttle part way open as you pull it.
1. What spark plug are you using? Needs gapped, most are not pre-gapped. s/b .030
2. Before starting, governor should hold the throttle from 1/2 to fully open. There is a procedure in the maintenance manual called the static governor adjustment. Easy to do.
3. What do the points look like if it has them? Set gap at .020
Also the possibility that the engine is worn with low compression making it hard to start.
2. Before starting, governor should hold the throttle from 1/2 to fully open. There is a procedure in the maintenance manual called the static governor adjustment. Easy to do.
3. What do the points look like if it has them? Set gap at .020
Also the possibility that the engine is worn with low compression making it hard to start.