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With a stock block, it is not the valve train that will limit you with a cam selection, it is the kick back on the recoil, and then the lifter bores. The cam I have in a Tote Gote Raptor is hotter than the Raptor cam, but the cam card I posed here on OldMiniBikes got deleted along with the build. Note that the stock Raptor cam is hotter than the stock cam. I checked that too, but no numbers to report.
The kazoo carb- I went to a later model pulsa jet because it allowed mounting on that later tank, and used the later model choke lever as opposed to the push-pull button. A Raptor carb has no choke. Sorry for skipping around here.
The Dyno 94SS is very popular and doesn't require billet lifters or strengthened lifter bores, but does require new valves so you can start fresh with lash.
Also
look at the 004 grind. Here are the
springs for it. The retaining bits are on that same page.
Dyno says you can use the 107 with no special lifter mods, but it might be one to kick back on start. For sure the 108 will kick back, and damage your hand, and cause you to go to the doctor for a sprained wrist, and sell the engine, and get of mini bikes, and move to California. But it does make a hot rod engine, if you use a Mikuni etc.
Note that these cams like more spark advance, so you're going to mess with keys or adjustable wheels.
After a few years, I am still riding the Tote Gote, and winding out the engine against the torque converter like no one's business.
Your post reminded me of this. One of my favorite quotes.